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Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

I have just received my Omron TL-Q5MC1-Z proximity sensor.

Rated for 10to30 VDC power supply, but works well down to 2.5V, including the embedded LED.

Measured sensing distance is about 5mm for steel, but less than 2mm for the aluminum plate.

Looks nominal according to page 6 of http://www.ia.omron.com/data_pdf/cat/tl-n_tl-q_ds_e_11_1_csm468.pdf

Unfortunately that is not compatible with my setup where I have a 3mm glass plate !

I need to think more about this issue: either I will have to add a thin plate of steel between the aluminum bed and the glass, or I will have to find another sensor.

Frederic.

 

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level
So, does something like this have any chance of working with the UMO heated bed upgrade?

 

You'll need a proximity sensor rather than an inductive one but it should still be possible, I, playing around with one at the moment, trying to get my head around the various parameters in the firmware at the moment.

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

Hey Guys, just a quick update: today I got the auto-levelling feature working quite well with the TL-Q5MC1 sensor.

I made a bracket to easily connect the bracket without taking the head apart: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:626557

I used the unused second thermocouple-sensor cable to connect the sensor. Regarding wiring: my sensor came with brown (+) / black (sig) / blue (-) cables.

My wiring:

Sensor to Thermopile cable: brown to brown / black to green / blue to orange

at the UM PCB: brown to ground (left pin of the TC input when seen from the side with the PCB upside down like it's normally mounted) / green to the Z-min input (right pin) / orange to +5v (middle pin of the TC input)

 

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

So, any news on how the auto bed leveling is going for y'all?

 

This forum is closed and I haven't been able to find any other info on this approach, but it looks pretty interesting. Uses just one DC motor to mechanically level the bed, no more software compensation.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/R3lSfnCz5W4

 

@Kitwashere, I must have skipped over this the first time I went through the thread. I Really like this solution. The main potential problem I see is that the UMO bed design takes very little force to flex at the front. One would need to find just the right springs to balance out the weight of the bed. Might even need a different spring for the rear screw of the HBK, as it carries twice as much load.

 

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

There are other proximity sensors other than inductive. A capacitive prox sponsor will be fine to see the glass. There is an adjustment pot on them for sensitivity to pick up the glass.

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

I wonder what the repeatability of a capacitive sensor would be. Might change depending on humidity or dust.

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

Hi guys, been reading this for a while now, and I'm curious: what's the minimum amount of steel that you'd need to have under glass for an inductive sensor to work? Why not just get a sheet of 0.5mm (or thinner) sheet steel from a local hardware store, and stick it under the glass?

My printer is still in pieces at the moment (A home grown ultimaker), and this seems like a solution that could work?

 

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

Yes, that works. You don't want to go so thin that it has an uneven surface (aluminum foil doesn't work so well here) but thin generally works better because it builds up more eddy currents for the sensor to detect.

Chromium content boosts read range.

 

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

Hey,

I have read this tutorial and I was interested by doing the same thing.

So, I bought a cylindrical pnp sensor. I've soldered 2 resistors (33k and 8.1k) to down the current to 4.75v. I have the UMO+ which have the same main board than the UMO 2 which brings 24v to the components and 5v to the steppers/ end stop. Unfurtunantely, when I connect the signal to the Z end stop pin, the current and ground cable to a 24v pins, it doesn't work... I send the gcode to see if it is triggered, but it says, "open" (not triggered). What can I do? Is someone have the same problem?

With my multimeter I have measured that when it touches metal, the current is 4.75v and when it touches nothing the current is 0v. Maybe I have this results because it's a pnp sensor..

Thanks for your answers

Have a nice day :)

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

Hi,

Thanks so much for your post Frederic.

That's everything, I needed. Every details are here :)

Knapa

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Posted · Exploring Marlin Bed Auto Level

I stumbled upon your video on YouTube and I really hope Ultimaker makes that a standard upgrade for the Ulimaker Original and other models! Genius!

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