Feature Request: Allow to turn off Fan behind Extruder...

[gadgetfreak 7]

I've found that a chip lifter tool is excellent for separating JST connectors (we've replaced a number of noisy UM2 fans):

http://www.wiha.com/finland/Onlineshop/ESD-safe-tools4/279-10-Wiha-Precision-ESD-Chip-lifter

Just insert and wiggle and off it comes

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Weird, you are all talking about quiet fans and my fan is quiet when not attached to the head and lout otherwise. I wonder what's up with that.

 

[handyman 0]

well I did several things to improve noise on my print head when I received my UM2, before going to change the rear fan.

The metal holder of the lateral fans was making a noise because fans were lose, I was unable to screw them because they were over tighten , so I just hold them in place with hot glue, and it work!

I remove the fan stickers that were eccentric and that improve vibrations and noise.

Remove cables from air flow, hold them lateral with hot glue.

Then I change the rear fan as describe, just cut the cables and re solder the new fan to conserve that jst connector. You have to give attention to fan rotation when you connect he fan again, as changing polarity changes direction.

Hope this helps

 

[gr5 2,167]

My um2 fan is hard to hear. I was testing the fan noise again yesterday. I can hear it if I turn my head and point one ear towards it at about 1 meter. If I am facing the machine I can't hear the fan until about 1/2 meter distance. It is quieter than all the laptops and computers in my house. We have 4 laptops and 2 desktops used on a daily basis.

My primary computer (this one) I can hear out to about 4 meters if facing it. Farther if I turn my head.

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Can anybody please tell me WHICH connector from JST is used for the fans? I guess it's the same everywhere a fan is connected or pluged in, independent of the UM model, isn't it? But there are quite some different series from JST (PH, XH, ....)

 

[kreativgeek 0]

Replaced my middle fan with the fan from ebay (linked a bit higher). What a difference! Glad I did that :-)

 

[Blizz 53]

Might have to look into that as well. Mine is super loud. I also have a very loud side fan. They promised they would send a replacement for it because it's been rattling since I got the printer but haven't heard anything anymore...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Can anybody please tell me WHICH connector from JST is used for the fans? I guess it's the same everywhere a fan is connected or pluged in, independent of the UM model, isn't it? But there are quite some different series from JST (PH, XH, ....)

 

 

In general when you need to now details on components its easy to start looking at the design file (STEP) of the UM2

 

( https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/Assembly%20UM2%20stepfile.STEP )

 

You can open the STEP in Design Spark Mechanical, and even modify it ( using this trick > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2772-spaceclaim/page-3#entry53816 )

 

You can look into the STEP file to find the partnumber of the part you'r interested in. When you then look at the PDF of the partnumber (also on github) you can sometimes find additional info.

 

In the case of your connector question, the drawing of the fan (part 1330) does not contain this info, but if you look at the other cooling fans (B1313-ZIP-A) you'll see its a JST XHP-2 (they look the same to me...)

 

[Blizz 53]

Just ordered the fan from ebay. Curious how much that is going to give. The printer in itself is very silent, both those 2 fans... my god

 

[randyinla 14]

My fan didn't seem to be as loud as it is now when I first received my U2. Just ordered the Digi-Key fan mentioned previously in the thread. Thanks for the info everyone!

 

[cleven 4]

I just realized I have never noticed this fan engage before I read this post. I now notice it never comes on. I dont think it has ever worked....

 

[cleven 4]

turns out the fan was never going to work, they mixed up the wires from original assembly.

A quick wire swap/solder started to work.

 

[randyinla 14]

That's funny, Cleven! Good thing you found it. Wonder if you will get better prints now?

My fan came in today. It didn't have a connector, just bare wires, so I'll have to wait and solder it in when I get home.

 

[cleven 4]

It may make a difference but overall I've had high quality prints with my machine. I will let you know what difference if any I notice

A bit upsetting with the machine being wired wrong. But it is hard to notice that the fan wasn't running. I was always focused on the other two fans and setting up the print. I started to take notice when I was experimenting with the ptfe part. Started wondering why that fan wasn't coming on. I took it off brought it down to the static circuit lab lol and tested it. Then I gave it a total solder upgrade

 

That's funny, Cleven! Good thing you found it. Wonder if you will get better prints now?

My fan came in today. It didn't have a connector, just bare wires, so I'll have to wait and solder it in when I get home.

 

[cleven 4]

update on quality with fan now running, noticeable improvement in surface finish. Prob due to the stable extrusion temperature

 

[randyinla 14]

Cool, Cleven! Congratulations!

Cut the old fan's wires, trimmed the new fan's wires to the same length and soldered them in place with shrink tubing around each. Now it's hard to tell the machine is on. A barely noticeable, quiet whisper compared to the squealing noise the original fan made. SO glad I was able to replace it.

 

[Nicolinux 288]

OMG!!!

I replaced the 3rd fan and the difference is striking! I thought I had wired it incorrectly after I turned the printer on - it is that quiet. With the old fan I didn't print over night because it was very loud when the print was finished.

Ultimaker should really consider new fans. A fancy new UM2 that sounds like an old tractor can't be good for marketing

 

[pm_dude 27]

There is also a compatible fan made my the same company which is, to all intents and purposes, silent. I have this on my printer, after I accidentally destroyed the stock one:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803

Digikey won't sell to Europe. I gather the European distributor is TME.

 

Just received it. OMG what a difference. Now I'm tempted to do the same with the side fans.

 

[axsdenied 0]

There is also a compatible fan made my the same company which is, to all intents and purposes, silent. I have this on my printer, after I accidentally destroyed the stock one:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803

Digikey won't sell to Europe. I gather the European distributor is TME.

 

Illuminarti, do you have the specifications of the original UM2 fan? I am a bit suspicious how the "compatible" fan could be so much quieter while pushing the same amount of air.

The original UM2 fans (in my printer) have stickers with part number DF0301012BM-501. While I could not find the exact part number google reveals that DF0301012 is a 12V fan (last 2 digits are voltage) and the rest (BM...) only determines how fast it is spinning and hence how much air it is pushing.

See for example here:

http://www.comdall.com/en/product/31/View/80.html

(I have also found multiple Chinese websites confirming the information)

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1330_Hot-end_Cooling_Fan_5VDC_0.08A_%28x1%29/B1330-Z1P-B%20Fan%2025x25.PDF

says that the original fan is 5V, 0.08A.

So, is the original fan 5V or 12V or 12V running at 5V?

Is the part number on the sticker wrong?

Do we have any details about the airflow of the original fan?

 

[pm_dude 27]

The rear fan is a 5V fan. The side fans are 12V ones. The part number is the internal part number of Ultimaker and is not representing the used product.

You can see the specs of the UM2 parts here:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2

 

[axsdenied 0]

Ah, my bad, than you for the correction. Late night and bad light :shock:

The front fans have numbers DF0301012BM-501 while the back fan is DF0250705BU-501. The numbers looked the same last night but this morning it was a different story :smile:

I am not sure if these are the internal part numbers as the UM2 spec sheet lists part number of the back fan as "1330-Z1P-B Fan 25x25". By the way, the UM2 spec sheet is not complete, it does not list RPM, air flow, noise etc. They only give dimensions and voltage/current which is not enough to identify a correct replacement.

Anyway, back to my original though, I am not sure if the "compatible replacement" fan provides the same air flow as the original fan. Let me explain what I found out.

DF0301012BM (side fans) means:

30 - frame size of 30mm

10 - thickness of 10mm

12 -12V

B - ball bearing

M - speed of 8000 RPM (educated guess by comparing to other fans)

DF0250705BU (back fan) means:

25 - frame size of 25mm

07 - thickness of 7mm (actually this is 6.9mm as per drawing)

05 -5V

B - ball bearing

U - speed of 12000 RPM (educated guess by comparing to other fans)

12000 RPM would explain the noise levels, mine sounds like a jet engine :smile:

compatible replacement MC25060V2-000U-A99:

identical size (25x25x6.9mm)

magnetic levitating instead of ball bearings. That would make it use slightly less power and possibly be slightly quieter (if at all).

10000RPM

2.2 CFM (0.062m³/min)

If my suspicion is right, the replacement fan is 10000 RPM compared to the original 12000 RPM. While we don't have any air flow figures for the original fan, unless there has been a significant advancement in the design of fan blades, I would expect a significant reduction in the air flow over the original fan. And also a significant reduction in the noise levels as observed.

The question is if it matters if the cooling of the print head is reduced... PTFE coupler will definitely not like reduced cooling.

But before anything I need the verify the details about the air flow of the original fan. I could be very wrong...

So, does anyone here have the air flow details about the original fan? Or should I contact support?

 

[tinkergnome 927]

...

So, does anyone here have the air flow details about the original fan? Or should I contact support?

 

Did you noticed this thread?

3.0 CFM / approx. 5 m^3/h (there is also no source for this information - but perhaps you can ask twistx)

Consider using this one as a replacement: Sunon MC25100V2-A99 (16dBA)

It is 10mm height - but there is enough room - you would need longer screws - but the spec looks suitable...

 

[axsdenied 0]

I did not see that thread, thank you.

So the recommended replacement (MC25060V2-000U-A99) is performing less cooling, as I suspected. I wonder how much difference it makes?

I will look into MC25100V2-A99. Fitting it may be tricky as my heater wire goes over the fan.

 

[randyinla 14]

Illuminarti, do you have the specifications of the original UM2 fan? I am a bit suspicious how the "compatible" fan could be so much quieter while pushing the same amount of air.

 

Axsdenied: I poked and prodded my original back fan before deciding to replace it. If I warped its squareness a little bit, the noise would be significantly reduced. This lead me to believe that the squealing sound it made to be more bad bearings, or just a bad run of fans. It was NOT working as designed. The replacement fan is almost dead quiet. From what I read about the CFM of both, they are identical.

How do you determine the replacement fan is providing less cooling? The only thing I've seen you mention is RPM, which is not the only factor. you want to compare CFM Cubic Feet per Minute. Two fans running at the exact same RPM can have different CFM rating if the pitch of the fan blades are different.

I know the CFM of my original and replacement fans were both 2.2cfm and the two fans look identical when side by side.

 

[axsdenied 0]

I know the CFM of my original and replacement fans were both 2.2cfm and the two fans look identical when side by side.

 

If you look at post 47 in this thread TinkerGnome noted that the original fan was likely 3.0CFM and not 2.2CFM. Where did you get the information that the original fan was 2.2CFM?

Also consider that ball bearings or magnetic bearings only have impact on the power consumption and noise levels due to less friction. Assuming identical blade design the air output depends only on the RPM. You said yourself that the two fans look identical and we know that the original fan runs at 12000 RPM and that the new fan runs at 10000 RPM. Clearly it will be pushing out more air.