Printer stops extruding PLA

[merardo 0]

Here is the result of the test:

I am going to try to start a support ticket, to see how that goes;

 

Thank you.

 

[pleddy 0]

Hey Merardo,

any working solution after contacting the support by now? Since I seem to have a similar problem.

Greetings

Pleddy

 

[ivan-volpe 0]

Hi,

I've just registered after reading about your printing issues. I think I've exactly the same symptoms!

Here it is:

It starts printing well, but after almost 1 hour the filament deteriorates. :-|

 

[neil1138 1]

Was this ever solved for the OP?

I'm having similar issues. With retraction enabled, my extruder grinds the heck out of the filament, causes it to slip, and causes under extrusion issues. I've tried adjusting the extruder tension from all the way loose, to all the way tight and in-between. I've adjusted retraction settings, and nothing really works other than completely turning it off.

Same issues with Ultimaker silver PLA, and colorfabb PLA/PHA.

 

[Amigogogo 0]

Hi,

I have the same issue and have two theories and a (possible) solution that i havent tried out yet, due to my deadline at this moment.

Theory 1: Grinding/pressure of the feeder - Due to the back and forth movement of the feeder the wire is chewed and the accuracy of the feeder is lost. This happens when you have a model that is built up from fine segments/line whatever you want to call it.

Theory 2: Because of the same situation named above (fine detailing) just a little amount of material is used and so the wire stays in the nozzle too long and starts to boil and vaporize. So the feeder thinks it is feeding the nozzle but there is nothing but hot air that is pushed out.

(Possible)Solution: Put a box next to your model which has the same hight as your wanted part. This way the feeder has to flush the nozzle with fresh material and the feeder doesn’t have to chew on the same part of the wire over and over again. No tweaking on feeder, temperature, retraction or what so ever. Just print…

[crazybird 1]

I'm coming just with the same, it is driving me weird... I thought it was a dirty nozzel, I've clean it and still happening. I'v been dismounting the feeder because ninjaflex got really stuck and from there problems. You will think, this idi*t mounted wrong, nope, becuase after that I got another perfect part with PLA yesterday.

Steps:

PLA: (almost a full spool) no problem.

(try once with ABS but not working and not trying anymore)

change to:

Ninjaflex semiflex: No problem, perfect finish quality.

Change to:

PLA: Perfect quality

Change to:

Ninjaflex (normal): gets a knot in the feeder, dismount, try again, it take it but never print, just random bubbles in the nozzle.

Change to:

PLA: a bit of trubble but finally 2 hours printing.

TODAY: not printing anything with any material.

Clean the nozzle: heat until 260 prush and pull with PLA, get some black abs bits and a weird form Photo1. Put some light in the hole look from the top and I can see straight through...

Try to print again. Same problem. Push material by hand and go out like on hits and when I pull back I get this form on the filament.

Photo1:

Photo2:

[Labern 774]

@crazybird

Don't heat up the nozzle to 260 if you are trying to clear the PLA, this can burn the pla especially if it sits there with nothing passing through. the burnt pla gives hard deposits on the inside of the nozzle that cause issues when you go to print.

the weird shape you are seeing when you pull out the filament is because you are pulling it out when its still to hot.

Heat the nozzle to 210deg, push the filament till some comes out the bottom, the let the nozzle cool down to 90deg and try pulling it out hard and fast. if the shape still comes out a bit weird the wait for it to cool down more and try again.

[crazybird 1]

I already dismount everything... :S I'm trying to pull out the temperature sensor from the plate of the nozzle but it is quite stuck. any tips.

[Labern 774]

I already dismount everything... :S I'm trying to pull out the temperature sensor from the plate of the nozzle but it is quite stuck. any tips.

It can get stuck really tight and you make break the wires off.

If you can, slide the element back in, heat the nozzle up, turn the printer off. while the nozzle is still hot, hold the block with pliers. if there is some metal sticking out from the temp sensor then try to grip that and rotate it back and forward trying to pull it out.

You can also carefully drill a small hole in the front of the block. you will feel the bit reach the hole where the sensor is. then try to push it out.

[crazybird 1]

I did something wrong and I don't know if I broke it... I turn on the printer and heat up the nozzle with the heater out of the block, I turn off everything as soon I feel the heat (burn my finger)... I'm shit-scared now :S. I mount back everything (right I thing). Turn on the printer, select change material. To remove the filament from the transparent tube and start again, but from the nozzle is coming some... not smoke but like in the dessert where you can ''see the warm'' and smell peculiar. Not sure if is because of the oil of my hands etc etc or because I really crash it :S

[Labern 774]

@crazybird

If its still heating then it should be ok.

prob burned skin

[crazybird 1]

I'll try tomorrow to print again and I'll tell you, I going to upload aswell a video of the variation of the temperature, because the numbers get a bit crazy moving soo fast from one to the next and I think that wasn't happen and it goes higher and later go down until more or less the temperature set up.

Thanks for the support!

Edited May 12, 2015 by Guest

[Labern 774]

Make sure you update the printer to the latest firmware. how the temp was controlled in some versions showed rapid temp changes

[crazybird 1]

[Labern 774]

Upgrade the firmware and see if it continues as this flickering is firmware based. But it's still ok to use it in that state.

[crazybird 1]

@labern still something happening is like the nozzlet is not heated by everywhere I don't know.

Behind my voice answering the questions of my house mate about uni you can listen the noise that is making the printer when I load the material.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_5egdM6zPQ

anybody else who can help is welcome!

[Labern 774]

That noise is the feeder skipping backwards. This is normal and a safety feature to prevent the feeder grinding the material. You can see the material curling around a lot as its coming out of the nozzle. Try doing an Atomic pull to clean it.

[Labern 774]

You may need to get a small needle or something and put it In the end of the nozzle and rotate it around the edge to scrape any gunk or hard bits off.

[Labern 774]

Atomic method can be found here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

Some PLA's i find i need to go below 85deg

[crazybird 1]

This is unvealibe... IT ISSSS WORKING...

before your answer I sat down and dismount the feeder and make atomic cleaning again ant after the first one (of this time) I pull out a big black thing... did it again and after that, no problem with push the material through (I waste like 20cm just for pleasure...) And the best part is that I recorded and took pictures... I just need to mount the video together, somebody can find it usefull. I'll do it in a bit.

Thank you for your help, I feel like 10kg lighter now hahahaha

PS. I have prepared this just for the occasion, I hope everybody have a good childhood and know this guy (The atomic ant)

Edited May 13, 2015 by Guest

[Labern 774]

Very Good

[psi3000 0]

Nannou, did you ever solve this? I have the same exact problem.  It will print but about 20% of the time when it retracts it wont go back down and the feed stops.  There is about 2 to 3mm of a gap when i press it back down.  I have not torched the nozzle yet as, i figured having a 1.2mm nozzle size would decrease the chances of debris  getting stuck. I did take it apart and look at the nozzle and only saw a small amount of PLA left.  I will torch it when i get back from work and let you know if i find anything.

[psi3000 0]

So it looks like their may have been a small piece of metal in the tip. So small, however, it would have most defiantly passed with the 1.2mm tip.  It was most likely a bur on the side that had not become dislodged yet.  After removing the metal piece it would still stop feeding.

I then took apart the wade extruder to find that the two bearings that were on the hobbed bolt were no good.  One would catch a little every revolution and one was frozen up completely.

Ironically i had just gotten a wades extruder hardware kit in the mail yesterday.  I will let you know if replacing the bearings solves the problem.

[kennedyjm 0]

I am also having a problem where the extruder just stops (no feeder wheel turning) on certain prints that I have sliced with CURA within maybe 2 hours of starting the print.  It has happened on PLA and PETG, where I used heat settings of 220/50 for PLA and 240/70 for PETG.  The printer I am having the problem with is a Mingda Rock 3 Pro where I had previously changed the hot end and extruder to Slice Engineering and Bond Tech.

I think (think) I was able to print one of the early files that had quit on the Mingda successfully on a different printer, an Artillery XS1 V4.

I have tried several things including putting a heat sink on the extrusion motor – apparently a heated-up extrusion motor is not the problem.  I have been able to print the files if I use the Repetier slicer, but not the CURA slicer; I think the problem started when CURA version 5 came out.

I first thought perhaps the issue was something to do with round designs as it happened on a round bird house in PETG and a round flowerpot in PLA.  Then it happened on a rectangular flowerpot I was making to put on my window sill.  In both cases I tried the Repetier slicer (with whatever version of  CURA that Repetier used) and it got past the point where it stopped and successfully finished each print.

I have communicated the problem to both Mingda and to Slice Engineering; I have yet to reload the software supplied by Mingda as I am attempting to eliminate other possibilities first.  Slice Engineering did suggest that they had heard of some files not printing with one slicer and being fine with another…

At the moment I happened across this nine-year-old complaint and offer this as additional evidence that you are not crazy.  Hopefully I will get to the end of it.