UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
I would start by putting a bit of tape on the black parts of the head to keep them from separating when you disassemble (it splits into three parts).
Next remove the fans and their bracket by removing the four screws that hold that package in place, two in each side. You can just let these hang.
Remove the four bolts and the metal parts of the head should separate from the rest of the print head.
Now you only need to remove the two screws that hold the top metal plate in place. Squeeze the whole package together tightly while undoing the two screws as the spring wants to push them apart at an angle which makes unscrewing more difficult.
From there just remove the old insulator and insert the new one making sure that it bottoms out.
When you put the four big bolts back don't tighten them quite all the way at first, leave a gap of 1-2mm. Now push down on the bowden tube so that it is fully pushed against the bottom of the teflon piece. Finally tighten up the four bolts, finger tight, not super tight. By doing this you will make sure that the bowden can't move up and down during retractions as there will be no place for it to move.
If the bowden moved down during disassembly so that it protrudes too far down just remove the red (or blue) horse shoe looking clip, push down on the round connector so that it is flush with the top of the print head and pull the bowden back up and replace the horseshoe.
Strap in for the first Cura release of 2024! This 5.7 beta release brings new material profiles as well as cloud printing for Method series printers, and introduces a powerful new way of sharing print settings using printer-agnostic project files! Also, if you want to download the cute dinosaur card holder featured below, it was specially designed for this release and can be found on Thingiverse!
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
Recommended Posts
IRobertI 520
I would start by putting a bit of tape on the black parts of the head to keep them from separating when you disassemble (it splits into three parts).
Next remove the fans and their bracket by removing the four screws that hold that package in place, two in each side. You can just let these hang.
Remove the four bolts and the metal parts of the head should separate from the rest of the print head.
Now you only need to remove the two screws that hold the top metal plate in place. Squeeze the whole package together tightly while undoing the two screws as the spring wants to push them apart at an angle which makes unscrewing more difficult.
From there just remove the old insulator and insert the new one making sure that it bottoms out.
When you put the four big bolts back don't tighten them quite all the way at first, leave a gap of 1-2mm. Now push down on the bowden tube so that it is fully pushed against the bottom of the teflon piece. Finally tighten up the four bolts, finger tight, not super tight. By doing this you will make sure that the bowden can't move up and down during retractions as there will be no place for it to move.
If the bowden moved down during disassembly so that it protrudes too far down just remove the red (or blue) horse shoe looking clip, push down on the round connector so that it is flush with the top of the print head and pull the bowden back up and replace the horseshoe.
Let me know if you need further details.
Link to post
Share on other sites