Ultimaker dead after installing heated bed

[tommyph1208 55]

Tommyph, regarding the ulticontroller, try swapping the cables. where they connect to the controller shield.

 

If that doesn't work, you might have not selected something correctly in Marlin Builder. To get back to a known working condition, flash the Ultimaker supplied firmware using the second method but selecting MarlinUltimaker-250000.hex in the resources\firmware subdirectory of the Cura installation directory. This will disable the heated bed but you can run through the instructions again or examine the config files in detail and hand edit.

 

With this known good firmware, you should be able to get the controller working again but you might need to try the cables in both possible combinations. Having hacked the crap out of my printer and misconnecting these cables way too many times, I finally marked which cable goes in which socket.

 

Regarding how I did it, yes, I tweaked the config files and uploaded via the Arduino IDE. I would just tell you the changes to make but I have merged upstream Marlin changes, have a lot of other customizations in it for a Z probe and I'm using a SSR running the bed in non bang-bang mode (which won't work with a normal mechanical relay)..

 

Alright, thanks... Ill try it in the morning I was actually aware that placing the cables wrong can cause this problem, and I think I tried it both ways, but will check again.

I have an SSR for my HB too, wasn't sure it would work in anything but Bang Bang mode, but sounds like it from what you tell?

[anon4321 16]

Tommyph,

 

I think to make the changes by hand, get the source from:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/archive/Marlin_v1.zip

Find this line in Configuration.h and make sure the value is 1 for the

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

If you have an SSR, you can enable PID mode for the bed by uncommenting this line (remove the leading //:

//#define PIDTEMPBED

Then you will need to use autotune to get a better set of PID parameters for the bed.

Go into Cura, go to File -> Preferences and change the Printing window type to Pronterface UI and click OK. Now go to File-> Print. In the text box on the lower right, you can enter GCODE which is sent directly to the printer. Enter this command exactly as shown:

M303 E-1 S70 C8

(change the value of S70 to be the temperature at which you will normally use the bed. S70 is 70C S60 would be 60C etc).

The printer will heat the bed up to the selected temperature and then run through 8 cycles (the C8 parameter).

Once the cycles are done, it will output a line saying something like use the last reported values. Do this by changing the P I and D values to the following command to those reported:

M304 P1 I2 D3

Finally save the firmware settings by issuing:

M500

or you can "burn" them in the firmware by editing Configuration.h and finding and changing these lines (the ones that start with #define DEFAULT_ ignore the ones with begin with //):

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)

//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)

#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00

#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023

#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

 

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)

//from pidautotune

// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1

// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41

// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

 

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.

#endif // PIDTEMPBED

 

Now when the bed reaches the set temperature, the PID mode will quickly pulse the power to the bed like 5 times a second and the temperature will be maintained very accurately.

Make sure that you reconfigure Cura so that it allows you to control the bed by going to the Machine -> Machine Settings and checking the Heated Bed item. This will not only enable an input for the bed temp, but the Pronterface UI in the printing dialog will also graph the bed temperature. in addition to the nozzle temp.

More info on PID autotune here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

 

[tommyph1208 55]

Just wanted to say: It works! Thanks largely to anon4321, so thank you

I first reinstalled the default marlin without HB via Cura, to get the UltiController back in order.

I then went over my modified version of the marlin_v1 again, and found that it had the: "#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER" line, commented out...

Adding it back in fixed the UltiController isssue...

I then reuploaded the custom marlin via Arduino IDE, and it works, registers the bed etc.

One thing that worries me a bit is that this marlin doesn't seem to have a temp error function for the bed... When I unplug the thermistor frm the board, the UltiController just reads 0 degrees, but no warning... This leads me to think that if it bu accident got unplugged while the printer and bed is on, it would just keep heating on the bed, which would get very hot...

I have not tested it yet, since I actually still need to wire up the bed with the SSR....

And after that, of course go through the PID adjustment that anon4321 generously provided a guide for

Right now I'm actually messing with doubling the x/y steps/mm. in the firmware and installing Polulu DRV8825 stepsticks running 1/32 microstepping, I find adjusting the current to be a right bitch...

[fons 0]

Add some more photos of the wires where they change colors and where you have added junctions. I have the same heated bed. The two sensor wires on the connector on the bed are the middle pair but the colors of the wires on my bed are completely different. Make sure the two center wires are what you have connected to the two outer pins on the sensor input.

For now, you should disconnect power to the bed and the lines to the relay until you get the temperature reading correctly.

When you power the printer on, the bed should read around room temp / 21C.

EDIT:

Resistors aren't polarized so they can be connected in either direction. The resistor looks correct.

Also, I looked closer at the wring from the heated bed output to the relay and it looks correct. The control side of the relay is polarized and the way you have it connected is correct.

Does the LED on the relay light up when you try to preheat the bed?

 

Hi Anon 4321,

I was away longer than expected, but when I got back immediately continued as you said , disconnected the power and found out that the sensor on the bottom of the heated bed was only soldered at one side (by gently pushing the temperature was displayed on the control display . When I soldered the sensor, I could finally start printing, thank you so much !

Greetings,

Fons .

 

[thirty6 3]

Sorry

Got to add a dumb question as i am having the same problem with the heated bed, what is a SSR?

 

[thirty6 3]

Also i have changed downloaded the Marlin zip

and changed "Configuration.h and make sure the value is 1 for the

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1"

 

re uploaded it via Arduino IDE

 

and now i have a max temp error.

 

[gr5 2,167]

@thirty6

SSR = solid state relay

Did your heated bed *ever* work?

Did you solder in the 4.7K resistor?

 

[gr5 2,167]

When i turn the printer on the heated bed disappears it just shows the temp of the extruder, turn the ultimaker back off and the temp of the heated bed reappears.

 

WTF? Okay - well I assume you have a USB cable powering the Arduino when the UM is "off"?

If so then that would imply that the 12V or 19V power is somehow getting into the sensor. I suspect you wired it wrong. Or maybe your heated bed is at 12V or 19V and it's shorted to the sensor.

I would measure the voltage from ground to each side of the 100k resistor with power on and off. It should always be between 0V and 5V. But I suspect you will see something over 5V when you power on the UM.

 

[thirty6 3]

Hi Gr5

Yes it used to work fine and yes i did install the resistor.

With a usb cable attached to the printer with the ultimaker powered off the heated bed shows a temperature of 80 degrees on the ulticontroller and in the ultimaker pronterface UI. When i power it on the temperature goes to zero on the ulticontroller and disappears out of the pronterface UI.

Thanks for the info, i also suspect a short as i have had to replace the stepper drivers and the arduino as it also stopped responding.

I will take some measurements and report back.

 

[thirty6 3]

Did the tests and something was not right as I was not getting consistent readings.

Unmounted the board, removed all the connections and rechecked the resistor and it did not feel right so i have re soldered it and now all is good.

It becomes so much easier when you know what results you should get when testing.

Thanks George without people like you i would have quit and bought an Makerbot!!