Jump to content
conz

Simplify3D

Recommended Posts

Posted · Simplify3D

I just hope this is not right... for 0.8 nozzle at 0.2 layer and 20 mm/s 240 celsius is way to hot imho... even at 45mm/s and 0.25 layer I do this at 220.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

I just hope this is not right... for 0.8 nozzle at 0.2 layer and 20 mm/s 240 celsius is way to hot imho... even at 45mm/s and 0.25 layer I do this at 220.

 

You can do the tests yourself imo, select a plus model in Cura and select a few profiles and save them to an SD.

Wait until the build plate reaches it's temperature and then select "tune" and "temperature" and you can see it yourself how high the temperatures are going.

Quickly abort because you probably don't have a 0.8mm nozzle installed atm, but this way you can check all temperatures for all those new profiles.

at least, that's how I tested it :)

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

I find the quick settings for .4 nozzle really strange. I would go under 210c for all three of them and probably go 185c for the Normal. Do not usually go to .05 layers but I suspect I would do hi below 185

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

And this it's why I love s3d. Perfect flat layers, clean (thanks 1.75mm filament) and 5 different processes to adjust the 0.4 nozzle so small letters show clean.

image.thumb.jpeg.5d82cd5db71d3d07f5692db21b1e9774.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.5d82cd5db71d3d07f5692db21b1e9774.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

Ok the profile I posted on page ? .. I have updated it to make it a better 'starting point'. Repost from a reply https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19521-retracting-while-the-head-is-parked-seems-to-allow-more-ooze?page=1&sort=#reply-135282 So this stays on something related to S3D

S3D default profile it's quite horrible to say the least. Even the starting gcode sucks (imo).

Ok got some time, so I made a basic (imo) S3D decent setup. You need to adjust speed and nozzle/bed temp. Fans are configured as I would do for something not critical, they should be tuned for each job.

Umo Plus and UM2 - Neotko basic profile

Note that the default (machine) starting sequence it's different on this profile, since I prefer to home the head, then the bed, then move down the bed 15mm, then extrude 9mm of filament to purgue, and then it goes to print.

And the ending gcode it will retract a total of 3mm.

This profile it's ready for 2,85mm users (I use 1.75) so probably the Coasting/wipe, should be higher on others.

Also this setup will retract A LOT (as it should). To disable many retractions, edit the profile and go to ADVANCED - and activate 'Only retract when crossing open spaces'. Also activate the 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' this second option it's like combing of cura, but on S3D you can specify how much, or less, you want your head to move around the print area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

@frederiekpascal nevermind, found your profile!

but... your profile actually uses an infill of 15 percent and a support percentage of 50.. that seems weird? i would say infill at 20 and support at 18?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

Depends on what you try to print. The table print area it's very easy to edit on s3d.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

@frederiekpascal nevermind, found your profile!

but... your profile actually uses an infill of 15 percent and a support percentage of 50.. that seems weird? i would say infill at 20 and support at 18?

 

like @Neotko says, it depends on the model a lot. When I need very tall and strong support structures I use 50% support infill percentage for the support, otherwise I don't go lower than 30%.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

I've gone over your profile a couple of times and i'm not a big fan.. mostly the retraction settings.. you've upped the speed a bit making it very noisy and i have not experienced any advantages so far..

what are the major changes and their advantages?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

I use 35mm/s because I only retract 3.2mm so it's perfect less blops on my 1.75mm setup. For 2.85mm thinks are different. As I said its a starting point a bit more clean than the default one. It need tunning ofc.

Just to give a better picture. I have 49 profiles for my prints.

Edited by Guest
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

Other think. I can retract every 0.50mm because on 1.75mm there's more filament moved (linear) to print that amount than on 2.85mm. So I can do more retracts without risk of grinding. If I use a weak filament or a filament that it's about to die I change retracts speed to 15-25 and change minimum retracts to 1.50-2mm. Worse quality, but nothing that I can't fix by lowering the temp and speed to avoid strings.

When you get use to the key options for each situation you can do almost anything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

I've gone over your profile a couple of times and i'm not a big fan.. mostly the retraction settings.. you've upped the speed a bit making it very noisy and i have not experienced any advantages so far..

what are the major changes and their advantages?

I have different S3D profiles I'm actively using. The one I shared used 35mm/s retraction, normally I use 25mm/s. It all depends on the model I'm printing though...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

Any idea how to get my print time more accurately counted on console ie. it says I have 1 min left to print but actually its more like 5.

using TinkerGnomes 16.01

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

I think the most reliable method is to write down you start time and the time calculated by Cura .... I feel the time left on the printer is usually less accurate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

I never really measured how accurate the calculated time of s3d is..... I think in general cura is pretty good... a bit of an indication is good enough for me...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

This may not be totally relevant but may help your thinking. I slice with Cura but my printer is controlled by Repetier Host; so I pass the Cura created gcode to RH and then use the RH print calculated time. This is from the RH help text.

"With “Add to comp. printing time” you define, how the host should correct the computed printing time. When the host computes the time from g-code, it assumes all moves are executed at the feed rate requested. If you do a slow print, this will be quite correct, except that it doesn’t take the time to heat the extruder/bed into account. With fast prints, the firmware needs to accelerate/decelerate a log, which increases the print time. After some prints, where you compared the computed and real printing time, you should be able to figure out how much percent you need to add to the computed time. Don’t expect to match every print. Depending on the geometry, the time will still differ a bit."

I increase the calculated time by 8% which gives me pretty accurate figures nearly every time. I use this software process for estimating print times for customer pricing so it is something I keep a constant eye on.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

8% increase sounds accurate for me also vs the s3d times it calculates.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

I've used S3D with My Wanhao and now for my UM2+.

there are a number of options in the retract settings and in the advanced.

the extra retract when a negative value is used it will stop the filament short by that amount from the nozzle. A possitive value will feed that value in addition to the normal retract setting.

there is also the wipe option to consider. However in the advanced tab (if I remember corectly) there is a 'retract whilst wipe'

On the UM2+ I have my extrusion set to 0.9 with 6mm retract, 2mm wipe and retract whilst wipe ticked. the results are great.

the layer settings is to aid in adhesion to the bed. so you can have a lower layer, have 120% extrusion multiplier and 50% speed to really put it down. but I don't have it as such. just 110% extrusion multiplier.

the support structure is a scaffold style. which basically builds a platform upto the over hang. the density of this frame work can be adjusted to be either spars or dense (%) then you have the dense layers that form the new bed for your part and the number of layers it forms.

please also note that you can set the resolution which is set in mm. the lower the value to smaller the over hang it will try and support. but this is in conjuction with the angle you set ( I have set it to 45deg as standard) you can also increase the area the support covers beyond the boundary of the part.

The part preview tool is very hand as you can use a section view in x, y or z axis. you can analyse how the layers sit on top of each other.

version 3 has also seen the addition of the unsupported area functions expanded to allow the layer of the unsupported area to over lap the part by a value you set.

finally the Script tab give all you GCoders the oppertunity to add a whole load of automation to start and end code, cooling tool change (dual extruders) etc

I could go on and on. It is supirior to most if not all software slicers out there just based on it's versatiltiy and the results are better than I have had with a few of the others.

If you are stuck or dissapointed, don't dispare, go to the Simplify3d community forum and I am sure the answer is there or I could give it a go to help out but please bare in mind I am using a Wanhao D4S and a UM2+ with Simplify3D.

hope this has been insightful

Becky

PS: the developers are definately from the US

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Simplify3D

has or does anyone use S3d Bed Levelling Routine,,

I am having some serious issues with the first layer, was bad before I put Bondtech Extruder on just got a hole lot worse now.. After the first layer is laid the prints are fine, but the first layer is Serious messy far to much material being laid down it looks like my bed is way off level but I checked it and checked it....

Any thoughts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!