Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has thought about changing the Head of the Ultimaker 2 with an E3D head, i saw they have a Bowden version (V6).

I don't know anything about it but i was wondering if it was even possible to change the head of the UM2 without changing tons of stuff?

I know it's done on the UMO but it's easier on that one as it's more hackable...

So any thoughts? Possible or complete headache?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At technical point of view I don't see why not, the 6mm rods are easy to detach from the rod clamps so the print head can be detached pretty easy.

I'ts more about the electronics and temp sensor of the E3D head that must be (made?) compatible with the UM2 PCB.

Since I don't have an UM2 I cannot check this.

If you don't have an conclusive answer from someone else by monday, I could ask it for you at the UM evening on the 6th.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Didier, I was thinking the same thing last night. I was at the TCT show yesterday and spent some time on the E3D stand, Their V6 hotend looks interesting. The default uses a 12v heater and the UM2 24v. They can supply a 24v heater but its 40w against UM2 25w. Its only another 625mA, I would hope the UM2 power supply could cope with that.

They use a thermister for temperature sensing, the UM2 uses a PT100. Farnell sells a http://uk.farnell.com/ist-innovative-sensor-technology/p0k1-161-6w-b-010/sensor-pt100-600-c-class-b/dp/1266922 that looks as if it could be clipped to the block.

Then there is the mechanics of fitting it. There are some designs on thingiverse, I'm not sure if any of them are suitable for the UM2.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could also drill a 3mm hole in the E3D hotend block and then put the PT100 from the UM2 hotend in there.

There is some spare power from the powersupply, as it is selected with dual-extrusion in mind. But there isn't a whole lot extra power there. I don't think the 40W for a single nozzle would be an issue.

You might run into feeder problems. The feeder is currently one of the weaker parts of the UM2 design. So you might want to replace that with a geared feeder as well.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

i just thougth about changing the Head of my UM2 with an E3D head. The aim for me is to get higher temperatures for printing other plastics than PLA or ABS. So I have talen a look at possible solutions for fitting an all-metal-hotend at the UM2...

First of all I found the Design of JonnyBishof for mounting the E3D v6 Head at an UMO. In his pdf-description (see link below) he also talks about fitting the e3d on an UM2 using his kind of attachment.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original#!design-information

Furthermore I found a design of Rai. However I'm not sure about using this kind of mounting for an UM2?!

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount#!design-information

Last but not least a possible fanduct design could be the following:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9

Based on this information I would ask if someone got any experience by using that kind of mounting for an E3D hotend at an UM2? Are there any problems by taking the UMO-designs for the UM2, any hints?!

Another problem might be the power suppy and the connectivity to the UM2 PCB as written down in the previous posts. Has anyone tried to connect the 24V heater at an UM2? I think using an 12V heater is not an option?!

Thanks a lot and best regards!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

About the heater 24V issue:

The UM2 design already uses 24V so using the E3D 24V heater is a perfect fit. The only thing is it takes 40W compared to 25W in the UM2 design. When you stick to single extruder the powersupply of the UM2 should be able to coupe with that according to Daid.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

About the heater 24V issue:

The UM2 design already uses 24V so using the E3D 24V heater is a perfect fit. The only thing is it takes 40W compared to 25W in the UM2 design. When you stick to single extruder the powersupply of the UM2 should be able to coupe with that according to Daid.

 

Hi Zoev89,

thanks for your quick reply!

I have read about Daid's post but I'm not sure if someone has already tested that kind of coupling (E3D 24V Version onto UM2) in real?! In the best case someone could confirm the functionality of such an connection before I'm going to buy an E3d hotend...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm also in the process of converting my UM2 to E3D. I figured it would be possible to use the Thermistor with a little hack on the UM2 board, but decided to go the mechanical way and drill a hole into the E3D hotend. I'm also aiming for higher temperatures and the E3D manual states that the thermistor will be damaged over 295ºC.

The problem is I can't position it deep enough into the aluminium so the temperature reading is a bit off. My Next step is to make a custom Aluminium block to fit the PT100 and the UM" heater in it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finished my E3D conversion. This is what it looks like.

Apart from the PID Values I did not change anything in code. The 25W heater is a bit weak fot the E3D, but it works. I'll probably switch to the E3D heater later.

Tools: 2,5mm 3mm 5mm Drills M3 + M6 tapper and a metal saw

2015 01 08 05 40 24

 

The messy cable is an external temp probe to check the temperature

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using 2 x UM2 heaters now that are also 25W so that should probably not be a problem... although the power consumption goes up when printing with higher temps on head and bed (for ABS on E3D for example). Maybe I'll measure it sometime (just on total printer consumption) after I have the E3D installed.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Curious on this topic for my UM2, I'm ready to purchase my e3d with the pt100b sensor block. My question is which heater option to go with? I presume the 24v option needs to be used, and on their site it looks like there is a 40w or 25w option, can someone confirm that the 25w needs to be used? and if so does that make it plug and play?

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there anywhere that gives specific instructions on how to get the E3D v6 mounted and running on an Ultimaker 2? I'm soooo sick of replacing the thermoplastic piece on the stock print head every time it melts/deforms from running at 250C. Every time it deforms, the drive mechanism stalls out trying to push filament through it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!