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cube

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Posted (edited) · More information during print

I made a short check just now. It's working like expected in the simulator (since i don't have a second extruder i cannot test it any further).

Did you sliced it with Cura (UltiGcode) or something else? Using UltiGcode: the first comment lines are important. A non zero value for MATERIAL2 switches on the second nozzle.

 

I made a few more checks,including building a few different firmware's.

The Cura g-code was ok, I used the same test file with all the firmware builds I tried.

At first I thought the mistake I had made was in the configuration.h

 

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 20  #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20

 

by default the temp2 is set to 0, and I had left it that way, thinking sensor 0 & 1 where the 2 I use ... When I build it like this with the latest UM2 marlin non of the heaters turned on, when I made a version with "sensor2" set to 20 the correct heater would turn on, so it appears you need to set sensor 2  (I have still no idea why you need to set 3 sensors when you only have 2 ?)

When I made the exact same changes to your marlin version  (2 extruders, temp sensor, heatup position, and bed adjust positions) again both heaters turned on at the same time while doing a single extrusion print ( same cura g-code, ;MATERIAL2:0 was in the header)tinker.jpg.80312bec8be67beccf06641ba43e1d7b.jpg

So I now went back to a dual extruder version of the latest UM2 marlin, but I would really like to use your version. The UM2 version is annoying to use as you can only see info in the "tune" menu, but when you'r in the tune menu the printer will not start (I thought this was solved someday, but now this issue is in again...)

Basically when you look at the bed heating, the nozzle will not heat unless you go out of "tune", and when you look at the nozzle heating the print will not start, and leave your PLA cooking at 205c untill you go out of "tune" :(

edit: and now I look at the picture I see another strange thing, it seems the nozzles started heating before the bed reached 60c ...

edit2: It seems that with the modified UM firmware Cura (UltiGcode) based prints don't start when in the tune menu, while S3D based prints do start when in the tune menu .... luckily I mostly use S3D for the dual head machine.

tinker.jpg.80312bec8be67beccf06641ba43e1d7b.jpg

Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    Tried the latest version on UM2. I loved all the information but I noticed two things straight away.

    1. There was just noticable flicker of the LEDs (set to 100%). It may be my eyes but after I flashed the original firmware back and I could not see it any more.

    2. The print (sliced with Simplify3D) was shifted towards back by 5-10mm compared to the original firmware. I noticed because the printed object was quite large (200x200mm + brim) and the nozzle hit the back left clip. Flashing back the original firmware shifted the object forward.

    And another interesting "bug" present in both firmwares (this and original), the hours variable is a byte and overflows when it reaches 255h. My print is "only" 42h but during the initial heating the estimated time kept incrementing and it actually rolled over twice :-)

    I suppose nobody will be doing 255h prints :-)

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    2. The print (sliced with Simplify3D) was shifted towards back by 5-10mm compared to the original firmware.

     

    Ahhh that must be it than...I wondered why i had to change my "change toolhead" positions.... head crashed into the parking dock. Also my XY offset was totally off so it seems the issue is on 1 head only?

    **edit; not sure whats going on, having X & Y shifts now..... better first check my hardware ...

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    When I made the exact same changes to your marlin version  (2 extruders, temp sensor, heatup position, and bed adjust positions) again both heaters turned on at the same time while doing a single extrusion print ( same cura g-code, ;MATERIAL2:0 was in the header

    Basically when you look at the bed heating, the nozzle will not heat unless you go out of "tune", and when you look at the nozzle heating the print will not start, and leave your PLA cooking at 205c untill you go out of "tune" :(

    edit: and now I look at the picture I see another strange thing, it seems the nozzles started heating before the bed reached 60c ...

    edit2: It seems that with the modified UM firmware Cura (UltiGcode) based prints don't start when in the tune menu, while S3D based prints do start when in the tune menu .... luckily I mostly use S3D for the dual head machine.

     

    @ultiarjan

    I'm back on-line (yeehaa!) - but still a bit short on time... :)

    I tried to reproduce the heatup issue with no luck. Seems that i miss something... Could you share the gcode, perhaps this can speedup the search. I think you have my email address already?

    The nozzle heater starts when the buildplate temp. reached a value of 10°C below the target temp. That's intended.

    And only the use of UltiGCode leads to the extra heatup stage before the print starts. The conditions that are used to decide if the printing temperatures are reached are only checked inside the (boring) heatup menu - but not in any of the tune menus. That's the reason because it stucks there.

    It would be quite a bit of work to change this - i assume that's the main reason why nobody has done it yet... :)

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    Tried the latest version on UM2. I loved all the information but I noticed two things straight away.

    1. There was just noticable flicker of the LEDs (set to 100%). It may be my eyes but after I flashed the original firmware back and I could not see it any more.

    2. The print (sliced with Simplify3D) was shifted towards back by 5-10mm compared to the original firmware. I noticed because the printed object was quite large (200x200mm + brim) and the nozzle hit the back left clip. Flashing back the original firmware shifted the object forward.

     

    1. The flickering of the led seems to be a rare issue on some models of the printer if the buildplate temperature is PID controlled - i have no clue about the reason but you can switch it back to bang-bang mode (preferences).

    2. Actually it are 5mm... :)

    The reachable y range with the stock firmware is 5 - 230 - if you try to use y coordinates between 5 and zero the printhead just bumps into the front panel -  i thought this is rather confusing and changed it to 0 - 225. But you're right - this breaks the compatibility with the stock firmware. I will change it back with the next release.

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    @ultiarjan

    some news:

    I finally found the issue (heating the unused second nozzle). The fault was on my side... I still have to make some more checks - i will upload it to GitHub in the next days - i will inform you.

    Regarding the "hard-coded" positions: I think the best way would be to make all those X/Y-coordinates (bed-levelling and heatup positions) relatively to the MIN / MAX_POS constants in "Configuration.h". This would significantly reduce the amount of needed modifications on your side, wouldn't it?

    And last but not least:

    It should definitely work with TEMP_SENSOR_2 = 0

    ...except you are using HEATER_2_PIN somewhere in your code (but this is intended for a third extruder...)

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    Posted · More information during print

    Regarding the "hard-coded" positions: I think the best way would be to make all those X/Y-coordinates (bed-levelling and heatup positions) relatively to the MIN / MAX_POS constants in "Configuration.h". This would significantly reduce the amount of needed modifications on your side, wouldn't it?

     

    Would be super if these could be set in an advance menu!
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    Posted · More information during print

    1. There was just noticable flicker of the LEDs (set to 100%). It may be my eyes but after I flashed the original firmware back and I could not see it any more.

     

    This is a good thing because....

    There are 2 ways to control the temperature of the bed: "bang bang" mode or PID mode. The latest um2 firmware uses bang bang mode for certification to reduce the EM radiation (which is small) from PID mode. In "bang bang" mode the controller acts like the simplest possible thermostat - if temp is low turn heat on. If temp is high turn heat off.

    PID mode runs the bed in pulses - about 10 per second - you can see this in the LEDs when the bed is within 10C of the goal temp (when bed is 10C above or below goal temp the bed is always on or always off). The flicker is sublte so some people don't notice it. It used to bug me but I'm used to it.

    So why not just go with bang bang mode? Because the quality of the prints is reduced greatly for some people. You can see horizontal lines in the print. For some reason bang bang mode causes the nozzle to vary in temperature by larger amounts - over 5C - very slowly from layer to layer such that you get layers that overextrude slightly and then underextrude a layer or two layer and you see these annoying lines. This doesn't happen for all printers but I recommend PID mode.

    The EM interference has never messed up my wifi or cell phone or home wireless phone or any other wireless device so I suspect it is negligible.

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    Posted · More information during print

     

    So why not just go with bang bang mode?  Because the quality of the prints is reduced greatly for some people.  You can see horizontal lines in the print.  For some reason bang bang mode causes the nozzle to vary in temperature by larger amounts - over 5C - very slowly from layer to layer such that you get layers that overextrude slightly and then underextrude a layer or two layer and you see these annoying lines.  This doesn't happen for all printers but I recommend PID mode.

     

    True. Another way to solve this, at least on my printers, was to start using the Olsson block and good isolation of the nozzle (against fan air flow) its all smooth now.

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    Posted · More information during print

     

    Ok here comes the stupid question. So shoot me.

    I've been browsing this thread a day now, and see that people are making some nice mods to the firmware to get more screen stuff etc.

    I'm pretty much new to the Arduino environment as the UM2 is the first device in my house that uses such a system.

    How do you actually upload and update the firmware that is there in Github?

    If i follow the links you guys post here, i find my self downloading a zip file that contains like A LOT of suff,

    I'm not new to pc's and doing things, but i'd like to ask before i do anything that i will regret later.

    I'm not interested to learn to modify the codes etc, just interested to test the stuff and learn from it to get a better hang of the whole thing

     

    there are no stupid questions , only stupid answers :)

    Download the .hex file :

    UM2

    Or

    UM2 EXTENDED

    Or

    UM2 GO

    Plug USB --> PC

    With Cura : Machine -> Install custom firmware (.hex)

    Wait and have fun !

     

    Alright guys, I am in the same boat as this guy once was. Firstly I must apologise for hijacking what seems like such a technical thread. My knowledge of Adruino is slim to none but I would like to learn about it!

    I can install custom firmware through Cura, as mentioned above and I don't understand much more than that. I have played around with a few repos from the github in arduino ide but I only understand about 10% of it all. Done lots of searching all day but can't find a basic enough guide to get me started.....

    The above hex code has some wicked features however I would like to make a few minor changes. I need to reduce the x and y travel to stop my new modified head crashing into the wall and if possible change the fan voltage for the heatsink fan from 5v to 12v (I understand this might not be possible as its probably a hardware setup and not controlled by 5v due to the firmware?)

    Any help would be very much appreciated

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    Hi Duke :)

    i'm afraid that the 5V connector is just what it's name says... a 5V connector... :)

    Perhaps there is a spare 12V source somewhere that could be accessable with a little help of a soldering iron or such things... I think there are some electronic engineers here on the forum - perhaps with some helping ideas...?

    Regarding the firmware changes:

    There are some links in this page for a (probably) more convenient development environment.

    The min/max positions are defined in Configuration.h but this is only the beginning...

    There are several (hard coded) x/y positions for the bed leveling wizard, the change material wizard and the heatup position. The challenge is to find and adjust these positions accordingly...

    Arjan (ultiarjan) is already on this path - there are posts about this one or two pages back in this topic.

    There are also some good news about this:

    I have already done most of the work for you... There will be a new release of the tinker firmware in a few days. It will have a simple preferences menu to adjust the print area. If you can wait until next week... this would probably be a better starting point.

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    Hi Duke :)

    i'm afraid that the 5V connector is just what it's name says... a 5V connector... :)

    Perhaps there is a spare 12V source somewhere that could be accessable with a little help of a soldering iron or such things... I think there are some electronic engineers here on the forum - perhaps with some helping ideas...?

    Regarding the firmware changes:

    There are some links in this page for a (probably) more convenient development environment.

    The min/max positions are defined in Configuration.h but this is only the beginning...

    There are several (hard coded) x/y positions for the bed leveling wizard, the change material wizard and the heatup position. The challenge is to find and adjust these positions accordingly...

    Arjan (ultiarjan) is already on this path - there are posts about this one or two pages back in this topic.

    There are also some good news about this:

    I have already done most of the work for you... There will be a new release of the tinker firmware in a few days. It will have a simple preferences menu to adjust the print area. If you can wait until next week... this would probably be a better starting point.

    Thats what I suspected about the 5v fan issue, its not to much of a big deal as I should be able to purchase a more suitable fan locally. Just seems strange UM went down the path of having a 5v fan there when the other two cooling fans are 12v? all I'm am wanting to do is replace the small 5v fan with a 30mm one.

    As for your new firmware I can certainly wait!

    I read about what ultiarjan was doing and thats how I ended up here. I am still dead curious about playing with the Adruino too, I seem to get stuck at the step where I need to copy a file under the sanguine folder which I can't seem to find

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    Posted · More information during print

    Updates...

    I have published the 15.09 release of the UM2 tinker firmware.

    The most visible change is the advanced main menu. It has now room for the new preheat menu and the most used material options.

    um2_geek_printing_23.png

    The preheat menu needs a bit of explanation:

    The "circles" are switches to switch the heating of nozzle and buildplate on and off. The target temperature for the buildplate is copied from the selected material setting.

    The heating of the nozzle is switched off by default - if you switch it on the (pre-) heating of the nozzle starts if the buildplate temperature has reached a value of (at least) 10°C below the target temperature.

    The preheat temperature of the nozzle is calculated - depending on the material setting. Default is 80% of the material temperature (rounded down).

    um2_geek_printing_24.png

    Also new (probably useful for other tinkerers...)

    The print area is now adjustable without recompiling (Preferences -> Print area).

    Be careful with those changes... and don't forget to relevel the buildplate if you change the max z position...

    um2_geek_printing_25.png

    As always: give it a try if you like - but on your own risk...

    Comments are welcome - here or on the github page.

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    Posted · More information during print

    Thanks!

    I don't think the adjustable print area will work for me as I like to be able to use the area between my "docks" but I'll adjust this version with the custom start & level positions and test it soon..

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    Posted · More information during print

    I really would like to test the tinkergnome, but is there a way to go back to the default firmware afterwards? if yes, how?

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    Posted · More information during print

    ... is there a way to go back to the default firmware afterwards? if yes, how?

     

    Just start Cura and ...

    15.04.xx : top menu "Machine" -> "Install default firmware"

    15.06.xx : top menu "Extensions" -> "Firmware" -> "Update Firmware"

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

     

    ... is there a way to go back to the default firmware afterwards? if yes, how?

     

    Just start Cura and ...

    15.04.xx : top menu "Machine" -> "Install default firmware"

    15.06.xx : top menu "Extensions" -> "Firmware" -> "Update Firmware"

    Guglielmo

     

    Thanks! And the default Firmware is this one for my Ultimaker 2 right? https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

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    Posted · More information during print

    ... btw.: how often can one flash the firmware until the eeprom will break down..?

    (Edit: google suggests something between 10.000 and 100.000 times - no problem... ;)) ...

     

    Back to this very old post (Jan 2015) and just to clarify ...

    ... the firmware is NOT stored into the EEPROM, the firmware is stored into the Flash memory of the ATmega2560 (... the MCU used on the Arduino Mega) and you can reprogram the Flash at least 10'000 times, after you can have problems.

    The EEPROM is the memory (... still inside the ATmega2560) where you normally store "parameters" or other values you want to permanently save from the program (... so, can be read/written/erased from inside the program) and can be reprogrammed at least 100'000 times.

    Hope this help ;)

    Guglielmo

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    Thanks! And the default Firmware is this one for my Ultimaker 2 right?

     

    I suppose Cure chooses the firmware relying on the printer that you have declared, so ... if you have declared the Ultimaker 2, Cura install the firwmare for the Ultimaker 2.

    Please note that the firmware uploding function DON'T go on github to take the last release, but install the firmware present inside the version of Cura you are using.

    After installing the firmware, you can go into the printer Advanced menu and you can check the version installed.

    Guglielmo

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    Updates...

    I have published the 15.09 release of the UM2 tinker firmware.

    The most visible change is the advanced main menu. It has now room for the new preheat menu and the most used material options.

    um2_geek_printing_23.png

    The preheat menu needs a bit of explanation:

    The "circles" are switches to switch the heating of nozzle and buildplate on and off. The target temperature for the buildplate is copied from the selected material setting.

    The heating of the nozzle is switched off by default - if you switch it on the (pre-) heating of the nozzle starts if the buildplate temperature has reached a value of (at least) 10°C below the target temperature.

    The preheat temperature of the nozzle is calculated - depending on the material setting. Default is 80% of the material temperature (rounded down).

    um2_geek_printing_24.png

    Also new (probably useful for other tinkerers...)

    The print area is now adjustable without recompiling (Preferences -> Print area).

    Be careful with those changes... and don't forget to relevel the buildplate if you change the max z position...

    um2_geek_printing_25.png

    As always: give it a try if you like - but on your own risk...

    Comments are welcome - here or on the github page.

     

    This is great I cant wait to get home and give it a try!!!

    If by adjusting the print area, does it also change the heat up and change filament head position?

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    Posted · More information during print

    If by adjusting the print area, does it also change the heat up and change filament head position?

     

    At least it is intended this way... :)

    BTW: this applies also to the parking position (during pause) and the positions of the bed leveling wizard.

    And keep in mind that the x/y "home" position is x_min / y_max if you calculate the values.

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    Posted (edited) · More information during print

    @tinkergnome:

    Sorry for my "ignorance", but ... please can you clarify "when" and "for what" I can use the  "preheat menu" ? :)

    Thanks in advance,

    Guglielmo

    P.S.: anyway, I have installed the latest version on my ultimaker 2 and ...

    ... works like a charm :)

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · More information during print

    P.S.: anyway, I have installed the latest version on my ultimaker 2 and ...

    ... works like a charm :)

     

    I appreciate your bravery... :)

     

    Sorry for my "ignorance", but ... please can you clarify "when" and "for what" I can use the  "preheat menu" ? :)

     

    First - there are menu options for "Preheat ABS", "Preheat PLA" and "Cooldown" on the Ulticontroller (of the UMO) - and some of the veterans missed it on the UM2.

    Basically it's a "shortcut" to "Heatup nozzle" and "Heatup buildplate". Especially heating up the buildplate can take a while before a print starts and there are quite a few experienced users that have integrated a "manual preheat stage" in there workflow already :)

    for example:

     

    1. select "Advanced -> Heatup buildplate"

    2. turn the encoder wheel until the favored target temperature is displayed

    3. go back and select "Heatup nozzle"

    4. again turn the encoder wheel to about 180°C

    5. take the sdcard out of the slot and went over to the computer

    6. slice the desired object and save the gcode to the sdcard

    7. after a few minutes: go back to the printer, insert the sdcard, select the file

    8. ...and the print starts in a few seconds because the target temperatures are almost reached

     

    The new "Preheat" menu is just a more convenient way to pass the first four steps.

    If it does not match your workflow - just keep on ignoring it... :)

    Hope that helps...

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    Posted · More information during print

    Hope that helps...

     

    YES, a lot ... very clear, thanks :)

    Guglielmo

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    Posted · More information during print

    First - I must say I LOVE this firmware, I have been using it since v15.03.  The new menu with preheat is awesome.

    Not sure if this has been asked before but is it possible to change the order that the files on the SD card are shown so that the latest file is at the top instead of at the bottom?  Yes, I know you can go up and it will take you to the bottom of the list but sometimes if I have a lot of files on the card I am using it takes the machine a bit of time to get there.

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