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Posted · More information during print

Hard to say, maybe it was just a hickup - have you recopied the file? or just pushed print again?

The problem with such complex machines is: if you can not reproduce the error you have pretty much lost at that point :(

I would keep an eye on that SD card - or maybe really use another one if possible and if it then happens again you know it is not the card but something different.

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    Yup, it's the first run wizard. Ok, I'll try it and let you know what happens. Thanks a lot!   Update: You're right! I need to complete the first run wizard first. After installing cust

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    Posted · More information during print

    Alright, there is definitely something wrong. I re-sliced the object and printed while I was at home. It printed three times fine and the fourth time I heard a rattling noise - like the head trying to move farther than it could and had the "outside area" error.

    I blame the firmware :p

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    Posted · More information during print

    Alright, there is definitely something wrong. I re-sliced the object and printed while I was at home. It printed three times fine and the fourth time I heard a rattling noise - like the head trying to move farther than it could and had the "outside area" error.

    I blame the firmware :p

     

    I think it can also be a faulty trigger the Endstop cause (loose connection, cable breakage). Did you perhaps a cable tweaked during the assembly of the new motor feeder a?

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    Posted · More information during print

    @tinkergnome:

    After 2 days and some prints I can confirm you that all is working fine :)

    Guglielmo

     

    Hi, gpb01 -

    I've started using an Ultimaker 2 Extended to produce replicas of biological structures (mainly bones) for museum exhibits. Because they are very high resolution and large size prints, the build times are long, often taking several days to print. I've had a few prints fail due to filament problems, and am interested in installing a sensor that will pause the machine if the filament stops feeding. Are you continuing to have success with the Tunell sensor that you installed?

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    Posted · More information during print

    This should work on a Mac too (after adjusting some path variables probably).

     

    I've not been able to make it work on OSX. The problem is how the SDL library is installed, It's necessary to compile it before. I managed to install the standard SDL Library and make it work with code-blocks with regular C projects, but the Marlin simulator uses mingw, so you have to install the mingw version of both code-blocks and SDL. The SDL-mingw32 library has no makefile so I can't build it.

    On Windows it works like a charm without any problem, you just need to install code-blocks, unpack the lib wherever you want, create an SDL project and it will ask you for the SDL lib path, that's it.

    On the other hand, Daid and tinkergnome, what do you use to convert bitmaps to byte arrays for Ultimaker 2 Marlin? I've tried every program that I've found with no luck. it seems like the hex to bits conversion order is different or maybe there are any shift.

    I've tried LCDAssistant (the one I always use on my Arduino projects with u8g lib), BMP-LCD, LCD Image Converter, Image2GLCD and some online services, none of them work, the bitmap data is disordered.

    Could you share the program or the code you use?

    Thanks ;)

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    Posted · More information during print

    On the other hand, Daid and tinkergnome, what do you use to convert bitmaps to byte arrays for Ultimaker 2 Marlin? I've tried every program that I've found with no luck. it seems like the hex to bits conversion order is different or maybe there are any shift.

     

    For the small icons i do it manually...

    LCDAssistant generates a (nearly) correct array with "Byte orientation=Vertical", but the size of the bitmap (first two positions of the array) has to be added as single bytes. You can check "include size" and remove the two 0x00 bytes from the first line, or add the size manually. That should work.

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    Posted · More information during print

    Just after sending the message, I did another test and I realized the problem was: I didn't build it before run the simulator in code-blocks when I tested the bitmap generated with LCDAssistant, so source files of Marlin didn't refresh properly.

    Of course I was setting width and height manually before the data array itself.

    I have it working now, but there remains a problem with the size: last two cols and last row of the bitmap won't draw no matter if I work with multipliers of 8 or not. I'm going to check every hex number to check the order of bits of every 4 pixels group and see what's going on.

    By the way, I'm porting a graphical menu that I did for my RepRap and also I'm redoing the menu structure of the UM2 Marlin. It was fun to find your fork and to see that you also added preheat functionality among other things. I will share mine as soon as I have a stable version.

    Nice to see that UM2 Marlin has an active community, even if it's minimal compared to RepRap community.

    Thanks dude ;)

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    @Nicolinux - please start a new topic - I think you are on the wrong track but don't want to detract from this topic.

    @tinkergnome - already 2 people have complained about the latest UM2 firmware which limits bed temp to 100C (I and other's prefer 110C for ABS which is achievable if you enclose the machine).  This is in the latest cura I believe - 15.04.6 (I don't think it's in 2.1.2 yet - not sure though).  I'm hoping you don't merge in that "bad" code that limits bed to 100C.  Do you know if your latest Marlin has this 100C limit?  Will you keep that "bug" out of your future versions please?

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    .... Are you continuing to have success with the Tunell sensor that you installed?

     

    Hi,

    yes, it is constantly installed on my UM2 and I have not encountered any problem. :)

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

    @tinkergnome - already 2 people have complained about the latest UM2 firmware which limits bed temp to 100C (I and other's prefer 110C for ABS which is achievable if you enclose the machine).  This is in the latest cura I believe - 15.04.6 (I don't think it's in 2.1.2 yet - not sure though).  I'm hoping you don't merge in that "bad" code that limits bed to 100C.  Do you know if your latest Marlin has this 100C limit?  Will you keep that "bug" out of your future versions please?

     

    Don't be afraid, i do not merge everything... :) - the tinker versions have skipped this step.

    I think you're talking about this commit

    If i remember right, the limit for the "plus" machines is 115C (at the moment...)

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    Posted · More information during print

    Hi,

    yes, it is constantly installed on my UM2 and I have not encountered any problem. :)

    Guglielmo

    Do you know if the tunell sensor also works with the default firmware?

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    Posted · More information during print

    It works on all the tinkergnome versions of marlin (tinkerMarlin). But not the"default" versions. But tinkerMarlin is better than Marlin anyway as I have it on my machines. It can do things like continue a failed print and other great features and if you know how to use normal marlin then you know how to use tinker Marlin.

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    Posted · More information during print

    Do you know if the tunell sensor also works with the default firmware?

     

    Hi Johan,

    as gr5 said, the original firmware totally ignores what happens on pin PC7 of the ATmega2560 so ... the sensor work only if you install the tinkergnome firmware which monitor the pin (PC7) and pause the printer if it goes LOW.

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

    Excellent! I've just received a Tunell sensor and an preparing to install it as you have done. Thanks for the response!

     

     

    .... Are you continuing to have success with the Tunell sensor that you installed?

     

    Hi,

    yes, it is constantly installed on my UM2 and I have not encountered any problem. :)

    Guglielmo

     

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    Posted · More information during print

    Hello, Guglielmo -

    I'm finally getting a chance to install the Tunell sensor on the UM2.  I want to be sure that I get the process correct.  In your description, you describe switching the wires/pins on the connector cable prior to installation.  My cable does not have any white wires.  It has 4 wires, but they are (1-4) black, green, black, and red.  What is the correct order needed for these wires?  Also, can you point me to some instructions for installing the new firmware?  (I've never done this process before, so I don't even know where to begin.)  Thanks for helping out a tech neophyte!  

       MH

     

     

    .... Are you continuing to have success with the Tunell sensor that you installed?

     

    Hi,

    yes, it is constantly installed on my UM2 and I have not encountered any problem. :)

    Guglielmo

     

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    Posted · More information during print

    ... In your description, you describe switching the wires/pins on the connector cable prior to installation.  My cable does not have any white wires.  It has 4 wires, but they are (1-4) black, green, black, and red. .... 

     

    Hi, if you look in my old message you see two important pictures ... the firts one show the connector and the wire on the UM2 side (from the top: black, white, red), on the third you have the wire and the connector on the "filament monitor" (from the top: white, black, empty, red). So ... just open the pictures, look the wire position and compare with your wires ;)

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

    ... Also, can you point me to some instructions for installing the new firmware? ...

     

    Go on TinkerGnome GitHub, download the firmware for your UM2 (for the standard UM2 is Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2-16.03.1.hex) then, connect the UM2 to your PC USB, start Cura and use the function to upload "custom" firmware. Select the .hex that you have downloaded and ... that's all ;)

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

    Hi, Guglielmo -

    The cable in your photos shows only three wires (black, white, and red), but my cable has 4 wires (1-4 black, green, black, red). Following your photos, I should be able to match up the pins and wires. Since the connectors in your photos use only three wires, (one socket is empty) I assume that I can simply cut/disconnect the fourth wire in my cable. I'll give this a try and load the new firmware to see how it goes. Thanks for your help! :)

    Michael

     

     

    ... In your description, you describe switching the wires/pins on the connector cable prior to installation.  My cable does not have any white wires.  It has 4 wires, but they are (1-4) black, green, black, and red. .... 

     

    Hi, if you look in my old message you see two important pictures ... the firts one show the connector and the wire on the UM2 side (from the top: black, white, red), on the third you have the wire and the connector on the "filament monitor" (from the top: white, black, empty, red). So ... just open the pictures, look the wire position and compare with your wires ;)

    Guglielmo

     

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    Posted · More information during print

    The cable in your photos shows only three wires (black, white, and red), but my cable has 4 wires (1-4 black, green, black, red).  Following your photos, I should be able to match up the pins and wires.  Since the connectors in your photos use only three wires, (one socket is empty) I assume that I can simply cut/disconnect the fourth wire in my cable.  I'll give this a try and load the new firmware to see how it goes.

     

    Hi Michael, sorry for the late answer ... I was on holidays :D

    Yes, normally you should just connect the three wires following the photos and all should work ... have you already tried? What is the result? All work fine?

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

    @tinkergnome.

    just installed 16.08 it seems the retraction (after print and after print abort) is set to the wrong value.

    It's retracting 10 CM (!)

    I used the 16.08 UM2 version (and after installation changed steps for bondtech, but did this ok as it prints fine)

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    Posted · More information during print

    just installed 16.08 it seems the retraction (after print and after print abort) is set to the wrong value.

    It's retracting 10 CM (!)

     

    D..n, you're a victim of my lack of sleep... ;)

    But great, that you've tested it - i highly appreciate this.

    published V16.08.1 right now - end of print retraction is back to normal.

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    Posted · More information during print

    Installed V16.08.1 , did a print, all seems fine :) thanks for the quick fix.

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    Posted · More information during print

    Installed V16.08.1 , did a print, all seems fine :) thanks for the quick fix.

     

    You're a brave guy!

    :D

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    First of all, thanks for a brilliant firmware, have been using for quite a while now and it's just perfect.

    I have a question about using a second feeder (plugged into extruder 2) but using a single hotend. Basically I'd like to be able to use an E3D Titan I have on order as a feeder for certain situations feeding into the standard hotend. So I'll just put this in place (currently working on how I'm going to set-up a quick mount) and use this instead of my |Robert| feeder at the back of the machine.

    Rather than unplug the normal feeder stepper with the pancake stepper I'll have attached to the E3D Titan I would like to (either in g-code or in a menu setting) tell the next print to feed material using extruder 2 but carry on using heater/temp sensor 1.

    I guess I might need to load the dual extruder firmware but I suspect that will expect a second hotend.

    So my questions are:

    1) is this possible/sound sensible?

    2) can I do this without firmware modification and if not,

    3) any pointers to help me get started in modifying the source myself e.g. things to be aware of etc?

    Many thanks in advance.

    Edit: I've got myself the source and been able to build it on my machine so I have the answers to the above. I've created a branch locally for now and added a new define DUAL_FEEDER that replaces the Change Material menu with a Feeder selection menu. Without modifying the gcode I can now choose to feed using either feeder through the same nozzle. The only other software changes I need to make is to add the E2 steps/mm and E2 motor current options in - for now I'm changing E1 using the front panel when changing feeder, changing the steps from 282 to 456 is a wrist ache job! I've also made a quick-release mount for the Titan that requires no modifications to the printer, will put up on Youmagine in the next few days. The stepper powering the Titan is plugged into the E2 output on the motherboard so no need to swap and unplug between steppers.

    @tinkergnome - once I've finished the firmware mods would you like me to send you the changes? I have a github account but have no idea what I'm doing so could just send you the changed files for you to look at. I've made changes such that it shouldn't effect anything else and only apply when DUAL_FEEDER is defined so that it may become another build option.

    Edited by Guest
    Found answer myself
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