Lieven
Welcome to the forum and entering an interesting 1st post. I can disagree with anything you have said
Lieven
Welcome to the forum and entering an interesting 1st post. I can disagree with anything you have said
PLA bed temperture. Initial tests had shown that 70C was optimal. However, we later discovered that those tests where flawed. The default is actually at 60C right now:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/UltiLCD2_menu_material.cpp#L573
As for ABS. It's just one of those things we have way less experience in. I knew some changes that had to be made, but they are certainly not dialed in perfectly. The fans are at 50% for ABS actually. I have had problems at 230C with ABS in the office.
As for the temperature on screen. It's one of those "easy to use/simplicity" vs "hackers" things. But there is the hackers version of the firmware: https://github.com/norpchen/Ultimaker2Marlin/tree/master/Compiled%20Binary
This adds a lot more info on the screens. Advantage of being open is that everyone can make their own version if they do not like the defaults, and are free to share that. I most certainly do not thing that "1 version will rule them all"
Thanks a lot for the report, helped me by playing around with my settings
Welcome to the community.
Cheers Drato
@Daid: I really like the hacked version having lots more info on the display by default but it seems it's been a month since they pulled in your latest changes. It's too bad because I would really like that info as well.
@SandervG : yes, I have the Taulman nylons in 1.75 and love them. I ordered a 3mm roll yesterday, and a roll of polycarbonate. (haven't tried that yet)
to play around with.
I saw a post by Daïd they had considered the E3D printhead for the UM2. My interest is in mechanically strong components, for the PC this means higher temperatures. Do you know of anyone who has already mounted an E3D or a Prusa head on the UM2?
@Daïd: the enclosure/hood on the Replicator 2X does do a lot for ABS print quality. You want to minimise thermal stresses and keeping the whole print warm helps. Lasercutting a plexi hood and front lid for the UM2 is on my to-do list.
Then again, the Taulman nylon might make my interest in ABS a thing of the past.
best, Lieven
Welcome,
After your comparison to Replicator's I'm glad that I decided for the Ultimaker even with the 2 month waiting time back in December. Again and again it is proven to be worth the wait :-)
Lieven
Welcome to the forum and entering an interesting 1st post. I can disagree with anything you have said
@skint: hope you did not disagree with general impression that Lieven liked the Ultimaker 2 ;-)
About the PLA and heated bed thing, I print small parts all the time, and got really use to UM1's blue tape as well. If it fails, restart quickly etc. But when I started using the UM2... I got totally sold on the heated bed.
It takes a tiny bit longer to start, but you get way more reliable first layer. You get a glassy smooth bottom, which is so important for objects that are sliced in half that you glue together later. It is virtually seamless.
On blue tape, part of the edge usually curls a little bit resulting in a bigger seam on a joined object as compared to that printed on glass.
The final print is also way easier to remove on a cold glass bed than on blue tape... and no need to replace a consumable.
- temperature settings are not done in Cura, but are set in the machine per material. I found this annoying and weird.
Personally I found it infuriating, as I strongly prefer to set the both temps manually so I don't have to sit staring at the machine for an indefinite time waiting for it to decide to start a print. And the ideal temp for varies from print to print anyway, so the presets are usually less than optimal.
However, I discovered that Cura allows you to set both temps to 0, which disables the use of the presets and allows for manual control (Thanks, Daid). I also wind up using Kisslicer more often than not, so the presets are irrelevant with it.
On the issue of the E3D hotend, Jonny has done some excellent work on a mount for the UM1. Someone asked about UM2 compatibility and it was noted that the cross axes dimensions are the same between the UM1 and 2.
Have a look:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1877-e3d-all-metal-hotend-for-ultimaker/?p=59121
Jonny also recommended XT as a strong material when printed @ 100% infill.
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SandervG 1,519
Hi Lieven,
Thank you for your detailed report.
It sounds like overal you are impressed with the machine which is a good thing to hear
You are right about the material settings being stored in the Ultimaker 2. I agree I had to get used to this in the beginning as well, but it is a very convenient not to make a slice for every material (even though Cura is very fast).
About the default profiles, the bed at 70º is too hot. I always tune it down to 55º/60º.
The reason it has changed is that you have a much (much!) nicer bottom finish with the glass plate.
You don't need any extra materials (like tape). And it avoids warping better then tape.
ABS with fans, I don't know why. I will pass this on to Daid as a suggestion.
Besides ABS, I have also printed in Nylon which is also very strong. Have you tried this already?
Thank you for your report!
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