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Anders Olsson

Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

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I found that having the standard 1mm gap from the Stainless isolator to the PTFE coupler top bit. the new 3dSolex "The Olsson Block" hits the Ultimaker Fan shroud. I would have to increase the gap to about 3mm to get any clearance. Has anyone else experienced the same. ( not at home so cant post photo )

 

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I found that having the standard 1mm gap from the Stainless isolator to the PTFE coupler top bit. the new 3dSolex "The Olsson Block" hits the Ultimaker Fan shroud. I would have to increase the gap to about 3mm to get any clearance. Has anyone else experienced the same. ( not at home so cant post photo )

 

No, for me 1mm is ok, still have about a half mm between the block and the fan shroud. It helps a bit to loosen the 4 screws on the fan shroud and pull it down while tightening.

 

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LETS GET SOME TERMS STRAIGHT (these are Ultimakers words - not mine):

Isolator - The white teflon part

Isolater Nut - the steel round nut that rotates and has 6 holes with which you can stick a metal stick through to rotate it

The UM2 head is designed to have adjustable nozzle height so that you can have TWO extruders. It is important that they be the exact same height within about .01mm (1/10th the width of paper). So it is precisely adjustable with the isolator nut.

It's important that the isolator touches the heater block with no gap - otherwise plastic can get in there and cause problems so you should be able to see *some* gap between the isolator nut and the isolator. But more than 1mm of gap is starting to put too much pressure on the spring above. You *should* be able to raise and lower the nozzle without taking anything apart but in practice I think one needs some kind of special tool and since we don't have dual extrusion there is no need.

 

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Hi swordriff,

thanks for the detailed reply - indeed it is a great community :wink:.

Here another 3 questions:

1. Please tell me what does --"-- mean? I still need an answer where to get the other nozzles from. Particularily I am interested in 0.6 and 0.8 mm ones.

2. Will the isolator be sold by the same companies like the 3DSolex "The Olsson Block"? If yes I will wait until the isolator will be available to save some shipping ocst. :wink:

3. I visited http://3dverkstan.se but could not find the 3DSolex in theri shop - do I have to contact them by eMail?

(unfortunately the site is in swedish only :sad:)

 

 

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Hi!

--"-- means same as above.. the reply to question 2 is the same as to question 1.

The isolator and nozzles are sold by the same company.. shortly.

www.3dverkstan.se have an incredibly well developed customer service department,

and one of the hottest contributors to this forum (iroberti) is perhaps most famous for his

alternative filament extruder and printing advice..

3dSolex will not carry 0.6 nozzles, you can buy that from http://shop.deltatower.ch/Extruder-und-Hotends:::7.html?MODsid=6hv44d4vmr14ect6t12a48s226

-which I recommend for their top top quality.

You could buy from E3D in UK also, they ship incredibly fast too!

3dSolex will have 0.25-0.40-0.80 nozzles only.

THIS IS A MUST STUDY, for beginners and everyone else..

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9250-a-few-tips-on-designing-for-3d-printing/

 

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Quote:

 

It's important that the isolator touches the heater block with no gap - otherwise plastic can get in there and cause problems so you should be able to see *some* gap between the isolator nut and the isolator.

 

This is illogical...

 

This is logical.

- no gap between isolator and heater block

- "some" gap between isolator nut and isolator

 

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LETS GET SOME TERMS STRAIGHT (these are Ultimakers words - not mine):

Isolator - The white teflon part

Isolater Nut - the steel round nut that rotates and has 6 holes with which you can stick a metal stick through to rotate it.

 

On the github drawings it says:

ptfe isolator coupler - white teflon bit

Hot end isolator - steel round nut.

so got my terms from there.

But yours do sound better.

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Hi,

since I am a newbee and don't want to damage anything on my UM2 it would be great if someone from the experts here could provide some easy technical drawing how to correctly mount the 3DSolex.

Since I read that it is important to have a gap here but no gap there and so on it is very difficult to understand by text, especially if engils is not the native language.

So I really would appreciate any drawing which shows what to put where at which distance and so on.

This will lower the hurdle for any user to replace the stock heater by a 3DSolex one.

Thanks...

 

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3Dnerd:

Just install The Olsson Block. When you re-attach the Hot end isolator - steel round nut, the one with the radial holes in it, make shure it is not screwed down so far that it touches the brass. You will be fine. This is not a problem.

The possible problem is removing the temp sensor. It may break if it does not come off easily.

"Our own design coming out soon Has

025.040.080.

 

Does that mean any of the E3D nozzle can be used with 3DSolex?

What is the difference of your nozzles compared to E3D?

 

You can use E3D nozzles, UMO nozzles, and other nozzles with an M6x1mm threading.

 

The oncoming batch of 3dSolex "The Olsson Block" will ship with E3D nozzles, which are high quality.

 

We are currently developing our own Nozzles, called "JETs", which will have a different geometry inside,

a lower mass and save a little build height. The engineering samples have proven to provide a

cleaner Atomic release.

 

It is unclear when the JETs will be available.

 

Atomic method: https://www.google.no/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=atomic%20method

 

There are discussions on the forum about it too, and slight variations.

 

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Hi gr5 and swordriff,

thanks - great, I think with this I can start.

So I will wait with ordering until the isolator is available as well.

Then I have to pay shipping cost only one time and need to unmount / mount only one time as well.

Will someone of you announce here when the new isolator is available or send me an PM?

 

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My block is installed. No problems with the sensor removal at all, although I had to mess with the locking ring and turn the sensor/heater a bit to retain both of them in the new block.

So I started testing with the .4 nozzle and the printer is failing with "heater error". It seems when the fans kick on the temp drops by 5-10C and I'm guessing that is triggering this error.

I've re-run the pid auto-tune, entered the values and saved them to memory. I'm also using the stock fan shroud.

If I shut the fans off no error occurs and the temp stays around 1-2C of the target.

 

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Twistx

Try this:

Turn the machine on. Try to gently wiggle the heat sensor wire with your fingers, do you get the same error? If so, you might have nicked the wires. The fans' vibrations might be causing the wires to touch each other (if exposed), or open circuit (if nicked a lot). Otherwise, I don't see how the fans can cause an error.

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