Nozzle / Flip Back Problem

[mnis 11]

Ich weiß nicht genau ab wann Du hier persönliche Nachrichten nutzen kannst. Dann hätten wir schon eher in näheren Kontakt treten können. Grob geschätzt erfordert es vielleicht 15 bis 20 Minuten via Telefon solche Dinge ausreichend abzuhandeln.

Grundsätzlich müssen Temperatur und Geschwindigkeit zueinander harmonieren. 230 Grad ist allgemein für PLA schon sehr hoch. Beachte dazu bitte auch die leider nicht immer vorhandenen Temperaturempfehlungen auf dem Verbrauchsmaterial. Nicht jedes Material darf überhaupt oberhalb einer bestimmten Temperaturvorgabe gefahren werden. Das hat sehr viel mit den Farbpigmenten und weiteren Bestandteilen des Filaments zu tun, PLA ist leider nicht gleich PLA. Mit steigender Temperatur, ohne dabei auch die Druckgeschwindigkeit zu erhöhen, werden existente Probleme verschlimmert. Wir wollen das Filament ja schmelzen, verflüssigen und nicht etwa verbrennen.

Das Ausbrennen des Heizblocks ist mit einem Sturmfeuerzeug / Flammbierer oder Lötkolben eine recht einfache Angelegenheit. Bei korrekter Anwendung ist es eine effektive Methode. Es besteht aber bei unvorsichtiger Handhabe ein großes Risiko Hautverbrennungen zu erleiden.

Es gibt neben dem Ausbrennen auch sanftere Düsenreinigungs-Methoden die eine Zerlegung des Druckkopfes nicht zwingend erforderlich machen, nur klappt es nicht immer reibungslos, und manchmal müssen diese Methoden mehrmals hintereinander ausgeführt werden. Du hast es ja bereits versucht und eventuell geht es nur noch um äußere Verunreinigungen nahe der Düsenöffnung.

Deinem Bild vom HotEnd nach zu urteilen würde ich es aber wie nachfolgend beschrieben machen:

Es gibt zwei Kabel in kleinen Kartuschen im Heizblock endend, Temperatur-Sensor und Heizelement. Diese beiden Kabel sind sehr empfindlich und müssen mit ihren Kartuschen zuerst vorsichtig aus dem Heizblock gezogen werden, aber keinesfalls Gewalt dabei anwenden (...nur vorsichtig drehen / ziehen). Mit einer kleinen Schnabelzange sollte es gut gehen. Dann erhitzt Du den Heizblock so lange bis alle PLA-Reste verbrannt sind. Solltest Du einen einstellbaren Lötkolben besitzen, dann nimm den Heizblock des UM2´s und stülpe dessen größte Öffnung über die Lötspitze. Halte alles senkrecht (Heizblock oben und Lötkolben unten) während des Heizvorgangs. Eine Temperatur zwischen 275 und 325 Grad müsste gut funktionieren. Heize so lange bis keine Blasen- Rauch-Entwicklung mehr erkennbar ist. Danach Erst mal alles schön abkühlen lassen. Im Anschluss benötigst Du einen kleinen und bestenfalls nagelneuen 3mm Bohrer ohne Maschine. Mit dem Bohrer kratzt Du vorsichtig manuell Verbrennungsrückstände aus der Heizkammer bis alles sauber genug erscheint, mache gleichzeitig Dreh- und Zieh-Bewegungen mit dem Bohrer. Es folgt das Ausblasen mit Druckluft, es geht aber auch mittels mehrmaligem Hineinpusten. Zu guter Letzt musst Du überprüfen ob die Düsenöffnung auch frei ist. Halte den oberen Bereich mit dem Gewinde gegen das Licht, es sollte deutlich erkennbar aus der Düsenspitze herausscheinen. Wenn es nicht so ist, dann kaufe Dir (...oder bitte Deinen Hausarzt darum) Injektionsnadeln in der Größe 20 (0.42x19mm). Damit kann man zwischendurch sehr gut Teilverstopfungen lösen. Alternativ funktioniert es auch mit einem einzelnen Drähtchen von einer Messing- oder eher ungern von einer Stahl-Bürste.

Wieder im Bezug zu Deinem Foto vom HotEnd: Du benötigst eventuell eine kleine Messing-Bürste (...keine Stahlbürste, diese würde das Messing-HotEnd beschädigen) für die äußere Reinigung der Düse. Es gibt so kleine Bürsten zum Beispiel für die Zündkerzen-Reinigung. Alternativ versuche die äußeren Verunreinigungen abzukratzen, das verwendete Werkzeugmaterial darf aber keinesfalls härter als Messing sein.

Markus

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi,

erst mal hab wieder mal vielen Dank!

Das mit der Temperatur stimmt vollkommen was du sagst.

Ich hab die nur erhöht um die Anzahl der Löcher in meinem Druck zu minimieren.

Durch die höhere Viskosität läuft mehr nach und die Löcher Bildung wird so verringert.. Ist zumindest mein Gefühl...

Aber das funktioniert seit heute morgen auch nicht mehr.

Die besten Ergebnisse hatte ich auch bei 210°C, da will ich ja auch wieder hin =)

Ich probiere heute oder morgen das Ganze dann mal raus zu brennen.

Melde mich dann spätestens danach wieder.

Grüße

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi,

sorry for the late reply, but I had to watch Soccer =)

I did the cleaning now 2 times in combination with the atomic nozzle cleaner.

Now the Flip Back occurs every 5 to 10 minutes.

Leaving some hole every time it occurs.....

Should I maybe try a new nozzle or any other Ideas ?

Thanks in Advantage.

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Hi Sebizzle,

First of all, congratulations on the worldcup!

I am sorry to hear you are experiencing troubles with your Ultimaker.

Could you also upload some pictures of the prints you are making?

Usually by analyzing the print it can give us a lot of information.

And can you also inform me what you mean by file the nozzle?

What tools have you used?

Right now I do not know what you have done, but I can imagine it could also have damaged your Ultimaker.

If you are in need of a new nozzle, you can also contact our sales team via http://support.ultimaker.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit http://support.ultimaker.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit.

As for documentation, we have a FAQ and Troubleshooting guide on https://www.ultimaker.com/pages/support/faq

If you find some specific information missing, feel free to let us know.

Have you also made modifications to the feeder?

Or what did you try to make it extrude better?

Looking forward hearing from you, and get you to reliable printing asap

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi Sander,

Thanks very much for that.

Could you please allow me to upload Pictures to the Ultimaker Forum?

Till that I uploaded the Picture on my Blog:

http://www.maintain-under-the-radar.org/images/Ultimaker/0907/Holes_in_Wall.jpg

The Problem is that when Flip Back occurs, the Line of Filament is not solid. Because not enough Material comes out of the Nozzle.

So when the Line and Flip Back occur at the same time, you can look through that part of Filament that has just been placed.

Yes I can sorry for that =) Google told me that’s what I meant

I used something like this to clean the inside:

https://www.igo3d.com/de/3d-printer-diamond-files-kit.html

And I agree with you I guess it was not "Best Practice". And thats exactly what I'm missing.

I've read this in the Forum so I thought couldn't get worse. And done it.

I already ordered a new Nozzle, but it was the wrong one.

My Girlfriend tried to contact sales team to send it back and get the right one, but no reply since some days so far....

Till now there are no modification to the feeder except for new screws, your tool unfortunately killed the old ones.

Should I try another Feeder?

Thanks for your help Sanders I'm really struggling on this one....

 

[sebizzle 0]

Sorry take it Back, yes you have a Best Practice.

Since when are there Pictures to see ? At the end of my Troubleshooting I only looked here for fresh Info.

For me not being familiar with your product, just plain text holds a bunch of possible mistakes.

I nearly crushed the little white thing between the Nozzle and the Extruder....

So again thanks for your help

 

[sebizzle 0]

Again sorry, I didn't read it completely....

to make the extrusion better, I tried the following

- Play with the screw on the feeder

- Printed and assembled a different feeder but again disassembled it

- Tried different temperatures with different PLA Resellers

- Tried different Settings in Cura

- Restore to Manufacturer Settings

- Different Heights of Build plate

- Different Temperatures

- Different Models

- Different Print Speed Settings (Flip Back occurs even with 10mm/s)

- Different Retraction Settings (Corners are not clean)

- New Firmware Updates

- Cleaned the Nozzle from the inside with the files

- Atomic Nozzle Cleaner

- Solution from MNIS

Actual Current Cura Settings:

Layer Height 0.2

Shell Thickness 0.8

Bottom Thickness 0.6

Fill Density 20

Print Speed 25

That should be it =)

The new Firmware is really a big improvement to me. I like the new Start of Print Jobs.

And movement of the axis feels improved (can't prove it it's just a feeling).

 

[mnis 11]

Hi Sebizzle

Vielleicht machst Du mal eine Nahaufnahme von Deinem ColdEnd (Weißes Teflon Teil).

Besonders interessant ist dabei das Innere vom unteren Auslass. Bei mir war es bereits bei der ersten Düsenverstopfung innen verengt / deformiert.

Markus

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi,

alles klar ich baus morgen mal aus.

Danke und Grüße

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi Sanders,

just talked to my girlfriend.

We orderd 2 Nozzles from your Site, to replace my broken one.

Unfortunately my Girlfriend didn't recognize, that you only have parts for the Ultimaker 1.

So we got the wrong Nozzles....

On July the 8th she asked sales team for help to change to ultimaker 2 nozzles, so far no reply.....

But as I read in other threads this is not unusual.

I really did my best bevor complaining about all that stuff that goes wrong.

 

 

[sebizzle 0]

HI,

sorry again for the long time it took to reply.

First of all after nearly 3 Weeks my inquiry at Utlimaker Sales was handled and I got a Reply.

The other sad thing except for the waiting time is, I only get a Voucher.....

But no more complaining about Ultimaker Support.... it is as it is.....

Second I didn't manage to get the white part out of the extruder!

Don't know what's going on ther but I was only succesfull in ramming the screwdriver through my Finger =)

So I made some pictures from the Outside.

http://www.maintain-under-the-radar.org/images/Ultimaker/2107/Bottom_View.jpg

http://www.maintain-under-the-radar.org/images/Ultimaker/2107/TOP_View.jpg

Is this also helpfull ?

Unfortunelty I'm still not able to upload picture to my profile.....

Maybe finally someone can unlock me so that I can like other posts and most of all the Post of the People that helped me.

Greetings

@MNIS:

Hi und sorry für die Wartezeit... =(

Konnte nichts an dem weißen Ding feststellen, sah alles normal aus.

Nur ganz oben am Einlass vom Filament ist eine kleine Delle aber die dürfte ja nichts ausmachen.

Danke dir für deine Hilfe nochmals vielmals

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Hi Sebizzle,

Thank you for your post.

I am sorry to hear you were not happy with the offer of a voucher.

It gives you the chance to buy the correct part with the same money, why is that not satisfying?

I see a big brim in the teflon part on your first picture. That can lead to under extrusion.

Have you tried increasing the temperature a little bit?

Can you tell me a little bit more about the profile you are printing with now a days?

(temperature / speed / layer height)

btw: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4525-how-to-upload-an-image-to-the-forum/ you can see how to upload pictures to the forum.

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi Sander,

really don't wanna be an annoying customer.

Just thinking a Mail took over 2 Weeks to get answered, makes me not wanna deal with your sales team anymore. And my Mails to your Support for Troubleshooting took the same time to proceed.

So let's just leave it like that, guess at the moment I'm not to positive when it comes to Ultimaker Support.

You answering my Posts is the first good news from Ultimaker Support=)

Not an easy job you have =)

The Teflon Part is the white Thing in between right ?

With Brim you mean the black stuff right ?

Shell I try to get rid of it ?

Yes like I wrote I tried to increase the temperature.

But that destroys the Quality of my prints.

You can have a good look at the results on one of my first posts:

When printing with 230 it looks like this:

http://www.maintain-under-the-radar.org/images/Ultimaker/Bad_Corners_230_Celsius_NR1.jpg

http://www.maintain-under-the-radar.org/images/Ultimaker/Bad_Corners_230_Celsius_NR2.jpg

But with lower temperatures than 230 holes start to appear at the Filament Lines.

Even printing with 10mm/s results in flip backs. They occur like every 5Minutes.

I also tried different Filaments.

I figured out this technique is called cold fusion preventions.

Is there any possibility to turn off this Function ?

Cura Settings are still the same:

Layer Height 0.2

Shell Thickness 0.8

Bottom Thickness 0.6

Fill Density 20

Print Speed 25

Thanks for making me a member, I know how to upload pictures but wasn't allowed, because of validating.

And thanks for your Help!

Greetings

 

[SandervG 1,521]

really don't wanna be an annoying customer.

Just thinking a Mail took over 2 Weeks to get answered, makes me not wanna deal with your sales team anymore. And my Mails to your Support for Troubleshooting took the same time to proceed.

So let's just leave it like that, guess at the moment I'm not to positive when it comes to Ultimaker Support.

You answering my Posts is the first good news from Ultimaker Support=)

Not an easy job you have =)

If the response time is too slow, you have the right to complain or at least mention it to me.

Only a few months ago we doubled our team but it is already showing that we need to grow more.

We will need to start looking for a bigger team again!

 

The Teflon Part is the white Thing in between right ?

With Brim you mean the black stuff right ?

Shell I try to get rid of it ?

Yes & no. The white part is the teflon part indeed. But inside is a brim, like a damaged wall/edge?

It should be clean. In it should rest the bowden tube, but the brim is preventing it to go fully in.

And maybe even create more friction for the passing filament.

 

Looking at the pictures it doesn't seem you have a lot of underextrusion, but you are experiencing stringing?

Have you tried increasing speed to 40 or 50mm/s?

 

(fill density can be set lower, to like 10 and your print is still very strong).

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi Sander,

thanks for your quick reply.

Okay I undestood what the Teflon Part is.

What you want me to do with that ?

Shell I try to clean it ?

No at the Pictures there is no underextrusion because im Printing with higher temperatures than 230...

And because of that the Print looks shady because Retraction isn't working and so an.

Like I wrote I had to that because otherwise there would be holes all over the place.

And yes I tried printing with speed above 30mm/s but again holes all over the place.

Greetings.

 

[sebizzle 0]

Hi,

so till now again no reply from your sales team according to a teflon part instead of a new Nozzle.

And from your Side the same Thing! More people don't seem to solve your problem!

My lady gave me the advice to sell the machine.

On the one hand no one seems to have time to help me and on the other spare parts can only be bought if you have like 3 weeks time to wait for it and the nervs.

What do you expect your customers to do in a situation like this ?

Buying a Product for 2000€ thats not working correctly and then having that much trouble with your support !?

I will sell my machine theres no way that I will continue the odysee with Ultimaker support.

Even when you're product is good when it's acutally working your way of dealing with customers is really the badest I've seen.

So you can close the Thread!!

I'm really disappointed in your Team, Product and everything else, just wanna get rid of the machine and don't wanna argue with my lady about wasted money and bad dessisions!!