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Anders Olsson

Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

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Hi!

"Do you think it steel nozzle will even work with PLA? "

Steel nozzle will work with PLA, but with standard PLA it is not necessary, since it will "never" wear out.

Steel conducts temperature much poorer than brass, so you may have to print slower.

 

"How abrasive could it get on the block itself?"

Look,, the hole in top of the block between the teflon coupler and the nozzle entry, when the nozzle is inserted, is ca 3.2mm wide and 7mm long. It will widen with time and this has no consequence.

If the entry hole on the top of the block was smaller than the exit hole of the Teflon,

THEN you have a problem the next day:

You start the machine, and want to print.

The nozzle and (Olsson?) block get hot and everything in it is fluid (except carbonized plastic sticking to the walls).

Now, when you start printing, the hard piece of plastic which coagulated inside the Teflon piece yesterday has a higher diameter than the hot-end-top-end, and will not slide into the hot (Olsson?!, - or any ) block.

Instead, it needs to melt its way down, while touching only the top of the block.

This causes skipping and start problems.

When the hard, bigger plastic has passed into the Block, things return to normal..

Does it make sense?

Facit: Over time, the inner dia of the block will widen, of no immediate consequence.

 

 

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The I2Ks are delayed because it is difficult to source the right material.

I have decided to ship everything else, and send the I2K later, looks like 1-2 weeks.

I have to report another working Olsson block.

I'm sure the temp sensor had a "near death experience" - i threatened him with the replacement part - but finally it survived! :)

One more quick question..:

What about these "if you do not miss it, you do not need it" - ImPossiBiliuM coupler?

I'm missing it... :)

Any news from the test lab or even a "start of sale" date?

 

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The I2Ks are delayed because it is difficult to source the right material.

I have decided to ship everything else, and send the I2K later, looks like 1-2 weeks.

 

Got my I2K from the previous batch yesterday, thank you Swordriff. Installed it together with a brand new teflon coupler, everything looking perfect so far. Will check my teflon coupler in 200 hours of print or so to see if I get the expected protection from deformation. If it really works as advertised (I am sure about that), this will be a little game changer in itself, while waiting for the Impossibilium thing.

 

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I recommend increasing the gap over the steel coupler from the "usual" 1mm or so by 1.5mm to also include the thickness of the I2k.

Basically, take the Teflon out, slip the I2K in, re-seat the Teflon. The said gap is now bigger by the thickness of the I2K wafer.

This increases the pressure somewhat, reducing the chances for leak. The Teflon can take the increased pressure because it does not get nearly so hot now..

Thanks reibuehl for the report!

Theoretically there is an increased chance of leak, because we have 2 hard(-ish) surfaces against each other, between I2K and Olsson Block. Without, there is a good connection between Teflon and brass.

To counter this increase leak chance, we recommend increasing pressure somewhat!

Mr Olsson has reported no leak, and has now many hundred hours printing, and we can be grateful for all testing he is doing.

On his advice, the IPM coupler is delayed from the market until tested further. You cannot destroy it, but we need to find out which materials stick to it when cold, if any.

The coupler is made of a material which: A) does not decompose at temperatures below 290C, B) does not stick well to plastic C) Is a good thermal insulator, contrary to brass.

 

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For all followers of the Olsson block who also use the Tinker firmware:

If you don't want to work through the whole bed levelling wizard after each nozzle change:

It turned out that the function "Adjust Z position" (a submenu of the expert settings) works pretty well for this purpose.

It's still importand not to forget this step... :roll: - but it works a bit more "straight forward" this way.

Um2 geek printing 19

Um2 geek printing 20

 

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Maybe a small hint for replacing the original UM nozzle by the Olsson block:

 

I accomplished this without disassembling the whole printing head.

 

My way to replace it was as follows:

 

 

  • do an Atomic clean of the UM nozzle
  • remove the set of side fans by loosening two screws on the left and right (in total only 4 screws)
  • this gives access to the original UM nozzle/heaterblock
  • now heat up the nozzle to ~ 190 °C to soften stuck filament in the hot end isolator area (the coupler with the holes on the side)
  • with that you are now able to remove the original UM nozzle without any force by rotating the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key
  • cool down the nozzle
  • remove the setscrew from the original UM nozzle/heaterblock
  • remove the heater cartridge and temp sensor (be careful! read the posts above about how to remove both without damaging them)
  • now you have to ensure that the spring pushes the PTFE coupler down so that no gap is visible between the hot end isolator and the PTFE coupler (maybe by rotating the PTFE coupler with a small pair of pliers)
  • remove the screw from the Olsson block
  • insert the heater cartride and temp sensor into the Olsson block
  • place the screw back into the Olsson block
  • mount the Olsson block on the print head by screwing it into the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key
  • rotate the hot end isolator until the gap between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator is becoming ca. 1 mm
  • mount the set of side fans by fastening the two screws on the left and right of the print head
  • ensure that the metal where the side fans are mounted is not touching the Olsson block
  • before mounting the nozzle do a bed leveling with setting the gap between Olsson block and bed to ca. 2 cm
  • mount the nozzle into the Olsson block
  • level the bed
  • finished

 

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Just did a second print with some adjusted settings:

 

  • Nozzle: 0,8 mm
  • Layer height: 0,3 mm
  • Print speed: 50 mm/s -> 30 mm/s
  • Temp: 210 -> 225°C
  • Fill Density: 100 %

Here is the comparison picture:

Olsson block 2

Looks smoother now. However, this is still a 0,3 mm layer print. For high quality surfaces you have to go down to 0,1 mm layer height. However, for a technical print where the function of the part is important, the 0,3 mm layer height together with the 0,8 mm nozzle gives you a much, much, much quicker 'happy' finish! :cool:

 

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Hi,

yesterday I received my 3DSolex aka 'The Olson Block', thanks again swordriff for the fast delivery!

I want to print the torque wrench first (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench), but I have few questions:

1.

What is the correct orientation for the parts to print, In Cura I placed them like this:

Ps16nsl.jpg

Is this the correct orientation for both parts to print? Or do I have to rotate any of the two parts by 180 degrees (upside down)?

2. What print settings are recommended in Cura? On 3DSolex page it is recommended to use 'auto' setting for the fan, but in Cura I don't have any 'auto' setting. What about settings like:

- Layer height

- Shell thickness

- Enable retraction

- Fill denisty (is mentioned on 3DSolex.com -> set to 100%)

- Support type

- Platform adhesion type

- Initial layer thickness

- Initial layer width

- Travel speed

- Bottom layer speed

- Infill speed

- Top/bottom speed

- Outer shell speed

- Inner shell speed

- Enable cooling fan (settings?)

 

3.

I want to print in ABS since it can resist higher temperatures, but ABS is a littlebit more flexible compared to PLA.

But if ABS is more flexible then the torque value is less compared to PLA.

So the nozzle is skrewed a littlebit weaker into the basis if the Olson block compared to PLA.

Is this important?

 

 

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Good post!

Instead of writing up all the settings I use, I reply so we can all remind oursleves how to investigate similar issues ourselves!

This is an "uncritical " item, there is no spec or tolerance available for the Torque..

Anders likes to print ABS, I prefer PLA.

It is correct that it releases at higher torque with PLA than ABS, by quite a margin.

Personally I like that it is a bit stronger and gives the nozzle an extra "bite" in the block.

Temperature will effect both equally so not much difference in practice there.

Use a standard setting in Cura, play with it! It works the first time, the design is really

beautiful and forgiving (thanks, Mr Olsson!).

HOWEVER: If you print it with a too large nozzle there wont be any "release fan!.

Try it, set nozzle to 0.8, then check layer view if you cant wait to print.

ALWAYS USE LAYER VIEW to see how it comes out.

Then you can play with, and see the result of many settings without actially

having to print the item, higly recommended.

The good ol`boys in here ALWAYS use layer view to check that they did not forget a setting,

as an exmple in the expert settings from the "previous" print.

Please, can you post your print then later on?

If you print the fan upside down, you are in overhang area for a long time, and you can experiment with temp and speed etc while you are printint to find the best result.. maybe?

Some people print the two items in two different colours, looks good!

Unfortunately, they cannot do it at the same time... yet!

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Hi,

yesterday I received my 3DSolex aka 'The Olson Block', thanks again swordriff for the fast delivery!

I want to print the torque wrench first (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench), but I have few questions:

 

Print them the way they are oriented when downloaded (the internal part in your image should be the other way around).

You can generally use default settings for PLA / ABS. (But make sure that you adjust the diameter setting if your filament is not 2,85 mm)

The design was made to be as forgiving as possible, so I don't expect you to end up with problems printing it. Unless maybe if you use the blue Ultimaker PLA, which is notoriously difficult to print.

The torque will vary a bit between ABS, PLA and XT, but they are all within the limits.

I generally use the ABS version, which has the lowest torque of the three.

There is actually quite a lot of information in the description/comments by the way: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench

:smile:

 

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Hello Everyone

Who can share information about Tinker Firmware. Does it have advantages over Cura? Is it difficult it install? Can Cura firmware be re-installed?

Mel

 

The post 26.

The recent version is based on 15.02.1 (aka: the version that comes with the current stable Cura version).

It can be installed on the Ultimaker2 via Cura -> Machine -> Install custom firmware.

(Re-)Installing the default firmware is possible at any time.

Join us at the other thread, if you like.

 

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Hi,

thanks for all suggestions printing the torque wrenche (see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/page-24 #475)

 

I printed it now using ABS at 250°, look here:

ywW8cbD.jpg

and here:

tmEfu6Q.jpg

I printed like I presented on the image in #475, means the 'wings' of the inner part touching the glass plate.

I had no problems doing so, as you can see on the images.

If somebody is interested in the settings I used here they are. I did two single printjobs one by one.

- Layer height: 0.15

- Shell thickness: 1.0

- Enable retraction: activated with standard settings

- Fill denisty: 100%

- Print speed: 50

- Support type: none

- Platform adhesion type: none

- nozzle size (UM2 stock nozzle): 0.4

- Initial layer thickness: 0.2

- Initial layer width: 100

- Travel speed: 150

- Bottom layer speed: 30

- Infill speed: 100

- Top/bottom speed: 30

- Outer shell speed: 40

- Inner shell speed: 80

- Enable cooling fan: disabled

Printbed temperature: 90°

The first try I printed on the glass plate directly, but after around 10 layers the part came loose.

I put some 50mm Kapton tape on the glass and now it sticks strongly - even after cooling down.

So for small parts I really recommend to try Kapton tape!

Before putting both parts together I print the inner part again now. As Anders Olsson recommended I print the inner part upside down now, like in the STL file.

 

 

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