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3DR Delta Bot (continued)

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

We are all using the Rumba board. That's another thing you have to change in the Configuration.h Sorry, forgot to mention it... Depending on your hardware configuration it is MOTHERBOARD 33, 34, 35 or 36.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Yeah changing the board to 33 is the first change that I made. I did have my motors wired up wrong because they have 6 connectors going to 4. That's done and now they work, but I know the travel distance is wrong from homing position to the build plate. The hot-end slams into the build plate.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

These are the current travel limits that were set in Marlin from the file you gave me Nicolinux:

// Travel limits after homing

#define X_MAX_POS 70

#define X_MIN_POS -70

#define Y_MAX_POS 70

#define Y_MIN_POS -70

#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS

#define Z_MIN_POS 0

 

How exactly do I measure the limits? I thought it was from the nozzle in the homing position to the top of the build plate. In that case it was around 200mm in distance, which doesn't work. How did you come up with 70?

 

I'm so close I can smell the plastic melting!

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

The value you are looking for is "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS". That's the distance from the nozzle to the bed. I choose a smaller value like 236mm in order to allow for negative endstop offsets (moving the nozzle down). Remember the calibration workflow where you have to constantly move the nozzle to one tower, then down and then adjust the offset until the nozzle is a paper width away from the bed. Then repeat this for all towers. Then check the center. If the nozzle is too high, you'd need to increase DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET. Then start the workflow anew...

The other _POS values are derived from a heated bed radius of 70mm. Although my heated bed has a diameter of 170mm, due to the short arms the nozzle can only reach to about 140mm diameter - hence the 70mm radius.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

I finally got everything going and started to level the x, y, and z axis. I keep having clogging issues with this darn E3d hot end. I installed everything by the book and took every precaution necessary to get the tubing inserted and secured properly. I also heated up the hot end to 285 C to tighten up the nozzle. I have dealt with 5 clogs now and it is getting old really quick. I'm getting ready to install my cheaper hot end just to get the printer going. In my opinion, the way the tubing is connected is complete garbage. It's definitely not what I would expect a $90 hot end to be like.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Strange to see how people either report "everything perfect - good hotend" or "complete garbage, doesn't work at all" for the E3D. I'm pretty close to finally trying my E3D hotend out. Not on the delta-printer (bought a Merlin hotend for this one as it will be a PLA only printer), but my all-metal UM black edition went into it's next prototyping stage yesterday :)

/edit:

Back to the E3D: Did you set retraction length to 2.5mm ? I heard Cura's 4.5mm standard are too much for the E3D. But to be honest - I'm not up to date with the E3D anymore. Will need to read through all the stuff again before I start using it.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Sounds familiar. I managed to get a single clog with the E3D but it was my fault. I forgot to have fan0 run all the time. Other than that I don't know why it would could clog so often. Maybe the temperature sensor readings are wrong and the feeder tries to move filament although it is not hot enough.

I saw a video where you use a sharpener to take out the edge of the bowden tube so it can travel a bit further down in the metal socket. Maybe try that too.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Strange to see how people either report "everything perfect - good hotend" or "complete garbage, doesn't work at all" for the E3D. I'm pretty close to finally trying my E3D hotend out. Not on the delta-printer (bought a Merlin hotend for this one as it will be a PLA only printer), but my all-metal UM black edition went into it's next prototyping stage yesterday :)

/edit:

Back to the E3D: Did you set retraction length to 2.5mm ? I heard Cura's 4.5mm standard are too much for the E3D. But to be honest - I'm not up to date with the E3D anymore. Will need to read through all the stuff again before I start using it.

 

Yes, I have tried just about everything, except the original extruder Richrap designed. That's my next step.

 

Sounds familiar. I managed to get a single clog with the E3D but it was my fault. I forgot to have fan0 run all the time. Other than that I don't know why it would could clog so often. Maybe the temperature sensor readings are wrong and the feeder tries to move filament although it is not hot enough.

I saw a video where you use a sharpener to take out the edge of the bowden tube so it can travel a bit further down in the metal socket. Maybe try that too.

 

I tried using a grinding wheel and also a sharpener. It's very difficult to get the right chamfer on the tip. BTW, where did you get your parts for the original extruder? Was it the Makershed kit?

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

I left the retraction settings untouched in Slic3r.

As for the original feeder - there aren't many parts you need. I've got the hobbed bolt somwhere off ebay I think and the ball bearings too. The only custom made part was cut by onkelgeorg which is just a short piece from a smooth rod. The other screws and nuts I had here.

But to be honest I can't imagine why the feeder would lead to clogs. I guess you calibrated it before printing (like disconnecting the bowden tube, moving filament a set amount and then measuring the real distance it traveled). Other than that the feeder can either move too much or too less. If it moves to much filament, then it starts skipping or grinding.

Maybe the culprint is really the hotend itself. Did you contact E3D?

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

I'm gonna try the original feeder and I'm changing the braided line to a belt drive system. I don't like using braided line because it keeps getting loose and my fingers are to big to get in there and tie them up constantly. It might be another 2 weeks until these mods are done.

I will contact E3D if these changes don't make a difference.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Finally got my "effector rod length tool" produced and ready. There will be progress in the next days on my side ;)

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

As promised, the next step is completed:

effector rods glued 1

 

effector rods glued 2

 

Now I just have to hope I didn't get any glue where it doesn't belong...

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

I guess this tool is called a 'jig' or 'Spannvorrichtung'. .Very nice...as glue I used a 2-component, solid in 5 minutes. Btw I'm building the Kossel. Pictures will follow soon :)

About the e3d, I have the v6 3mm bowden version. I'm not happy with it, a lot of friction in the hot-end. Causing problems in the toothed wheel on th eextruder. I am only to print with Ultimaker PLA, 0.6 nozzle, and crazy high temperatures, and borrowing slow speeds. The plan -was- to be able to use 3mm filaments from the Ultimaker in the e3d hotend. I'm almost giving up.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

I also used 2-component glue (Araldite). I took the 5min "rapide" for the first one, but it took me too long and the glue was already hardening when I got to the second rod. So I ditched the rapide and used the "standard" version, which has around an hour curing time. Works perfectly well and (once it is dried, which takes 48 - 72 hours in this configuration!) makes a rock solid connection.

For my first delta build, I'll use a 1.75mm Merlin hotend. 1.75mm filament is better suited for Delta printers because it poses a much smaller load on the effector (you also have to count in the bowden tube! 1.75mm bowden tubes are much more flexible than 3mm ones...).

I didn't take an E3D hotend because the Merlin is cheaper, more lightweight and is supposed to work very well with PLA. And I just wanted to test the Merlin. And an open framed delta printer without heated bed or walls (heated chamber) isn't suited for anything but PLA anyways...

I will however test the E3Dv6 on my Ultimaker Black Edition, which I'm also building these days. It will be used primarily with PLA, but also Colorfabb XT. I'll see how it goes...

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

When I push in standard ultimaker light blue pla at 250 into the UM2 hotend, eg for atomic pull, it doesnt take much force. Same filament in e3d much more force same for xt. I'm curious what your observations will be.

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

It's time to share some pictures... and a small movie!

 

kossel dellta testdrive - the movie

I'm printing @230 degrees, Ultimaker PLA, slooooow. The fan mount is not ready yet, but I managed to mount a fan using tie raps. Still huge cooling problems. I also put a fan direct on the feeder, so it hasn't chance to warm and bump the filament.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

@ultibrain; looks good, unfortunately I can't get the video to play ...

If you could share you build experience and the BOM someday .. would be appreciated. I hope to start building one myself sometime this year but still in doubt between a UM clone or a delta.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Effector mounted

Getting there...

Now to get the firmware working on the Megatronics v3

The effector is quite wobbly. I'm really curious whether this unstable thing will ever produce good quality prints :D

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Jonny, that metal delta looks like a Kossel on steroids!!!

 

Compared to the UM's the effector indeed feels - a bit - wobbly. I experience this at the Kossel too.

 

But let's tell about my experiences. @UltiArjan, you're welcome to drop by and have a look on-site. Maybe we can compile a BOM or something. By-the-way. I started building before I noticed this thread. And this thing still is a work in progress. To start with....... I needed a second printer. A spare with a decent quality. Like LARGE vases. Or statues. Not those 100% precise parts. An ultra-high delta printer seemed usefull (and cool!). So I went for the Kossel.

 

I went to the site http://www.builda3dprinter.eu. The guy behind it, really gave some great advise for I wanted a 3mm filament, and an extra high version.

 

Because I did want to run 2.85mm filament I choose for the e3d v6 bowden 3mm hotend. Ordered the hot-end on the website e3d-online.com. Received it fast. One minor thing: the blue fan shroud was very looze on the alu cooler. On the other side: my current effector does not have a fan for the printed object. So I have to fully design it myself. Some day. For now I managed to add a fan mount using tie raps....

 

I have two extra long side rods, about 1000mm, for a build size of max 55 cm high. However currently I run a 750mm rod having a 30 cm buid height. First get a working printer, after that it's time for freewheeling.... After I assembled the frame, the stability was as expected. Not too stable. However stable enough to print a fine vase... :) My plan is to make some side panels, two large K's, from blue plexiglass in the theme of the printer in Marine Blue. I also will get some dailight LED's from the IKEA, to have it look even cooler :smile:. But of course this is not the most important. I want to start printing. Soon.

 

Assembling the Kossel was, except the soldering and cabling, a piece of cake. Easy. I got the whole printer up and running in let's say 3 days. So optimistic as I was I took my printer to the monday ulti evening at the ProtoSpace in Utrecht. Got a lot of questions and offers for support during the evening. Powered it on and printed a small cup. All went well.... till... extrusion stopped. Last days I was trying to print several larger objects, no success. Somehow extrusion stopped to soon. Time after time. Spilled meters of original Ultimaker PLA, XT.

 

So I set back, took some distance and decided to recheck all trivial things....Wooha, my bad, for some kind of reason the temp sensor settings selected was not stored back on disk. As a result next compile, the wrong temperature entered the build. TEMP_SENSOR_0_1 (instead of 5 which is needed by the sensor on the kossel).

 

About the calibration.... I didn't :smile:.I just lowered the nozzle manually to X0 and Y0. Entering this as a starting point into the delta printing hight (MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS). I took the Kossel XL configuration from Ardon's website. (http://builda3dprinter.eu), these settings proved to be very precise! I carefully increased X and Y to the edges, looking at the nozzle not touching the build plate. Perfect fit, and: PEFECT first layers!!!! (Which is so cool!)

 

Now I'm printing Joris' weekly cup 34 in Orange XT. It looks PERFECT. Extrusion seems ok, now my Z axis is on Z059.20. Sitting here with a huge smile!

 

The whole thing costed me about €750,-. Delivering me a perfect first €750 euro vase :smile:

 

 

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Although printing at a real low speed. I'm hitting the sweet spot with this deltaprinter, printing XT @255 degrees, with the E3D full metal hot-end. Extrusion seems to continue without failure! Wew.

- 0.2 mm layer height

- 0.6 mm nozzle

- XT white

- Cura: 20 mm/s

- printer at 80%

The Kossel hitting the sweet spot!

After the printer finishes I go try at double speed to see the difference in quality and to test if the feeder/hot-end can keep-up.

 

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Posted · 3DR Delta Bot (continued)

Hi all,

this is just an update regarding this project, as my 3DR printer is running pretty well now. Building it was not always fun but finally it was absolutely worth it, as one learns a whole lot about 3D printers and how they work.

And last but not least meeting Stefan and Philip was great fun too and especially with Stefan a new friend was won.

Here are some photos of the finished printer and a 200mm vase printed in less than 3 hours @ 70mm/s:

 

IMG 5571

IMG 5570

IMG 5569

IMG 5568

IMG 5567

IMG 5566

IMG 5565

IMG 2703

IMG 2719

IMG 2717

Later I will upload two small files, on youmagine. One adaptor to fit the new Hall-O pcb to the original 3DR mounting and one cable guide.

EDIT: Here is a small video:

 

 

 

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