I've been pondering about steel:
It is possibly much more resistant to chemical abrasion, like when printing glowfill,
and its somewhat harder than brass.. so really exciting to see what it can do!
One drawback is that it is mediocre conductor of low frequent electromagnetic
radiation, especially when stainless, and I expect therefore longer heating times and slower printing.
Hi Melkolo! It is easier if you can cut off the plug first, then push /pull it through with the old cable.. and
re-attach/re-mount the plug.
The quick and dirty way is to put the cable "next to the black sleeve".
So sorry about your sensor..
The quick and dirty way is to put the cable "next to the black sleeve
@melkolo - I haven't had to do this yet but I think this idea is best - just run it on the outside of the existing cable sleeve.
Thanks for the feedback, did exactly what swordriff described......bummer on the sensor...it's still good just stuck in the past.
I have the same problem with my sensor. I opened a ticket with UM support, expecting them to send me a block and a sensor like they have apparently already done for other people in the past that had the same issue, but the only advice I got was to soak the block and the sensor in WD40 over night and then try again :( In the meantime I got a new sensor from swordriff (Thanks!), so I will mount my custom block with that sensor and then try the WD40. Not sure if that will not destroy more than it will help, though.
A few months ago I managed to pull the cable including connector through the sleeve .... (with a string I had taped to the old cable while removing) but you have to be very carefull as there are multiple connectors in the sleeve you dont want damaged ...
Attention! Everybody, who like reibuehl personally travels from continental Europe to Oslo to pick up the Block, gets a free temp sensor! Thanks
How many do you have swordriff?
Hello Swordriff, I got your packet with the shiny new hot end with replaceable nozzles today.
I had been wondering in the last days about this "Anders Key" and where on earth would I get the metal piece. So it was really AMAZING to find, without warnings and without asking, the key in the packet. Great move.
Thanks to you and Anders for the outstanding job. Those are the things that make me really love my UM2, the amazing community that works to extend the possibilities of the machine to make it better, and then share. I just love this, so thank you.
Will now go through the thread to learn about mounting the new hotend. I see that there is possibly a problem with taking out the temp sensor from the original hot end, so I will first study carefully everything before I actually proceed with the job.
Just in case I break the sensor, would a reprap style temp sensor be fine as replacement, instead of the original UM2 sensor? I have a bunch of those around.
Also, I have seen your mention about "3dSolex I2K" heat isolator and Teflon coupler", I am very interested. Can you put me in the list, is there a list?
Cheers - PD
Personal Drones!
Cool to have you on board!
The reprap style thermocoupler will not work, unfortunately!
You just have to be careful removing the existing cartridge!
The "I2K" (Isolator 2000, because it is made from the Tecasint 2000 family of Polyimide), will
be available shortly! Ill let you know.
Thank you! Lets see som fantastic prints soon...
Good find on the Tecasint.
Looks like the 2061 would be the preferred one.
Have you done much testing so far?
Also do we know what the glass transaction temp of the standard is?
Personal Drones!
Cool to have you on board!
The reprap style thermocoupler will not work, unfortunately!
You just have to be careful removing the existing cartridge!
The "I2K" (Isolator 2000, because it is made from the Tecasint 2000 family of Polyimide), will
be available shortly! Ill let you know.
Thank you! Lets see som fantastic prints soon...
Put me down for a couple please! :-)
I'm interested in both the new heater block and the new isolator!
It works so perfekt, should be the standard version for Ultimaker 2
In 10 Seconds from 0.8mm (woodfill) to 0.25 Bronzefill and back to 0.4
And Please put me on the nex list (if there is one) for the "I2K" 
Oh dear,
ChrisR!
I am not sure I can ship an I2K to you, since it is an unclassified material, and the material has more "value" than its use, and you are not in Schengen, I may need a so called "End User Certificate".
You can try and obtain one here: https://www.gov.uk/dealing-with-hmrc/paying-hmrc.
***
CCW1984: Since the stuff was developed by NASA, I am confident I can ship it with the original documents that
is issued with every manufacture.
***
Everyone else, except Russia; N.Zealand and Australia, No problem.
Product White Paper:
With the I2K you will be able to print at a sustained 310C, possibly without damaging the Teflon coupler for a long time.
There is an I4K in development which will survive burning down the house. ( This is not a joke).
These are some informal characteristics of the wafer, which will buffer the teflon coupler:
I like the 4th and 5th last line best!
It works so perfekt, should be the standard version for Ultimaker 2In 10 Seconds from 0.8mm (woodfill) to 0.25 Bronzefill and back to 0.4
And Please put me on the nex list (if there is one) for the "I2K"
Jep. Love the huge time saving from printing 0.6/0.8 specially for mechanical parts. Just did a 4 hour print that would have been at least 11hrs at my usual settings.
Also tried the .25 but dont think ill use it much. Just dont have the patience for it 
.25 is for really tiny stuff. Like printing a frog on a penny. Look at these stunningly, amazingly small prints - let all the photos load for a minute before scrolling down:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?282,179746
Heads up on the sensor removal.
Had the same problem when I changed my custom block.
I don't think that any kind of penetrative lubricant will work as the small threaded rod that holds in the sensor and heater damages the sensor casing. The tread bites into it locking it in. If you haven't already pulled the wire out of the casing as I did there are two options.
1. If there is any of the casing sticking out the back of the block grip it with some pliers and twist it out.
2. I've read some place that you can drill a small hole in the front of the block and push it out.
As for replacement of the sensor it's not as difficult as it looks.
Edit** Turn off the machine at the mains first. You don't want to die before you try out your new block now do you
1. Cut the sensor off at the block.
2. Turn up machine on its side to access the bottom.
3. Remove the board cover.
4. Remove the screws mounting the board.
5. Unplug old sensor and pull it through the mesh tube.
6. Pull back the cable shrink from both ends of the mesh tube.
7. Feed the new sensor into the mesh from the board end. This bit is a fiddle but so long as you hold the mesh as the end and work it through you'll have no problem. Looks much neater also.
8. Plug in the connector.
9. To replace the cable shrink at both ends of the mesh tube, pinch and wrap the mesh around the cables and twist the shrink up on to the mesh.
10. Put it all back together and feel proud!
11. REMEMBER TO LEVEL THE BED AND CHANGE NOZZLES AT PRINTING TEMP!
!!WARNING!! During this process you will feel like a parent operating on there own child, so you might need someone to wipe you brow now and then.
From someone that had to do this a little while back, your comment about a parent operating on their own child is spot on. I was so sure i was going to break my UM2, but it was actually quite easy.
.25 is for really tiny stuff. Like printing a frog on a penny. Look at these stunningly, amazingly small prints - let all the photos load for a minute before scrolling down:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?282,179746
Thats funny. I'm normally more into practical stuff, but tried a marvin on .25 but was not impressed by the quality, guess I need more practice. Will give it a go again soon.
0.25 needs layer height 0.10
Lesser height has not worked for me.
Also, bed gap more generous than one
might think.
Print temp higher 1st layer, pause, "manually press 1st layer onto bed"
Resume.
swordriff, i have printed at 0.04 with the 0.25mm nozzle as i showed before, and i belive i would be able to print even thinner layers, i used a thicker first layer tough (think i used 0.16mm for the first layer)
Jep. Love the huge time saving from printing 0.6/0.8 specially for mechanical parts. Just did a 4 hour print that would have been at least 11hrs at my usual settings.
Also tried the .25 but dont think ill use it much. Just dont have the patience for it
Yep! It's been mostly 0.8mm all the time here. Tried it at 0.6mm layer height - fascinating to watch - like toothpaste squeezing out of a tube. :-D
Oh dear,
ChrisR!
I am not sure I can ship an I2K to you, since it is an unclassified material, and the material has more "value" than its use, and you are not in Schengen, I may need a so called "End User Certificate".
You can try and obtain one here: https://www.gov.uk/dealing-with-hmrc/paying-hmrc.
You are a very bad man Mr swordriff! :-P
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melkolo 5
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I received the new blocks and nozzle....When switching to the new block the heater cartridge released / came out with no problem....but the temp sensor didn't. I do two spare....problem is how do I thread this back to the control board under the UM2....Is there a certain procedure? Is there a easy way to do this. Please advise...thanks in advance.
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