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Posted · Simplify3D

LOL that was my first print with S3D to test out the support structure, i had no issues with but i did have 'only retract when crossing open spaces' on so i might try it with it off and see if i get the same results as you did .....

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I contacted them to clear out the "too much retraction"-issue and this is their reply:

 

Hi Steve,

 

 

 

Thank you for the email. We have an Ultimaker 2 in our office that we print on almost constantly, so I would be happy to help you with your question. As you may have noticed, the UM2 settings that we include with the software have a very small negative value entered for the extra restart distance. This means that the retraction distance will be slightly larger than the prime distance (in this case, it would have a retract of 4.5mm and a prime of 4.37mm). This helps to account for the fact that the extruder may ooze a small amount while moving to the next printing location and will help eliminate surface blemishes on your part.

 

 

 

However, if you make lots and lots of retraction movements very quickly without much time between retracts, then the extruder is not really traveling enough to create the 0.13mm of ooze that we see with larger parts. In that case, you may want to decrease the extra restart distance or remove it completely (by changing to a value of zero).

 

 

 

In general, for Bowden extruders, we also try to minimize the number of retracts that are required, exactly for this reason. So we may try to avoid retracting within a layer if we are not leaving the part outline. In some cases, we may even disable retraction between layers. There are all methods to help improve print time and minimize how often the extruder needs a full retraction movement. You can change these settings in the Advanced tab of your process settings, under the Ooze Control Behavior section.

 

 

 

Hope that helps!

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Excellent Blizz that explains why i did not have the issue as i had already taken out the -0.13, with this set to zero i did not notice any ooze on my prints at all...

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I bought Simplify3D just after getting my UM2 - I thought Cura's reputation for poor support structures would be more of a problem than it has turned out (now I try to avoid the need for support, or add something manually).

The biggest problem was that it's locked to a single PC, hence not as flexible as say Cura. Even worse, every now and then the software would simply forget it had already been activated! (I suspect it had to do with me inserting a 3G USB wireless NIC whenever my ADSL landline was down, while disabling the internal ethernet NIC - thus changing the machine signature), and even worse it would then refuse to reactivate even after these hardware changes had been reversed: I had to email their tech support. Eventually they gave me a version that didn't need activation, so I can't complain about their tech support... but even so it left me wary about relying on it. I don't mind paying for software, in fact I kind of prefer it (I like the support rights it gives me)... but I hate dongled software in all its forms.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I bought Simplify3D just after getting my UM2 - I thought Cura's reputation for poor support structures would be more of a problem than it has turned out (now I try to avoid the need for support, or add something manually).

The biggest problem was that it's locked to a single PC, hence not as flexible as say Cura. Even worse, every now and then the software would simply forget it had already been activated! (I suspect it had to do with me inserting a 3G USB wireless NIC whenever my ADSL landline was down, while disabling the internal ethernet NIC - thus changing the machine signature), and even worse it would then refuse to reactivate even after these hardware changes had been reversed: I had to email their tech support. Eventually they gave me a version that didn't need activation, so I can't complain about their tech support... but even so it left me wary about relying on it. I don't mind paying for software, in fact I kind of prefer it (I like the support rights it gives me)... but I hate dongled software in all its forms.

 

I have it installed on 2 computers, both can run Simplify3D simultaneously, pretty flexible I think?

Just installed it, and copied the serial they mailed me.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Any debate here (about dongles and activation) would be off-topic, so I'm happy to leave it alone with the explanation I gave earlier.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I think a discussion about the activation would actually be pretty on-topic... Also, it is indeed not locked to a single machine, I have a MacBook Pro and a Lenovo Y580 (Windows), both of which have been activated without issue. I did try activating on a third machine, however, the limit is 2, not one machine.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Just installed on a second machine - so agree that it is possible - bought it this week. Both are WIn64bit

James

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I meant that a single installation is locked to the PC you install it on, I didn't say that your license doesn't allow multiple installations - that's between you and the licensor. I would imagine however that it's a very finite limit. And I would point out that I've never had activation problems with Cura. Nuff said?

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Looking into this guide of Simplify3D, from my point of view CraftWare looks quite similar... Has anybody ever worked with this???

I found it "accidentially" and downloaded the beta for trial - but had no time up to now to test it...

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Guys

I have just purchased S3D I had not found this section of the Forums and was Glad in a Way it gets such a good review. I had purchased it for one simple reason Supports and the in ability of Cura to put them where i want them ect.

I have read this section and I like Nicolinux above want to mimic my UM2 behaviour through Cura I read the link above

 

do I copy and past this into my G Code file at the beginning ??

 

also cura speed is operated at mm/s and S3D is mm/m when I usually print it's at around 30mm/s I multiplied this by 60 to give me 1800 in S3D I take it I'm correct in that..

 

I have played with S3D a couple of days but not printed anything yet my print is quoting 10.5 hrs so I want to get it strait in my mind it will work..

 

retraction seems a problem?? is that the case???

 

any help appreciated setting up the G code..

 

Bob

 

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For a recent woodfill print that burned at the end with the slowing down to respect the layer height I've asked for their opinion on how to improve:

 

IMG 1018

 

As always, the reply was excellent. Even though It doesn't completely apply to this situation, I did want to share their answer with you all. It might be of help:

 

 

Greetings Steve,

Thank you for contacting Simplify3D support. That looks like a very interesting model, I'd be happy to recommend some settings changes to accommodate your requests. There are two settings in particular, that actually can work hand-in-hand to help with your print. The first is one you mentioned, with the Speed Overrides under the Cooling tab. The default setting is for layers under 15 seconds long, allow for speed reductions down to 20%. Due to the fact that burning is a large issue with the wood filament, I would recommend using the settings for 10 seconds and 60% slow down.

The other setting is "Print Islands sequentially without optimization". This setting is found in the Layer tab, and when checked will actually increase the layer-time by taking a less-efficient paths between islands as shown in the picture below. This means that the toolhead will naturally have a longer layer time and will not have to slow down for the Speed Overrides nearly as often.

Simplify3D Island Printing

If the combination of these two settings don't remedy your problem, we could also look into using multiple processes for this model, and disable the speed overrides, that way each portion of the model will have a designated speed that's exactly at what you set, but I would recommend trying the two above settings first. I hope this helps, thank you for contacting Simplify3D support, we're happy to help and especially with a print as awesome as this one!

 

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For a recent woodfill print that burned at the end with the slowing down to respect the layer height I've asked for their opinion on how to improve:

 

 

As always, the reply was excellent. Even though It doesn't completely apply to this situation, I did want to share their answer with you all. It might be of help:

 

 

I will send them a mail, if they know off, or can come up with a solution of my 'Blob' retraction problem?

That's where you pay the $$ for I guess :)

WP 001117

 

Left Cura, Right S3D

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Hey guys, i've been testing S3D lately and i'm experiencing the same blobs on the prints.

I've read a bit around the S3D forums and found some information about this, i managed to reduce the blobs but i still have some on retractions mainly.

It seems that the trick is to do the following:

 

in most instances people have too much plastic ooze out after a rapid movement so you enable coasting which stops pushing filament "x" distance from the end of a line. this help relieve pressure. then the wipe cycle kicks in which without extruding back tracks over the end of the line it just finished. after that it retracts and moves. restart extrudes "x" distance of filament before the next line starts. this can be a negative value and really helps if you still are having blobs form at the beginning of a line. since i cant tell what you have going on there you are really going to have to mess with it. first thing i would do is turn on coasting to about 1.6mm as a starting point. turn the wipe feature on at the default 5mm. leave restart at 0 for now. retraction will vary depending on extruder and hotend.

I'm also confused about the ratio parameter, by default it was 0.9 i put it on 1 assuming it was the flow parameter.

And i changed the negative defaut -0.13 retraction value to 0 as it seemed to give problems.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I Really like s3d but cannot get a good finish with it Curra gives a better surface finish, but limited with supports I have tried some of the setting wipe is one that I haven't tried yet but coasting put gaps in my print ratio I set at 1.0 but I like s3d and it reduces print time just wish I could use it better.

what setting are you using for wipe and coasting

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Coasting 2.70mm and wipe 5mm

I noticed i have a really good result, by selecting a good start point (choose start point at the closest dimension).

And print the outer shell slower (much slower: 20mm/s) with inner shell at 40mm/s

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

yes

I play usually with getting as little retraction as possible and print slowly on the outer layer. with coasting set at 2.7 did you notice any gaps at the end of the run. I have not used the wipe function yet I set the retraction to about 2300 and 5.0mm but still get oozing I also print quiet cool with PLA at about 185. My next print job I will need to print supports and have been experimenting with the function of applying them. User Defined. On my last print I printed in 3 sections which is the best feature of S3d.

had a few problems doing so when it went from one section to the other it deposited some pla at each start point which damaged the look of the print.. I think this was coming from the .25 prime I had set in the beginning script.

but the beginning script is a bit off I would of liked S3d to behave more like Cura instead I find it a bit of good luck when it primes and then starts to print.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Transitioning between sections i.e. where layer height and/or print speed and/or extruder temp and/or flow rate etc. are changed. There is a fundamental principal comes into play here, filament pressure. This is controlled by the drive mechanism and is dependent on the settings controlling the amount of filament to be printed and the speed at which it is deposited; typically the layer depth and the print speed plus the extruder temp. which is the balancing mechanism controlling the viscosity of the plastic to provide perfect (or not) extrusion.

When you change settings they do not all happen in the same nanosecond. Which means for a period of time your pressure will not be correct nor will your extruder temp be correct for delivering the optimum flow to match the pressure. You only have to change your extruder temp. via your printer controls to see how long it takes for the temp. to stabilise at the new temp. Whilst your flow mechanism is out of balance there may be a risk of artefacts being deposited. It will of course depend on a number of variables including the magnitude of the change(s), the filament and the geometry.

I am not suggesting that this happens all the time but it can happen. I started life using Slic3r which has more variable options than Cura, such as different bed and extruder temps for layer 1, different speeds e.g. for infill and perimeter walls, different accelerations for infill and perimeters etc. Since changing to Cura the quality of my prints has been noticeably better, not just because of the aforementioned, I have always found Cura to be far better on retraction.

I have always wanted to try S3D but I will not support a software company that fails to provide demo/trial software; a bit like buying a car without sitting in it and driving it. Being able to change settings for different parts of the print is awesome but just how well does it work? If you want to change print speed from 60mm/s to 20mm/s do you just do it or is it better to make two or three incremental changes rather than just the one.

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yes I agree Cura I think from a newcomer is better on retraction and gives a better finish BUT cura holds you back in certain ways and the ability to change layer height at different stages is good along with supports where you want them is also very good I would agree that the support from S3d is not brilliant in my case I also think for the money it is not waisted at all. Without it I would not have managed to finish a project which cura was unable todo.

I think there's a place for both of these in my world. Just wish I could use S3d better

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Posted · Simplify3D

I'm just having a go with S3D. Is there any way for S3D to put values into the startup code? For instance:

M109 S{print_temperature}. Can the {print_temperature} be substituted with the real value?

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

I think not i didn't add anything about temp in the startup code and it works nonetheless.

This is the start.gcode i have:

G28 ; home all axes

G0 X20 Y20 ; Bring extruder to the front

G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length

G1 Z0.3 ; lower

G1 X35 E30 F225 ; purge nozzle wipe with 25mm of filament

G1 X45 Y20 F2100

G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again

It's a bit odd when priming but it does the job... probably needs some tweaks, didn't have time to play around :)

 

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