E3D Head for UM2, possible?

[DidierKlein 729]

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has thought about changing the Head of the Ultimaker 2 with an E3D head, i saw they have a Bowden version (V6).

I don't know anything about it but i was wondering if it was even possible to change the head of the UM2 without changing tons of stuff?

I know it's done on the UMO but it's easier on that one as it's more hackable...

So any thoughts? Possible or complete headache?

 

[hreedijk 4]

At technical point of view I don't see why not, the 6mm rods are easy to detach from the rod clamps so the print head can be detached pretty easy.

I'ts more about the electronics and temp sensor of the E3D head that must be (made?) compatible with the UM2 PCB.

Since I don't have an UM2 I cannot check this.

If you don't have an conclusive answer from someone else by monday, I could ask it for you at the UM evening on the 6th.

 

[woofy 12]

Didier, I was thinking the same thing last night. I was at the TCT show yesterday and spent some time on the E3D stand, Their V6 hotend looks interesting. The default uses a 12v heater and the UM2 24v. They can supply a 24v heater but its 40w against UM2 25w. Its only another 625mA, I would hope the UM2 power supply could cope with that.

They use a thermister for temperature sensing, the UM2 uses a PT100. Farnell sells a http://uk.farnell.com/ist-innovative-sensor-technology/p0k1-161-6w-b-010/sensor-pt100-600-c-class-b/dp/1266922 that looks as if it could be clipped to the block.

Then there is the mechanics of fitting it. There are some designs on thingiverse, I'm not sure if any of them are suitable for the UM2.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

@hreedijk Why not? It's more of an idea that popped in my mind today not a project but why not?

@Woofy thanks for the input, it's sure that some pieces must be designed for it to fit, i'm a total noob in electronics and stuff that's mainly why i'm asking

 

[hreedijk 4]

@hreedijk Why not? It's more of an idea that popped in my mind today not a project but why not?

 

Maybe I didn't express myself right in English so here in Dutch: "Vanuit technisch perspectief zou ik niet weten waarom dit niet zou kunnen (een andere hot-end)".

 

[Daid 306]

You could also drill a 3mm hole in the E3D hotend block and then put the PT100 from the UM2 hotend in there.

There is some spare power from the powersupply, as it is selected with dual-extrusion in mind. But there isn't a whole lot extra power there. I don't think the 40W for a single nozzle would be an issue.

You might run into feeder problems. The feeder is currently one of the weaker parts of the UM2 design. So you might want to replace that with a geared feeder as well.

 

[sequoia 0]

Hi all,

i just thougth about changing the Head of my UM2 with an E3D head. The aim for me is to get higher temperatures for printing other plastics than PLA or ABS. So I have talen a look at possible solutions for fitting an all-metal-hotend at the UM2...

First of all I found the Design of JonnyBishof for mounting the E3D v6 Head at an UMO. In his pdf-description (see link below) he also talks about fitting the e3d on an UM2 using his kind of attachment.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original#!design-information

Furthermore I found a design of Rai. However I'm not sure about using this kind of mounting for an UM2?!

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount#!design-information

Last but not least a possible fanduct design could be the following:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9

Based on this information I would ask if someone got any experience by using that kind of mounting for an E3D hotend at an UM2? Are there any problems by taking the UMO-designs for the UM2, any hints?!

Another problem might be the power suppy and the connectivity to the UM2 PCB as written down in the previous posts. Has anyone tried to connect the 24V heater at an UM2? I think using an 12V heater is not an option?!

Thanks a lot and best regards!

 

[zoev89 73]

About the heater 24V issue:

The UM2 design already uses 24V so using the E3D 24V heater is a perfect fit. The only thing is it takes 40W compared to 25W in the UM2 design. When you stick to single extruder the powersupply of the UM2 should be able to coupe with that according to Daid.

 

[sequoia 0]

About the heater 24V issue:

The UM2 design already uses 24V so using the E3D 24V heater is a perfect fit. The only thing is it takes 40W compared to 25W in the UM2 design. When you stick to single extruder the powersupply of the UM2 should be able to coupe with that according to Daid.

 

Hi Zoev89,

thanks for your quick reply!

I have read about Daid's post but I'm not sure if someone has already tested that kind of coupling (E3D 24V Version onto UM2) in real?! In the best case someone could confirm the functionality of such an connection before I'm going to buy an E3d hotend...

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Maybe you want to have a look at this thread:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/

It's a different approach than yours but it's probably worthwhile having a look

 

[th3o 0]

Maybe this can be an interesting head:

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20141212-hyrel-3d-releases-an-open-source-and-fully-customizable-printhead.html

[th3o 0]

Maybe this can be an interesting head:

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20141212-hyrel-3d-releases-an-open-source-and-fully-customizable-printhead.html

[aviphysics 9]

Maybe I didn't express myself right in English so here in Dutch: "Vanuit technisch perspectief zou ik niet weten waarom dit niet zou kunnen (een andere hot-end)".

 

Your English was perfect.

[hreedijk 4]

Your English was perfect.

 

Thanx ! :-)

 

[restinpieces 3]

I'm also in the process of converting my UM2 to E3D. I figured it would be possible to use the Thermistor with a little hack on the UM2 board, but decided to go the mechanical way and drill a hole into the E3D hotend. I'm also aiming for higher temperatures and the E3D manual states that the thermistor will be damaged over 295ºC.

The problem is I can't position it deep enough into the aluminium so the temperature reading is a bit off. My Next step is to make a custom Aluminium block to fit the PT100 and the UM" heater in it.

 

[restinpieces 3]

I finished my E3D conversion. This is what it looks like.

Apart from the PID Values I did not change anything in code. The 25W heater is a bit weak fot the E3D, but it works. I'll probably switch to the E3D heater later.

Tools: 2,5mm 3mm 5mm Drills M3 + M6 tapper and a metal saw

 

The messy cable is an external temp probe to check the temperature

 

[fabi580 0]

Have you tested tested the v6 with pla so far??

if yes how is it working??

 

[restinpieces 3]

I have printed only ABS so far. I'll probably never test PLA because I'm quite happy with the ABS. Its as easy printable as PLA for me and has nicer properties. I will try PC and PA as soon as I get the 40W heater.

 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

E3D now has a PT100 upgrade kit for the Ultimaker2 , I just ordered one

http://e3d-online.com/Electrical/V6-PT100-Sensor-Kit?limit=100

And they also have 25W heaters.

[neotko 1,417]

Woa also cheaper than the one from ultimaker and better than china options (since it comes with the connector). Very nice!

[neotko 1,417]

Also very intersting for umo+ users so with that heater it might be posible to use 2 heaters withou getting a new power supply...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I'm using 2 x UM2 heaters now that are also 25W so that should probably not be a problem... although the power consumption goes up when printing with higher temps on head and bed (for ABS on E3D for example). Maybe I'll measure it sometime (just on total printer consumption) after I have the E3D installed.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Oh, and the E3D shop is well under control... ship confirm & T&T number 2 hours after ordering !

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Curious on this topic for my UM2, I'm ready to purchase my e3d with the pt100b sensor block. My question is which heater option to go with? I presume the 24v option needs to be used, and on their site it looks like there is a 40w or 25w option, can someone confirm that the 25w needs to be used? and if so does that make it plug and play?

Edited July 21, 2015 by Guest

[BillDem 1]

Is there anywhere that gives specific instructions on how to get the E3D v6 mounted and running on an Ultimaker 2? I'm soooo sick of replacing the thermoplastic piece on the stock print head every time it melts/deforms from running at 250C. Every time it deforms, the drive mechanism stalls out trying to push filament through it.