Can't tell you if they'll work or not... You'll just have to try. Kinda stupid that all wires are the same color. Maybe you should dial down the motor current a bit when you try them out.
I bought my last batch of steppers from digi-key. Trinamic QSH4218-51-10-049. They're insanely expensive (40 EUR per piece) but are the strongest motors Trinamic offers. I could've probably chosen weaker ones, but I'll see that as soon as I get to test them.
Hi Chris,
I bought my stepper motors from my-home-fab.de, but I guess that's not an option for your since it is based in Europe/Germany.
I don't know about your steppers but regarding to Rich you'd need these:
Btw, nice Razer keyboard 
The high motor torque will probably be useful at higher speeds - when rapid change-of-direction is needed without losing any steps.
I wouldn't say that such strong motors are needed (it takes less force to move the axes than on a UM, at least when I compare my build against my UMO), but I'm not really an expert here.
The electronics platform (and firmware) used will definitely make a big impact in how well certain motors perform. Acceleration profiles, stepper driver technology and current setting are at least as important as using a suitable motor.
You shouldn't use strong motors with weak drivers, nor use strong drivers and set them to a very low current for weak motors.
Which length of 3mm rods are you guys using from eye hole to eye hole for the carriage to the bearing mount? I'm having a hard time finding the correct length.
According to Rich it is 150mm:
"What's the distance between eye-to-eye on the rods" - Good question, it's 150mm from pivot universal joint to joint, they could be anywhere between 145mm to 155mm, it's just essential they are all the same length, the exact size can be tuned in the firmware.
Keep in mind that if you use longer rods, you loose build height. The hotend can't reach the very top due to the axis geometry. Your build height will be roughly half the length of the aluminium profiles. I made the mistake to choose the default length. If I'd build another 3DR I would go for 500mm build height...
Thanks Nicolinux....I just got done ordering my carbon rods, ball joints, and an E3D Hotend. I know I said I was gonna stick to the original build, but there are a couple items I'm changing. The hotend, rod couplers, motor spools, and extruder are getting upgraded/changed. Haven't yet decided on which extruder I'm gonna use. The black anodized extrusions are otw as well.
I am using an E3D hotend too. And now that I am done with building the printer - I juuuuust need to calibrate it. Today there will be printing!
I am using an E3D hotend too. And now that I am done with building the printer - I juuuuust need to calibrate it. Today there will be printing!
How are you mounting the hotend? I have a design that I'll post here, that is made of 3 parts and will still use the original fan. Just need to figure out the best way to connect everything together. I designed it to give more Z axis movement with how close the nozzle is to the effector.
This is the first basic version which will most likely be modified.
Nice design.
I went with this coupler:
By the way - on my first print I forgot to turn on the hotend fan. After a few minutes there was already a clog. Had to take the hotend apart to clean it :(
Oh by the way. When you assemble the hotend, take a look at this video in order to prevent further clogs:
Wow, I didn't realize you had everything going already! It's gotta be really exciting to get it going. At least you have experience with clogs and know how to deal with them. 
That video should be mandatory for all printers using a bowden tube with squeeze connectors. I had to do that very same thing with both my Ultimakers.
I'm gonna be bothering you a couple weeks from now, since you know first hand what it takes to get this printer going.
Post some pics of your build when you get a chance.
Well that was a shitty first time experience with the E3D hotend :/
The stupid fanduct was loose and could be moved around. It looks like the part is too big for the aluminium body. I asked about it on the E3D forums and got this answer:
Pretty lame for such a "great" hotend. While implementing the fix I didn't notice that the fan duct would be pushed outwards so much that when the fan is clamped onto it, it also bends.
This damaged the fan beyond repair. The rotor is now connected with only one leg to the frame. It may or may not rotate freeley. After removing the worst clog ever it is 3am here in Germany and I won't try to print further.
Damn, and I was so close to the first print...
I will post fotos as soon as I have printed something. If you need help in the mean time, just ask.
Strange, I didn't have any problems with that blue fanduct. It sits firmly on my E3Dv6.
I only noticed that you have to mount the fanduct to the hotend FIRST, and then mount the fan to it. This way it's much easier to get the mount on without damaging anything (especially the fan...).
Btw, nice mount Chrisp! My current design is a lot more primitive - I made a "minimal" construction for lightweight, but the printed parts are ridiculously lightweight anyways, so I doubt it'll matter much.
Which electronics are you both using? I have a Mega 2560 & 1.4 Ramps sitting around with Pololu Stepper Drivers. I'm not gonna buy another board when I can just make an adapter to mount what I have.
Did you get you printer working yet Jonny?
I am using the Rumba board. But I remember that you can use RAMPS without problems. There is also an adapter somewhere.
I plan on using Megatronics v3 (laying around...) and Cooldrv DRV8825 drivers.
Note that I have a lot more space for the electronics in my build than the 3DR.
My build is not yet working, as I'm currently caught up in designing my own electronics platform for 3D printers. Will get back to it when I'm waiting for the prototypes to arrive.
But don't expect much to happen about these electronics in the next few months. It will take me a long time to complete that project. I might show some pictures of the prototypes, but programming the firmware will take it's time (a year, maybe two?).
The point where I'm currently stalled is that I need a fixture for the effector rods to allow me to glue them all to the exact same length. I'll have that fixture made from lasercut aluminum but don't want to place an order just for the one part. So, as soon as the next few parts are lined up, I'll be able to continue.
/edit:
Oh, and by the way: Dragon Age: Inquisition will be released tomorrow, so I might be delayed a little longer... o.O
I finally got most of my parts so I have plenty to do this weekend. Here's how the effector came out
This is just a test print which turned out perfect. it's the same exact dimensions as the one Rich designed for the 3DR so there's no need to change settings for the dimensions in Marlin.
My desk is so ridiculously messy atm with all the new parts and hardware for this printer.
Man your desk looks cool. And it ought to be messy
Regardign your E3D mount - it looks cool. I'd be very interested. Build volume is precious and your design saves quite a lot.
The heater block looks dangerously close to the platform. I think it might melt the pla on longer prints.
Yeah the mount is close, hopefully it will work as planned.
The Hall End Stops I purchased from reprapdiscount were different than the ones shown on the website and also different from the ones shown on the Richrap blog. I guess these are a newer version. They were quite a bit smaller as you can see in the pic. I had to make a small adapter to mount them properly.
I also decided to design a custom mount for the Ramps Board since I didn't like the choices available.
It mounts directly to the 3 screws that hold the center triangle in place.
Here's how it looks together with a few 4mm spacers to set the board at the level I want for the connectors.
I could have finished the build this weekend, but there are still a few items on the way. Like always, I'm waiting on the bearings.
BTW, did you get yours going Nicolinux?
The small hall sensors seem to be the only ones available now. How did you attach the adapter plate? I did it with scotch tape...
My 3DR is finished but I have a hell of a time tuning it. No matter what I try the nozzle won't stay parallel to the bed while traveling. There are a few variables that can be changed in firmware (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET) but it doesn't really help. I measured everything I could and the build seems to be very accurate. Out of ideas right now.
A few links that I bookmarked on that subject:
http://trains.socha.com/2013/10/3dr-simple-delta-printer-firmware.html
http://minow.blogspot.ch/index.html#4918805519571907051
(I found this especially useful for understanding what's actually happening in the delta-bot geometry)
Maybe some of the information there will help you.
I'm not there yet, so I don't have any personal experience to help you with...
The small hall sensors seem to be the only ones available now. How did you attach the adapter plate? I did it with scotch tape...
My 3DR is finished but I have a hell of a time tuning it. No matter what I try the nozzle won't stay parallel to the bed while traveling. There are a few variables that can be changed in firmware (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET) but it doesn't really help. I measured everything I could and the build seems to be very accurate. Out of ideas right now.
I made the adapter with 2 pegs that fit directly into the existing screw holes and used some E6000 adhesive to get it to stick for life. It's not coming back off.
Which extruder option are you both using? I really want to use the one that Rich provided, but I must be missing something. It says M8 Hobbed bolt, but not the length or where to find one. I was also reading about Greg's Hinged Kit on Makerfarm and how that one can be used. I don't want to order stuff I won't need.
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Do you guys know if these steppers would work with this build? I don't have any info on them except for the numbers listed on the pic and they seem like older model Minebea Motors. I'm having a hard time finding the correct literature on them. Also, where did you get your steppers from?
Fit the motors and put the pieces together with the hardware I had laying around. This design is super nice!
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