Scrap the printhead completely. Go with the UBIS hotend and the printhead I designed, or the Merlin hotend and the printhead foehnsturm designed. The stock one is OK, but it is guaranteed to fail sooner or later. I'm closing in on a year or so with 3 UM1's (one with well over 2000 printing hours) and switching out the stock hotend to an UBIS is the best upgrade I've ever made.
Also, seriously, get your set screws tight on your pulleys.
Looks really great in white! no wonder the UM2 is white.
The instructions are pretty good.
My recommendations.
-Read the comments on the wiki FIRST. before you begin the page. They will tell you the common pitfalls before you stumble upon them.
-Pay extra extra attention when plugging in the limit switch wires to the board. It seems common to mix one plug and the head will slam into one side and you'll be left scratching your head as to why the printer won't zero.
-Tighten those set screws on the gears holding the rods as tightly as humanly possible without snapping your screwdriver. -leading cause of skewed prints. And make sure you do this before you install the Print bed.
-the limit switches are soo so easy to strip. Be gentle.
Thank you Valcrow, I definately think the idea of reading comments of each page first is a good idea, have seen alot of small hints in there 
Ive seen the UBIS you guys are using and it really looks awesome, I'm envious...Scrap the printhead completely. Go with the UBIS hotend and the printhead I designed, or the Merlin hotend and the printhead foehnsturm designed. The stock one is OK, but it is guaranteed to fail sooner or later. I'm closing in on a year or so with 3 UM1's (one with well over 2000 printing hours) and switching out the stock hotend to an UBIS is the best upgrade I've ever made.
Also, seriously, get your set screws tight on your pulleys.
There are several problems for me though in regards to that...:
1. the ceramics are out of stock
2. I already invested money in a bunch of nozzles that fit the standard and tje E3D hotend
3. I live in denmark and the Danish customs and stupid post service that handles the fees, rape people financially if they buy anything from outside of the EU priced above 80 dkkr (~ 13 euros) :(
The stock head is scrapped though, I have an E3D lying, ready to go in instead.. Really curious to see if I'll run into the PLA problems that I've seen reported... regardless, I really would rather have the UBIS...
In your position I'd definitely keep an eye on the Merlin then. I haven't tried it, and though I am genuinely 100% convinced that pre-assembled/fully tested (ie UBIS) hotends being the correct choice for ultimate reliability, from a technical perspective the Merlin seems very compelling.
The thing that kinda puts me off with the Merlin is its wierd nozzles, they are like nothing ive ever seen before...
What about UBIS nozzles? can you get some copatible ones from somewhere else than printrbot?
A friend of mine might be buying a Printrbot Simple...
If he does, I can ask him to include some extra hotends and we can split shipping and customs fees which will then be tolerable...
Thanks for the input guys
Regarding the limit switches, use the initial configuration wizard in Cura. If will force you to check the switches but asking you to manually trigger each one. Then you know they are connected correctly and you won't get any missed steps growling when the head reaches the limit but the wrong switch is trigger.
If you have Cura already installed and you used it, I believe you can copy the .ini files out of the "Cura x.x.x/Cura" directory and that will cause Cura to run the first time wizard.
Regarding the limit switches, use the initial configuration wizard in Cura. If will force you to check the switches but asking you to manually trigger each one. Then you know they are connected correctly and you won't get any missed steps growling when the head reaches the limit but the wrong switch is trigger.
If you have Cura already installed and you used it, I believe you can copy the .ini files out of the "Cura x.x.x/Cura" directory and that will cause Cura to run the first time wizard.
Sounds like a great idea.. I've done a fresh reinstall of my computer since disassembling the printer, so hqve to reinstall cura anyways.
MariMakes posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker 3D printers,
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valcrow 145
Looks really great in white! no wonder the UM2 is white.
The instructions are pretty good.
My recommendations.
-Read the comments on the wiki FIRST. before you begin the page. They will tell you the common pitfalls before you stumble upon them.
-Pay extra extra attention when plugging in the limit switch wires to the board. It seems common to mix one plug and the head will slam into one side and you'll be left scratching your head as to why the printer won't zero.
-Tighten those set screws on the gears holding the rods as tightly as humanly possible without snapping your screwdriver. -leading cause of skewed prints. And make sure you do this before you install the Print bed.
-the limit switches are soo so easy to strip. Be gentle.
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