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Should I buy one Ultimaker?


temo
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Posted · Should I buy one Ultimaker?

I want to be able to print architectural models in different scales, mostly small models, but some big in parts for later assembling.

In the last month I’ve been compeering different (about 15) personal 3D printers and have narrowed it down to Ultimaker, Rapman 3.2, Glider, Glacier Steel and Felix. They are all below $2500 and come as kit or fully assembled. Some preconfigured and calibrated, some not.

My main concern with all of them is that I will be spending more time tweaking, calibrating and trying to understand the software then actually printing. I have none experience with 3d-printing or converting CAD-models to stl-files. I’m not afraid to use notepad as an editor of text files.

So what should I do, buy one under $2500(Ultimaker) and get the grip on 3D-printing, buy one $10-15K and get training and support or send all my prints to an online print company?

Hope this wasn’t too much

Yours

Temo

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    Posted · Should I buy one Ultimaker?

    I think the bigger question is going to be what will technically meet your needs. FDM (extrusion) printers can be a bit tricky with small parts and large parts can take a lot of time to print, if you also want quality..

    (you should also add a MakerGear M2 to your list..)

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    Posted · Should I buy one Ultimaker?

    Thank you!

    I don’t know really, what is small and what is big on this printer? A typical building would be 10 by 15 m, and scale down to 1: 100 this would be 10 by 15 cm (or 4 by 6 inch), wall thickness about 3 mm (or ): 1/8 inch). How would this come out in one piece with PLA or ABS, or would I have to print each wall laying face up and then glue it all together? What about the roof, would it be printable on the walls, flat or at any angle?

    Would I be better of with a printer with 2 print head’s, so one head can print support structure?

    What about a heated bed, as I understand the Ultimaker does not have one. I been reading that this may result in warping, when the plastic cool down to fast?

    I would really like to start with an entry level 3D-printer, to get the now-how.

    Yours

    Temo

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    Posted · Should I buy one Ultimaker?

    There are a couple of things you should know:

    PLA vs. ABS:

    PLA hardly tends to warp, ABS does a lot more. I prefer PLA also because it doesnt smell.

    Support structure:

    You dont need any support structure unless you are printing at >45 degree angles (recommended angle). Using a second material for support is not needed, but can be handy if you want your print to look nice. However, using PVA is a bit of a pesky thing since its quite flexible (and quite hard to print). I do know that there are prints which are made on 1 printer with loose support, so using dual head is not really needed unless you really want to see the color coming out.

    Heated bed is only needed when printing ABS. For PLA, the blue tape usually is enough to get the plastic to stick.

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    Posted · Should I buy one Ultimaker?
    PLA vs. ABS:

    PLA hardly tends to warp, ABS does a lot more. I prefer PLA also because it doesnt smell.

    PLA does not give off toxic fumes, ABS does. Very important difference for me.

    A 15x10x2cm building floor would take a few hours to print on high quality I think.

    Maybe you should have a talk with Ian from this forum, he is getting an Ultimaker for exactly the same reason.

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    Posted · Should I buy one Ultimaker?

    Hello again

    Thank you both.

    Yes I think PLA will be good for me. The model is never intended to get vet, and I’m going to use it(the printer) indoors, so to the keep the fumes down is important for me as well.

    I was not thinking of making one solid block out of it, but only print the wall and roof with a hollow body, will this take forever too, and can it be done?

    How can I get hold of Ian?

    Temo

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