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Hey everyone. Have I found a bug?

 

Firstly, love the firmware, it's amazing.

 

When babystepping Z, let's say to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, I then use the store command, but when I do the next print, the gap is bigger! I haven't tried to measure it, but I think the adjustment is being stored in the wrong direction, if that makes sense. Anybody else seen this?

 

Cheers, and thank you for the wonderful firmware, I couldn't be without it now.

 

Matt.

 

 

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52 minutes ago, purps said:

When babystepping Z, let's say to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, I then use the store command, but when I do the next print, the gap is bigger! I haven't tried to measure it, but I think the adjustment is being stored in the wrong direction, if that makes sense. Anybody else seen this?

 

Which version do you use? I think this was corrected / changed for V17.10:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/commit/8e22b1c50520e8f3ea8509d6f94422c9b1e514fa

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11 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:

 

Which version do you use? I think this was corrected / changed for V17.10:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/commit/8e22b1c50520e8f3ea8509d6f94422c9b1e514fa

 

I'm really sorry, I didn't find that via Google. I'm on V17.02. So it's fixed! Thank you very much for this and all you do for the community.

 

Cheers,
Matt.

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I have a problem with my printer. It pauses printing randomly.

It is possible that the printer pause the print as a security function when 5V or 24V get to low for a short time?

 

Or is there a other function in the Firmware or in general wich can trigger the pause with no Error message?

 

The failure comes not from Gcode it pauses aslo with older prints and S3D Gcodes.

 

I hope someone can Help.

Thank you

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Hi everyone esp. to tinkergnome,

 

First of all, I want to thank @tinkergnome for the great work he's been doing for the community!

 

So, I've upgraded my UM2+ from stock to v17.10.1. After successful firmware upgrade, I get the dreaded "X/Y switch broken" issue. I searched and found out that the stock firmware messes up the EEPROM and one has to do a factory reset first. So I went back to stock, did a factory reset in the printer, did not complete the steps and immediately re-uploaded the v17.10.1 firmware. Still, I'm getting the "switch broken" issue.

 

Not sure if factory reset has to happen "after" the upgrade but I can't do that since the moment I reboot from v17.10.1 I'm immediately taken to default reset routine and I can't bypass it causing the error to occur even before I can access the menu. Any help is much appreciated.

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2 hours ago, chiz said:

the moment I reboot from v17.10.1 I'm immediately taken to default reset routine

 

What is this? The "first run wizard"? or something else?

 

And yes: re-installing the standard firmware destroys the print area settings... ?

A factory reset with the standard firmware is useless in this case.

 

My suggestion: re-install the standard firmware once more and complete the "first run wizard" this time - that's important.

After that you can install the tinker firmware and it should start without the need to run the "first steps" again.

Then go to "Preferences -> Print area" and correct the values before you do anything else.

X 0- 230

Y 0-225

Z 225 (or 325 for UM2+extended)

 

If in doubt, do the factory reset again, but this time with the tinker firmware. This should do the trick.

 

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Yup, it's the first run wizard. Ok, I'll try it and let you know what happens. Thanks a lot!

 

Update:

You're right! I need to complete the first run wizard first. After installing custom firmware, I was able to modify the print area settings. Thanks again!

Edited by chiz
  • Thanks 1

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Hi, I installed for the first time and had a couple of questions, I noticed the retraction settings are no longer part of the material profiles rather there is now a single setting ?, how is it envisaged to be handled for different materials ?. Or does it somehow pick up the retraction per material but only displays it once ?. It didn’t seem to do that as the default was 25 and 4.5 but the set value for each material profile should be 25 and 6.5 on the 2+. What should I change ?

 

thanks 

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Hi Link,

 

the retraction settings per material are a (relatively) new feature of the UM2+ firmware.

The Tinker-Firmware doesn't include this (yet?).

 

Most of the "tinkerers" do not use the material settings on the printer anymore. It's much more convenient to change the GCode-Flavor in Cura to "Marlin" and configure everything with material profiles directly in Cura.

 

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Hi,

 

Quick question regarding the PID tuning, are the default values good enough to use or should I run the PID auto tune for nozzle and bed ?, I am not sure if the defaults are the ones which we're in the UM firmware or are they older based on the TG firmware ?.

 

Also do I need to specify a target temp for the PID (I had to do that with a Prusa machine I had a while back)

 

and finally, what is Heater Time out ?

 

Many thanks !

Edited by Link

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Hi Link,

 

the Marlin PID autotune never worked well for me. But if you want to try it - i would use a target temperature that is close to the usual printing temperatures.

 

Here are some links with the default values from Ultimaker:

 

Heated buildplate:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L250

 

Nozzle heater UM2 (25W):

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L201

 

Nozzle heater UM2+ (35W):

https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L206

 

 

"Heater timeout" switches the nozzle heater off, if the printer is inactive (not printing or paused and no user interaction).

This was actually a feature request from a makerspace, where sometimes users startet the material change wizard or heated up the printer and then went away - and the printers were "cooking" the material for hours or over night...

It just adds some more security.

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Many thanks. 

 

Do do you use PID in the bed or bang ?

 

I have tried PID on the bed and it seems to make the LED's flicker slightly ?>, it is worth using ?, I don't see the temp jump much on the bed, but have read that PID on the bed is a good thing to use ?

 

Cheers

Edited by Link

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6 hours ago, tinkergnome said:

Hi Link,

 

the Marlin PID autotune never worked well for me. But if you want to try it - i would use a target temperature that is close to the usual printing temperatures.

 

Here are some links with the default values from Ultimaker:

 

Heated buildplate:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L250

 

Nozzle heater UM2 (25W):

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L201

 

Nozzle heater UM2+ (35W):

https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L206

 

 

"Heater timeout" switches the nozzle heater off, if the printer is inactive (not printing or paused and no user interaction).

This was actually a feature request from a makerspace, where sometimes users startet the material change wizard or heated up the printer and then went away - and the printers were "cooking" the material for hours or over night...

It just adds some more security.

 

Thanks for providing these, it turns out the default nozzle PID values in the UM2+ Tinker firmware are actually the values from the 2 with the lower wattage heater. If anyone just uses the 2+ fiirmware as is you get pretty wild temp fluctuations. Might be worth updating the defaults in the 2+ tinker file to be the UM 2+ values ?. 

 

I have also noticed the K1 value is different in the Tinker confit for all printers compared to UM for all printers. UM state a K1 of 0.99 and Tinker has 0.95. This value is stated as the smoothing factor within the PID. Does anyone know what this does and does the difference matter ?

Edited by Link

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8 hours ago, Link said:

This value is stated as the smoothing factor within the PID. Does anyone know what this does and does the difference matter ?

It is a smoothing factor on the D-term in the PID algorithm, i.e. a software filter. The K1 parameter is a float value in the range 0 to 1, where 1 means the D-term is applied without filtering and when set to 0 the D-term will never change.

 

I'm not sure about the impact of this parameter. In the early Ultimaker days there were lots of temperature control problems and new ideas were tested to fix them. In the end most problems turned out to be caused by variations in the electronics from machine to machine. Those electronics variations are now controlled and the parameter might be a left over from those early days.

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8 hours ago, CarloK said:

It is a smoothing factor on the D-term in the PID algorithm, i.e. a software filter. The K1 parameter is a float value in the range 0 to 1, where 1 means the D-term is applied without filtering and when set to 0 the D-term will never change.

 

I'm not sure about the impact of this parameter. In the early Ultimaker days there were lots of temperature control problems and new ideas were tested to fix them. In the end most problems turned out to be caused by variations in the electronics from machine to machine. Those electronics variations are now controlled and the parameter might be a left over from those early days.

 

Thanks @CarloK, I have actually performed a few tests with both sets of firmware, Tinker with 0.95 and UM with 0.99 and the UM version has less fluctuation and holds a more stable temp during a print.

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