Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[memory556 18]

Just ordered my block with extra nozzles from gr5. Look forward to trying this out!

[jprochnow 2]

I'm looking to order this block but does anyone know if they sell a 1.75 mm version?

[swordriff 119]

1.75 is on its way, currently in test!

[Labern 774]

 

@swordriff I sent you an email about 1.75. Would like to get some extra info.

[swordriff 119]

Ships today to you with the upgraded 0.15mm nozzle JET15x and Teflon for 1.75 and 4.2mm Bowden receptacle! Good luck!!

[jprochnow 2]

Is there anyway I can get included in testing? Or when do you expect this to be released?

[memory556 18]

I'm willing to help out with testing as well. If I can be of any help with it.

[swordriff 119]

1.75mm filament Ultimaker 2

Olsson block

Covered: Block/Nozzle/Teflon  (Even I2k !!!)

Possibly covered : Bowden tube in existing mounts (6.x outer dia).

Not verified: Which feeder, does original work with 1,75, other feeders)

@memory556 contact @gr5

@jprochnow  please update your profile with machine and location etc, then PM me.

Edited August 30, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

The um2 robert feeder should work with 1.75 but too much spring preassure with too fast retracts makes the filament easy to break. On my setup I changed from the um2 bolt to a mk7 (very easy to calculate the esteps with the reprap calculator. 1.75 filament with 40mm/s (I use 40mm/s retract speed with no problems but it's safer to go 30mm/s) retract speed works well with mk7 but with the stock bolt of um2 I would relax the feeder tension or it will break. Also with filaments like carbon that are more brittle and wood or alike the tension must be 'just right' not too much not too low.

Also when using robert feeder one must check that the bearing it's really well aligned (if using mk7) so the filament doesn't get crush or pushed to a side.

Also retract amount can be lower from the stock option to 2.80-3.20 and temps for colorfabb allow a 8mm3 at 210C for faberdashery it use to need 5-10C more.

Just dropping tips if that can help.

Also mind that this temps are on umo+ head so the hot zone it's a bit bigger (I think?) so it might need a few C more on um2?)

Edited August 30, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

For alignment in the feeder it could be worth trying a bearing with a small groove....

[memory556 18]

 

@ultiarjan Like a concave bearing?

[neotko 1,417]

That sure would help but I been using mk7 with roberts on my umo+ for around 3 months and it works just nice. Ofc I use mk7. The bolt of um2 it's designed for 3mm and it works but I got more errors with it that the mk7. I got two one from reprap europe and other from e3d. Both work great but I preffer the reprapworls since the filament sita better imo.

Edit. A concave bearing might make the um2 bolt to work much better now that I think of that. Anyhow mine works nice.

Edited August 31, 2015 by Guest

[memory556 18]

Ya. I just had that thought since I use concave bearing on my yo-yos all the time.

Yes I yo-yo. lol

[neotko 1,417]

They are the same but different. Both work great.

The short one from reprap has also another advantage. You can set a 8mm-5mm long 'thingy' (flexible coupler) to prime manually the extruder.

Edited August 31, 2015 by Guest

[memory556 18]

Oh! I meant on Roberts feeder, to use a concaved ball bearing on it with the stock feeder knurled sleeve.

Would those be replacements for that?

[neotko 1,417]

I mean too on roberts feeder.

[memory556 18]

Oh. lol Well we have the same basic concept. I just put it on the ball bearing now the actual feeder.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I can't find it anymore but an UM engineer once shared a paper with a comparison of different types of drivewheels, I believe part of the conclusion was that the concave types like the MK7 were more prone to pollution (grooves get filled up by pla) than the knurled wheel like on the Ultimaker 2. Thats why I thought it might be better to have the concave shape in the bearing.

maybe someday I'll see if I can find a concave bearing that fits my feeder to try it out....

[gr5 2,167]

UM did experiments with the MK7 feeder wheel and found that it had the best grip at first but that PLA got stuck in the cracks and didn't fall out very well. The knurled sleeve just worked much better and is self cleaning even though the grip isn't as good as the MK7 at first, the MK7 needs constant cleaning.

[gr5 2,167]

@jprochnow @memory556 and anyone else in the USA interested in 1.75 conversion.

Please email me at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com

I have some kits on the way to USA and I can give you more details. These are still "beta" testing kits.

[neotko 1,417]

Well in just my personal experience this months with the umo feeder with knurted bolt and roberts feeder I had more problema with the knurted bolt getting full of pla and slipping. But mind that my 1.75 filament it's thinner and easier to break than 2.85. I had to clean the knurted bolt way too many times compared to the mk7.

But that's just a test without much sense now that I think out loud since the tension from the stock feeder it's much higher and on the robert feeder I use a 60mm screw with some nylon nuts to make it 40-45mm. Also umo stock feeder makes too much preassure to be reliable for 1.75. So it would be nice for some um2 beta user to check by themselves with a real propper test.

Edited August 31, 2015 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Just out of curiosity: What is the advantage of the 1.75mm conversion?

[neotko 1,417]

Just out of curiosity: What is the advantage of the 1.75mm conversion?

 

Not manys except if you go dual. My personal experience it's at https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16979-ultimaker-175mm-filament-10mm3-s-speed-test

This was done before changing the shafts to misumi and gt2 belt/pulleys

Edited August 31, 2015 by Guest

[Nicolinux 288]

Just out of curiosity: What is the advantage of the 1.75mm conversion?

 

The thinner filament is easier to handle. I've had some experience with a Delta printer where the extruder was able to pull the filament no matter what (even if the roll was just sitting on the floor or was tangled). It always worked and there was no skipping or under extrusion.

Also 3mm filament is stiff and stubborn. 1.75mm isn't likely to poke your eye out

[Nicolinux 288]

Hey guys,

Any news on the new hardened nozzles? I have a huge project to print in XT-CF20 and the steel nozzle is troublesome. Now would be a good time to release the awesomeness... just sayin'