Strength of different filaments

[neotko 1,417]

Well each line of a print should work like little bones no matter what. So at any case the best way to hold weight should be to work on different parts for the same object if the design allows it. Specially ifthe object it's going get preassure on one direction. For my proyect I print my object in two parts and one of them I must print it on a 35-45dregress so it can hold z and x preassure without breaking. But ofc If you want to break it you can, as many other nonprinted objects.

[tsagos 8]

I m having similar problems with ABS. Layer are not properly bonding together. Did you guys solve this issue?

I will test printing the same part but with different orientation to see if it will make any difference in the strength of the part.

 

[zumfab 3]

It would have been terrific to have a CFABS instead or even better a CFXT (mix brands! Protopasta: I think colorfabb sells pellets... why not give it a try?)delamination.

 

You will be happy to hear Colorfabb is now producing XT-CF20, with exactly what you are asking for. Though Protoplant might not be amused

I would love to see a head to head test of the various available carbon options with regards to strenght, stiffness and electric conductivity.

 

[jeremie 13]

You will be happy to hear Colorfabb is now producing XT-CF20, with exactly what you are asking for. Though Protoplant might not be amused

I would love to see a head to head test of the various available carbon options with regards to strenght, stiffness and electric conductivity.

 

Oh yeah you bet I saw this, thanks anyway!

Sanjay (E3D) did a short but useful here: https://plus.google.com/115065176676738755459/posts/KP6WsRgLPoL

 

[ultiman 0]

I m having similar problems with ABS. Layer are not properly bonding together. Did you guys solve this issue?

I've got good results by raising the extruder temperature. I print with following settings:

Ext: 1st layer 265C, upper layers 260C.

Bed: 1st 115C, upper 110C. (C = Celcius)

 

[zumfab 3]

Oh yeah you bet I saw this, thanks anyway!

Sanjay (E3D) did a short but useful here: https://plus.google.com/115065176676738755459/posts/KP6WsRgLPoL

Did you already try any of it? I am most curious to see how it turns out for people who are not also trying to sell it The clip Sanjay printed is a useful example, but I would love to see more.

 

[tsagos 8]

I made 2 hooks for a refrigerator shelf. They broke when I put 1kg on it. Now when alter the orientation of the print it holds 3Kg.

Printed @ .14 Layer height, 250C Extr temp (first print which failed was 245C) 100C Bed temp and 100% infill.

@Ultiman. I've had warping issues with 110c on bed. Are you?

 

[ultiman 0]

...

@Ultiman. I've had warping issues with 110c on bed. Are you?

 

No. I had those with lower temperatures. Now ABS sticks so tightly to the glass that I have hard time removing the ready object, even when the glass has cooled down.

However, I have one observation: In my printer the heating element has bent down so that the glass is not in good contact with the element. It means, that the heat don't transfer from element to the glass very well. The heat sensor is in the element, so that it doesn't actually measure the glass temperature but the element temperature. So, I have no idea what the glass temperature is. And, as some areas or element are in good contact with the glass and some aren't, there probably is some temperature variation within the glass. How many degree, I don't know.

I think, that warmer is better, you don't easily get problems with too high temperature but rather with too low. I encourage to raise 1st layer nozzle temp and 1st layer bed temp. I used even 275C and 130C. But my bed can barely reach 130C, it takes 40 mins to heat up (the last 10...15C increases very slowly).

 

[Libor 0]

I recommend to print a small handsaw and cut some tyre wiith it .... I am just interested in the hardness..