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Ultimaker Original won't print


kimera

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Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

The videos were helpful

First observation that you already know is that the feeder is running WAY too fast and WAY too far during both the Pronterface UI moves and during the print.

A 10mm feed done through the Pronterface UI should take about about 6 seconds and rotate about 2/5ths of a turn maybe a little more but less than half. Yours goes like 6.75 revolutions!!!!! A .1mm move is like barely 3 degrees and from a distance it's hard to tell it is moving.

In the pronterface UI, there is a text box on the bottom right below the output from the printer. In that box, enter this as shown (case-significant and no spaces) and press return:

M503

You should get output back from the printer in the box above like:

> M503

< echo:Steps per unit:

< echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00

< echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):

< echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z30.00 E25.00

< echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):

< echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z800 E10000

< echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration

< echo: M204 S2800.00 T3000.00

< echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)

< echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00

< echo:Home offset (mm):

< echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00

< echo:PID settings:

< echo: M301 P27.00 I1.05 D91.41

Copy and paste the output back to this thread. The rest might be important but the critical line is this:

< echo:Steps per unit:

< echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00

 

As for the noise, that isn't normal either. Do you have the black plastic clip on the other side not shown in the video?

Shown on the left here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Drive_bolt_v3_assy.jpg

 

If you don't that's your problem causing the noise. If you do, can you move the gear from side to side by pushing in and pulling out on the large nut shown on the right off the above image? If so by how much?

 

If it is a lot, load some filament to bind up the driver bolt a little. Now while holding the gear, removing the big nut. With the nut off, rotate the big gear clockwise while holding the filament. This will screw the big gear on a little. Check the axial play and repeat until only a small amount of play exists. Now while holding the gear in position, screw the big nut back on without letting the gear move. Tighten and check the play. Remove the nut and repeat if needed.

 

See this for more information on assembling the drive bolt: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Material_feed_mechanism#Step_2:_Drive_bolt_assembly

 

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    Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

    < echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00

    It's the same as your example, which is even more confusing...

    Yeah the clip is there. The washer between the end nut and the gear is quite tight, there's very little movement. Even now when the everything is off there doesn't seem to be much space for movement for those 2 washers, only when I'm printing does it go manic.

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    Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

    Oh and to reply to gr5's 'third most likely problem', the motor seems to be correct. To check I swapped the stepper motor I had with the one from the dual extrusion expansion pack and unfortunately the issue is still present.

     

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    Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

    I'm still completely stuck currently with my ultimaker, nothing has really developed since the last post. It seems everyone has given up on my case though :/ I've contacted support from ultimaker but I'm getting slightly sluggish responses so if there's any more advice on the situation it would be greatly received!

     

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    Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

    Ok, this is cutting into my nap time but....

    There seems to be three things left:

    Bad Driver

    Bad Board

    Noise causing extra steps.

    So let's try to eliminate what we can.

    NOTE: see NOTE after this....

    To check for a bad driver. with the power off, swap it with another one. IMPORTANT NOTE: The drivers on the one side are installed 180 degrees different than the opposite side. So if you are swapping the E driver with say the X driver, you would flip them 180 degrees.

    Alternately, note the location of the current adjust pot and make sure you match the orientation.

    NOTE: If you get the orientation wrong, you will KILL the driver immediately upon powering up.

    Once you have the drivers swap, put the cover on and test.

    If the problem moved to the other axis, you know it's the driver.

    If the problem stays on the same axis, you will need a voltmeter to check if it is the board. NOTE: you must be careful with the probes to ensure you don't short something

    What you need to do is to measure the MS1, MS2 and MS3 pins on the driver. These pins control the microstepping mode. A stepper motor has a set number of physical steps per rev. For the UM1, the motors have 200 steps/rev. However, the drivers can partially step the motor. We don't need to go into the mechanics and electronics on how this is done. Just know that when MS1 - MS3 are high (5V), the driver divides each step by 16 so the motor that has 200 steps will appear to have 3200 steps. If MS1 - MS3 aren't held high, the firmware will issue a step assuming that the motor moves 1/3200th of a rev whereas the motor really moves 1/200th of a rev. If the firmware wants 1 rev, it will issue 3200 step pulses. However, if the steps are full steps, the feeder will turn 16 revs

    So see the pic below. With the meter set to measure voltage on a range that will measure 5V. place the black probe (-) on either black circle BEING CAREFUL not to short between pins with the probe tip. Then with the red (+) probe measure EACH of the red points. Each one should measure 5V.

    IF they don't ALL measure 5V then we found part of the problem. Check the jumpers next to the driver. Pull them off and reseat them. You should be able to touch the metal inside the jumper with the red probe while the other probe is on one of the black points. The metal in each should measure 5V.

    If MS1-MS3 are at 5V, then it might be noise from the arduino causing false steps but from your videos, the stepping seems pretty consistent. So I suspect that you will find MS1-MS3 aren't all at 5V or the driver is bad....

    BE CAREFUL and good luck...

    Circuit complete

     

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    Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

    Thanks for taking time to help!

    I have tried swapping the driver and motor but the problem is still there so I suppose it's the motherboard unfortunately. I don't own a voltmeter to check the voltage across the pins but thank you for your extensive advice.

     

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    Posted · Ultimaker Original won't print

    A cheap one would do. They are good to have for this hobby and for checking batteries.

     

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