ABS settings

[peter-parnes 0]

Hi, I have never really printed anything seriously with ABS on my UM2 until now (PLA not durable enough for my current model) and I am having some issues getting it to print nicely.

The settings I have currently settled on are:

260 degrees on the head.

90 degrees on the bed.

Fan 50%

95% flow.

I am printing with Ultimaker Red ABS.

What settings are you all printing ABS at?

 

[zoev89 73]

I am printing Ultimaker Black ABS on a UM original. This is what I have used sofar.

Head = 250 degrees

Bed = 130 bed first layer then 110 (I lose about 10 degrees) and I use glue and a brim

Fan = 0% later 40% if needed I do this on the controller

Flow = 100%

Speed = 40mm/s

Layerhight = 0.2

I enclosed the printer to keep the part warm (no heating the heating is provided by the bed)

I guess there is still room for improvement since the parts are usable but could be better.

 

[peter-parnes 0]

Thanks!!!

 

[wallan 0]

I use Ultimaker white ABS printing figures split up in parts with no infill. I apply ABS slurry to glass (that so far have had glue on it because of previous PLA prints:-) ).

Dont remember exact numbers but it something like:

Fans of all time.

First layer, bed and hotend at default ABS temperature.

After second layer hotend at around 230 (think I have gone even lower, I go as low as possible,as long as layers stick to each other it's ok), bed 0 (yes i turn it off), layer 0.1, shell 0.8-1.2, speed 30-50mm. If print ends into something pointy I might turn on fans.

[peter-parnes 0]

After some experimenting, I got the best result with

260 degrees on the head.

100 degrees on the bed.

Fan 50%

95% flow

 

Pretty ok but it smells too much

 

[eldrick 65]

If it gives off nasty fumes, 260C is too hot.

 

[peter-parnes 0]

I found that it smells badly at lower temps as well?!

 

[selmo 0]

I find the smell varies by brand and color more than temperature. I print IC3D's ABS at 230-245'C with the bed at 100'C-110'C, 107% flow, and fan at 0-100% depending on how much overhang / thin walls / bulk the part has (usually stay in the 20-60% range). On the bed: just glue stick, no slurry Retraction at 3mm at 35mm/s. I can print at over 15mm^3/s without under-extrusion.

 

[sopmod03 0]

Ok, seeing all these different settings, I'm using Ultimaker ABS black on the Ultimaker 2 extended with glue on the bed and still the material is not sticking to the bed. It's peeling up.

My settings:

Print temp: 250C

Bed temp: 110C

Fans: 0%

Flow: I have not adjusted.

The setting for Print temp and bed temp are from the fbrc8 support analyst. Any other suggestions wouls be helpful, as this is my time using a 3D printer.

[cloakfiend 995]

Glue doesnt work with ABS, you need to use ABS juice. and apply it cold. and the glass should be cold too. I mean stone cold not warm, otherwise the bond is not strong enough due to the juice not hardening enough before its re-heated during printing.

Edited June 19, 2015 by Guest

[sopmod03 0]

Glue doesnt work with ABS, you need to use ABS juice. and apply it cold. and the glass should be cold too.

 

Never heard of it. Where can I get it?

[cloakfiend 995]

you make it. from acetone and ABS filament. Its the only way it will stick. Google it. but dont make it too thin or too thick. it needs to be runny and waterlike when you are applying it. everyone has different methods of applying it. i just pour it on a tissue and rub it on the glass tring not to overlap the last bit so no buliding up any layers.

P.S. you want to be able to see a hint of the colour of the abs you are thinning in the juice when you wipe it on the glass, otherwise its to thin.

Edited June 19, 2015 by Guest

[sopmod03 0]

you make it. from acetone and ABS filament. Its the only way it will stick. Google it. but dont make it too thin or too thick. it needs to be runny and waterlike when you are applying it. everyone has different methods of applying it. i just pour it on a tissue and rub it on the glass tring not to overlap the last bit so no buliding up any layers.

 

Ok, thanks.

[cloakfiend 995]

And its very easy to clean off as well, just use fairy washing up liquid (or maybe any washing up liquid?), let it sit for a minute or two and its just wipes right off with water no effort just a bit of repeated light wiping. also apparently print with brim. I dont print ABS anymore so im not that well versed, but it worked for me when i did.

Edited June 19, 2015 by Guest

[gholland 2]

I recently purchased the UM2 Ext+

I've tried every combination I can come up with, and every suggestion here, and yet every time I try to print ABS (IC3D) it comes up off the bed. it will typically stay stuck to the bed, but somewhere around 20 layers it starts coming up.

I've ordered some Ultimaker ABS and I hope this works better.

The IC3D ABS, from what I can tell is some quality filament, however, I cannot get it to work.

Anyone else having such issues?

[izzy 33]

What adhesive are you using on the bed?

I've not printed ABS yet but I think you need to coat the bed with a solution of acatone and ABS for the print to adhere to.

[gholland 2]

Well I've tried; ABS Juice, Glue, and Hairspray. When none of these worked, I then tried combinations .. still nothing.

I had ordered some Ultimaker ABS and got that in today. I am printing with their ABS (White), default settings, and using hairspray and it appears to be working. The print has 5 minutes left and looks great.

The IC3D ABS looks to a really nice filament, however, if you cannot get it to print it's useless. I contacted them yesterday, asking them for help, but have yet to hear back.

[izzy 33]

Let me know your settings and put up a photo, I want to try some abs a bit later, will be interested in what you succeeded with glueing onto the platform. Good luck with it.

[Wisar 86]

Well I've tried; ABS Juice, Glue, and Hairspray.  When none of these worked, I then tried combinations .. still nothing.

I had ordered some Ultimaker ABS and got that in today.  I am printing with their ABS (White), default settings, and using hairspray and it appears to be working.  The print has 5 minutes left and looks great.

The IC3D ABS looks to a really nice filament, however, if you cannot get it to print it's useless.  I contacted them yesterday, asking them for help, but have yet to hear back.

 

I would be surprised if a different filament makes a huge difference but will be interested to hear your result.

I have struggled with ABS adhering as well and my solution has been the following:

1st. Enclose the printer. My environment is drafty and somewhat cool and ABS hates this. Here is the cover that I now have.

2nd. I bought an extra piece of glass for the build platform and keep it covered with Klapton tape. I know this is a pain but it is part of the solution. You can get 150mm wide rolls from China and once you have done it a couple of times application is actually pretty easy.

3rd. Very (very) light layer of abs goop.

4th. Finally, and a lot of people hate this as well, but if the bottom surface of the print it non critical, I will use a raft. I find that without the raft the next step is essential but can lead to damage to the tape.

5th. If you are not using a raft then you have to lay down the first layer of plastic with enough pressure to make a good adhesive! I tune the platform using the piece of paper method and with the nozzle pressing enough on the paper that I can feel a little resistance. I then watch the first layer extrude and make some adjustment then if needed. Use extra startup loops a little ways from the part to give your self time.

6th. I keep the build platform at 110c the entire time and I print both ABS and PLA at the very lowest temperatures that I can...this takes experimentation and can vary from filament to filament. This actually does not help with adhesion but I mention it more as an ABS technique that seems to be different than what I read above.

Good luck!

[ua4192 0]

Hi all.

I am also new in printing with ABS.

My question is more simple.

I have a UM2 Extended. Could anybody share his UM profile for printing with ABS?

I first started with PLA and after some small tuning I got very good results without any modification in my UM2E, but when I switched to ABS the nightmare started.

First problems with bed adhesion, by the way, it was solved just by using a BRIM and HAIR SPRAY.

About ABS print quality, I have been seing in many forums that the max quality that I can get in UM is just 0.2mm in layer height, is that right?

I have been reading many UM2 improvements to get better results as:

- Print a improved version of feeder

- Print Bearing Spool and Bearing Guide

- Make a enclousure for UM to take dust and temperature under control

- Changes in the extrusor

I think it could be a good idea if the more expert guys could share his UM profile. It is very easy with cura. We could add the following info:

- UM model

- Cura version

- Filament Material

- Nozzle diameter

- UM changes from fabric (feeder, extrusor, enclousure, dust filters, etc) It would be nice if you could give references about these changes (URL where this change was extracted or some reference)

- Other comments: small changes depending the color of the material.

Of course if somebody thinks I am missing anything, please don't hesitate to add more points.

: )

In this way, anybody would be able to print wihout having to face the same difficulties.

This would be really nice and save a lot of time and money to non expert people.

Thanks in advance to any people who want to share his knowledge in this way. Mabe we could create a new section for sharing these profiles.

Any remark will be appreciated.

Best regards

 

 

Well I've tried; ABS Juice, Glue, and Hairspray.  When none of these worked, I then tried combinations .. still nothing.

I had ordered some Ultimaker ABS and got that in today.  I am printing with their ABS (White), default settings, and using hairspray and it appears to be working.  The print has 5 minutes left and looks great.

The IC3D ABS looks to a really nice filament, however, if you cannot get it to print it's useless.  I contacted them yesterday, asking them for help, but have yet to hear back.

 

I would be surprised if a different filament makes a huge difference but will be interested to hear your result.

I have struggled with ABS adhering as well and my solution has been the following:

1st.  Enclose the printer.  My environment is drafty and somewhat cool and ABS hates this.  Here is the cover that I  now have.

2nd. I bought an extra piece of glass for the build platform and keep it covered with Klapton tape.  I know this is a pain but it is part of the solution.   You can get 150mm wide rolls from China and once you have done it a couple of times application is actually pretty easy.

3rd. Very (very) light layer of abs goop.  

4th. Finally, and a lot of people hate this as well, but if the bottom surface of the print it non critical, I will use a raft.  I find that without the raft the next step is essential but can lead to damage to the tape.

5th.  If you are not using a raft then you have to lay down the first layer of plastic with enough pressure to make a good adhesive!  I tune the platform using the piece of paper method and with the nozzle pressing enough on the paper that I can feel a little resistance.  I then watch the first layer extrude and make some adjustment then if needed.  Use extra startup loops a little ways from the part to give your self time.

6th.  I keep the build platform at 110c the entire time and I print both ABS and PLA at the very lowest temperatures that I can...this takes experimentation and can vary from filament to filament.  This actually does not help with adhesion but I mention it more as an ABS technique that seems to be different than what I read above.

Good luck!

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Have you checked out our latest materials Schooling blog?

[gholland 2]

 

Well I've tried; ABS Juice, Glue, and Hairspray.  When none of these worked, I then tried combinations .. still nothing.

Thanks for the input. I've yet to have luck with ABS ... I've tried the IC3D and Ultimaker brands. Out of a dozen tries I got one small piece to print properly.

I did receive a reply back from IC3D and they suggested I buy the Klapton tape which should be here today. They also told me to keep my temperatures hight and print the first layer at a reduce speed in order to ensure adhesion.

[gholland 2]

Have you checked out our latest materials Schooling blog?

 

Yes I have, thanks

[SandervG 1,521]

Have you already tried the kapton tape?

Usually, if you print around 50mm/s with 90ºC bed temp you should have sufficient adhesion.

Good luck!

[Wisar 86]

Here are my profiles and sample Marvins...100 micron resolution. Printed on Klapton tape. Profiles are for S3D but are human readable for settings.

http://raspberrypirobot.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/tale-of-two-marvins.html

Will