Thanks a lot. Makes sense.
I'm now wondering if I should take a steel nozzle or 3 brass nozzle instead for the same price haha.
Thanks a lot. Makes sense.
I'm now wondering if I should take a steel nozzle or 3 brass nozzle instead for the same price haha.
The I2Ks are delayed because it is difficult to source the right material.
I have decided to ship everything else, and send the I2K later, looks like 1-2 weeks.
I have to report another working Olsson block.
I'm sure the temp sensor had a "near death experience" - i threatened him with the replacement part - but finally it survived!
One more quick question..:
What about these "if you do not miss it, you do not need it" - ImPossiBiliuM coupler?
I'm missing it...
Any news from the test lab or even a "start of sale" date?
Hi . It will be tested for stickyness first.
Ill post a date later. Thank you!
BTW, the nozzles for UMO work very well with the Olsson Block!
The I2Ks are delayed because it is difficult to source the right material.
I have decided to ship everything else, and send the I2K later, looks like 1-2 weeks.
Got my I2K from the previous batch yesterday, thank you Swordriff. Installed it together with a brand new teflon coupler, everything looking perfect so far. Will check my teflon coupler in 200 hours of print or so to see if I get the expected protection from deformation. If it really works as advertised (I am sure about that), this will be a little game changer in itself, while waiting for the Impossibilium thing.
I have about 50 hours of ABS printing at 260°C now on my I2K and everything looks fine up to now. No leakages, no material stuck yet.
I recommend increasing the gap over the steel coupler from the "usual" 1mm or so by 1.5mm to also include the thickness of the I2k.
Basically, take the Teflon out, slip the I2K in, re-seat the Teflon. The said gap is now bigger by the thickness of the I2K wafer.
This increases the pressure somewhat, reducing the chances for leak. The Teflon can take the increased pressure because it does not get nearly so hot now..
Thanks reibuehl for the report!
Theoretically there is an increased chance of leak, because we have 2 hard(-ish) surfaces against each other, between I2K and Olsson Block. Without, there is a good connection between Teflon and brass.
To counter this increase leak chance, we recommend increasing pressure somewhat!
Mr Olsson has reported no leak, and has now many hundred hours printing, and we can be grateful for all testing he is doing.
On his advice, the IPM coupler is delayed from the market until tested further. You cannot destroy it, but we need to find out which materials stick to it when cold, if any.
The coupler is made of a material which: A) does not decompose at temperatures below 290C, B) does not stick well to plastic C) Is a good thermal insulator, contrary to brass.
This Olsson block is so amazing. :-P
A technical print which took me formerly 2 hours is now finished within less than half an hour. :-P :cool: :cool:
Settings:
For all followers of the Olsson block who also use the Tinker firmware:
If you don't want to work through the whole bed levelling wizard after each nozzle change:
It turned out that the function "Adjust Z position" (a submenu of the expert settings) works pretty well for this purpose.
It's still importand not to forget this step... :roll: - but it works a bit more "straight forward" this way.
sigi! at 226 maybe better! You have an insane throughput at these figures,
very roughly like 200mms w 040 nozzle!
sigi! at 226 maybe better! You have an insane throughput at these figures,very roughly like 200mms w 040 nozzle!
Thanks for this hint! I will try that the next time. :-)
Maybe a small hint for replacing the original UM nozzle by the Olsson block:
I accomplished this without disassembling the whole printing head.
My way to replace it was as follows:
Just did a second print with some adjusted settings:
Here is the comparison picture:
Looks smoother now. However, this is still a 0,3 mm layer print. For high quality surfaces you have to go down to 0,1 mm layer height. However, for a technical print where the function of the part is important, the 0,3 mm layer height together with the 0,8 mm nozzle gives you a much, much, much quicker 'happy' finish! :cool:
Hi,
yesterday I received my 3DSolex aka 'The Olson Block', thanks again swordriff for the fast delivery!
I want to print the torque wrench first (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench), but I have few questions:
1.
What is the correct orientation for the parts to print, In Cura I placed them like this:
Is this the correct orientation for both parts to print? Or do I have to rotate any of the two parts by 180 degrees (upside down)?
2. What print settings are recommended in Cura? On 3DSolex page it is recommended to use 'auto' setting for the fan, but in Cura I don't have any 'auto' setting. What about settings like:
- Layer height
- Shell thickness
- Enable retraction
- Fill denisty (is mentioned on 3DSolex.com -> set to 100%)
- Support type
- Platform adhesion type
- Initial layer thickness
- Initial layer width
- Travel speed
- Bottom layer speed
- Infill speed
- Top/bottom speed
- Outer shell speed
- Inner shell speed
- Enable cooling fan (settings?)
3.
I want to print in ABS since it can resist higher temperatures, but ABS is a littlebit more flexible compared to PLA.
But if ABS is more flexible then the torque value is less compared to PLA.
So the nozzle is skrewed a littlebit weaker into the basis if the Olson block compared to PLA.
Is this important?
Good post!
Instead of writing up all the settings I use, I reply so we can all remind oursleves how to investigate similar issues ourselves!
This is an "uncritical " item, there is no spec or tolerance available for the Torque..
Anders likes to print ABS, I prefer PLA.
It is correct that it releases at higher torque with PLA than ABS, by quite a margin.
Personally I like that it is a bit stronger and gives the nozzle an extra "bite" in the block.
Temperature will effect both equally so not much difference in practice there.
Use a standard setting in Cura, play with it! It works the first time, the design is really
beautiful and forgiving (thanks, Mr Olsson!).
HOWEVER: If you print it with a too large nozzle there wont be any "release fan!.
Try it, set nozzle to 0.8, then check layer view if you cant wait to print.
ALWAYS USE LAYER VIEW to see how it comes out.
Then you can play with, and see the result of many settings without actially
having to print the item, higly recommended.
The good ol`boys in here ALWAYS use layer view to check that they did not forget a setting,
as an exmple in the expert settings from the "previous" print.
Please, can you post your print then later on?
If you print the fan upside down, you are in overhang area for a long time, and you can experiment with temp and speed etc while you are printint to find the best result.. maybe?
Some people print the two items in two different colours, looks good!
Unfortunately, they cannot do it at the same time... yet!
Hello Everyone
Who can share information about Tinker Firmware. Does it have advantages over Cura? Is it difficult it install? Can Cura firmware be re-installed?
Mel
Hi,
yesterday I received my 3DSolex aka 'The Olson Block', thanks again swordriff for the fast delivery!
I want to print the torque wrench first (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench), but I have few questions:
Print them the way they are oriented when downloaded (the internal part in your image should be the other way around).
You can generally use default settings for PLA / ABS. (But make sure that you adjust the diameter setting if your filament is not 2,85 mm)
The design was made to be as forgiving as possible, so I don't expect you to end up with problems printing it. Unless maybe if you use the blue Ultimaker PLA, which is notoriously difficult to print.
The torque will vary a bit between ABS, PLA and XT, but they are all within the limits.
I generally use the ABS version, which has the lowest torque of the three.
There is actually quite a lot of information in the description/comments by the way: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench
:smile:
Sigi!
We need to work on your print!
If you are sure there is no skipping from the feeder,
pls try prining with 0.5 height.
Olsson makes prints with 0.8,mm Nozzle that looks almost like mold injected.
Mr Olsson; Could you share a photo of the white ring, and the settings?
@ swordriff don't you mean 0.05mm height? instead of 0.5
Nix!
Suggest to try 0.4 or 0.5, Just try it with 0.80 Jets.
I get wonderful results with 040 nozzle and 0.25
ha need to try that
Hello Everyone
Who can share information about Tinker Firmware. Does it have advantages over Cura? Is it difficult it install? Can Cura firmware be re-installed?
Mel
The post 26.
The recent version is based on 15.02.1 (aka: the version that comes with the current stable Cura version).
It can be installed on the Ultimaker2 via Cura -> Machine -> Install custom firmware.
(Re-)Installing the default firmware is possible at any time.
Join us at the other thread, if you like.
Olsson makes prints with 0.8,mm Nozzle that looks almost like mold injected.
Mr Olsson; Could you share a photo of the white ring, and the settings?
Nix!
.....
:-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P
I'd like to see a part that looks like mold injected.
However I will also try to print with 0,4 or 0,5.
Hi,
thanks for all suggestions printing the torque wrenche (see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/page-24 #475)
I printed it now using ABS at 250°, look here:
and here:
I printed like I presented on the image in #475, means the 'wings' of the inner part touching the glass plate.
I had no problems doing so, as you can see on the images.
If somebody is interested in the settings I used here they are. I did two single printjobs one by one.
- Layer height: 0.15
- Shell thickness: 1.0
- Enable retraction: activated with standard settings
- Fill denisty: 100%
- Print speed: 50
- Support type: none
- Platform adhesion type: none
- nozzle size (UM2 stock nozzle): 0.4
- Initial layer thickness: 0.2
- Initial layer width: 100
- Travel speed: 150
- Bottom layer speed: 30
- Infill speed: 100
- Top/bottom speed: 30
- Outer shell speed: 40
- Inner shell speed: 80
- Enable cooling fan: disabled
Printbed temperature: 90°
The first try I printed on the glass plate directly, but after around 10 layers the part came loose.
I put some 50mm Kapton tape on the glass and now it sticks strongly - even after cooling down.
So for small parts I really recommend to try Kapton tape!
Before putting both parts together I print the inner part again now. As Anders Olsson recommended I print the inner part upside down now, like in the STL file.
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The I2Ks are delayed because it is difficult to source the right material.
I have decided to ship everything else, and send the I2K later, looks like 1-2 weeks.
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