Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[ultiarjan 1,223]

In case you missed this tread;

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10048-cura-15021-printing-infill-before-perimeters/

Seems to be beter to avoid cura 1502 when printing anything larger than 0.1 layer height, due to the change in printing order of shell and infill.

 

[3dnerd 6]

Hi,

now I printed the inner part again but now in the correct orientation as the STL file is.

First I made a mistake, I did not switch on the fan again, so here is what came out:

The detailed part look really horrible, the tips of the 'wings' turned to brown look like burned!

 

Then I enabled the fan (the outer part I printed with fan disabled) for the inner part again, here you can see the difference now:

The result is really great, amazing what UM2 can do!

The filament is Innofil3D ABS silver grey, it appears blue here since I used twho different light sources with different light temperature and my white balance is not correct here, so just ignore the color.

Then I inserted the inner part into the outer part, it fits perfectly - thanks Anders Olsson!

I tried to screw something and heard the click noise - wunderbar :wink:

BTW as you can see here even you have a faulty print, it never is useless. Learning by doing shows what went wrong and you learn from it making it better the next time!

 

[pm_dude 27]

First tests of the new fanduck with protection on the heater against the airflow.

 

Still a work in progress:

- 40mm Fans

- Right duck is not at the good distance for now

- Air duck is centered on the nozzle

- Air flow shield is made with aluminum sheet (completely overrated )

A small example of the difference of with and without the shield. Without: the nozzle starts at 210C and after a few layers the nozzle could never exceed 200C because of the amount of air flow. With: the nozzle drop at 208C and goes back at 210C in a few seconds.

Edit: shield will pretty much stay this way

 

[Labern 774]

Have you tried Kapton film instead of aluminum? Its light and easy for everyone to install.

[izzy 33]

Hi Pm-dude, like the duct,

I'm begining to play with a duct design too, I want to be able to alter the exit size for finding the best cooling of the part, I like MNIS' duct that also directs some cooling to the PTFE coupler and can swing aside, I am looking at incorporating them into mine, But I like your little shield too, I might try making a simular prototype cutting up an aluminium drinks can.

Need some advice on breakaway supports in the design, what gap to keep between the support and the part to allow for easy removal?

[swordriff 119]

Hey guys!

Interesting to read about the fan ducts!

From time to time I read that you want to cool the PTFE

coupler also.

I say this is not necessary / very helpful. The PTFE coupler does not get

very hot on the outside, and cooling it from the outside will not influence its

lower inside which is where it gets hot. It is a fantastic temperature insulator.

If it was not for the steel spiral spring, a child could easily hold the PTFE coupler in its

hands while you are printing at 260!

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

I say this is not necessary / very helpful. The PTFE coupler does not get

very hot on the outside, and cooling it from the outside will not influence its

lower inside which is where it gets hot. It is a fantastic temperature insulator.

If it was not for the steel spiral spring, a child could easily hold the PTFE coupler in its

hands while you are printing at 260!

 

Hmmm... I actually never touched or measured the PTFE coupler during print but why would the Ultimaker people mount a fan cooling for the coupler on the UM2? They didn't had that on the Original. So they must have seen a significant difference in the thermal profile when developing the UM2. Or they are just stupid which I don't think so.

One should not forget that a good thermal insulator shows a large temperature gradient. A strong cooling on the outside will change the whole gradient over time which will lead to less degrading also at the higher temperature ranges (means you increase the heat flow and therefore the resulting temperature on the inside).

 

[Labern 774]

The fan is to cool the alloy heat sink, not to blow on the Teflon coupler. Passing air will blow on it, but the main idea is to cool the alloy that the Stainless nut and Teflon coupler sits in.

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Correct. And what is the heat sink for? Which part do you actually want to cool? I guess it's the part with the highest risk of degrading and melting. And this is hardly the stainless steel part.

 

[Labern 774]

I agree the you want to cool the Telfon coupler. but it needs to be cooled at the base where its touching the heaterblock. The stainless nut goes down to this point. the alloy plate which the nut sits in is at this point to draw heat away from this area.

 

[gr5 2,167]

The problem isn't that steel will melt. The problem is that you don't want the PLA to melt until it gets inside the heater block. If it melts too high up the path (say in the bowden) then you are more likely to get a clog. Retractions makes this worse as repeated retractions transfers the heat upwards. Of course if you retract only enough to release pressure in the head there isn't actually any retraction happening down at the print head.

 

[gr5 2,167]

When the UM2 first came out over a year ago there were quite a few UM2's shipped with bad wiring in the head that pulled apart during shipping such that the 3rd fan didn't work at all and many people didn't notice this. They had lots of "upper clogs" that went away when the fan wiring was plugged back in.

 

[neotko 1,417]

The problem isn't that steel will melt. The problem is that you don't want the PLA to melt until it gets inside the heater block. If it melts too high up the path (say in the bowden) then you are more likely to get a clog. Retractions makes this worse as repeated retractions transfers the heat upwards. Of course if you retract only enough to release pressure in the head there isn't actually any retraction happening down at the print head.

 

One question out of topic (sorry). Does that mean, that if I set a umm.. 20x20x10 5v fan, on the teflon insulator area of my UMO+ (sorry again for the out of topic), that could help the clogs I get with high flow materials like wood/coconut? I did some tests with wood 4 days ago and coconut (formfutura) and bamboo (colorfabb) both clogged (I know I should keep them at 5mm3 minimum (and I tried and worked for 2-3h until clogged) but when it jammed, the filament that was just a bit inside the throat was clearly melted. Maybe active cooling would stop the heat effectively?

 

[gr5 2,167]

Usually with wood filaments they clog because a piece of wood is too big for the nozzle. So a larger nozzle would help (like .8mm nozzle). But if the clog is higher up in the head, then probably reducing your retraction to maybe 3mm would help. And make sure that 3rd fan is functioning.

 

[swordriff 119]

Absolutely!

I turn off retraction completely! Let it flow and experiment with increased flow, up to 140%,

with wood

 

[pm_dude 27]

A small note on the fan mount and aluminum cover.

The cover vibrate and is pretty noisy. Its also becoming pretty hot and bend the fan mount next to it. I'll try to find Kapton film and try with that.

The temp is extremely stable tough.

 

[izzy 33]

I've got this heat shield fabric below from eBay about £5

Search for heat shield reflective Mtex

Not used it yet, but have just printed a LH fan duct, need to get the adjustable opening going, and don't want to put back pressure on the fan reducing its effect, but it swings out of the way nicely for easy access to the heating block.

Does anybody have the dimension of the difference between the std nozzel and the E3D nozzel?

From EBay

Heat Shield (High Performance Metal Textile)

Dimensions: 290mm x 200mm

Application temperature: 590C (approx. 1100F)

Glass fibre fabric coated both sides with aluminium metal.

Produced by application of molten technology.

Excellent adhesion of the coating on the base fabric, even after hundreds of degrees temperature increase.

No adhesives used in its manufacture so cannot delaminate. Made by a thermal coating process coating directly with metal.

Temperature permanent coating - no flammable binders. No hazardous substances, smoke or smell will develop even at maximum temperature.

Can be easily cut to size and shaped.

** Custom dimensions are available upon request. Message us for details **

[DidierKlein 729]

For the fan shroud https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud (in XT-CF-20) it's a good one the base doesn't touch the heater block and you have extra space to use the wrench to change the nozzle.

You have to reduce the fan to 50 - 75% (75% seems to be ok for me for PLA).

I tried the 0.8mm nozzle it's so much fun

Printing at 0.3mm layers is giving fast prints and they still look nice, i'm definitely happy about this mod

UM robot is scaled up 3 times and was printed in less than 3 hours (with 1.6 walls and 10% infill)

 

[reibuehl 42]

I see a lot of people here experimenting with different fan shrouds. Can anybody explain me why? What is wrong with the original one? I am using the Olsson block now for quite a while without any problems together with the original fan shroud.

 

[swordriff 119]

reibuehl! I understand you completely! I have my Um2 since 2013,and had to tighten almost every screw in the chassis and electronics etc... but I never did anything to the extruder and never thought there is something wrong with the fan shroud!

Several have PMd me asking me to start a crowdfunded fan shroud.. but I think it will never satisfy everyone, and always be criticized (probably with good reason!).

What I do see is that the extruder should be modified (soft filament, etc) , so I probably go with iRoberti / www.3dverkstan.se design.. allthough some of the others seem fantastic too!, its just that I wish to support local suppliers.. haha..

[Labern 774]

I have used a 3d printed fan shroud. It did really improve some prints like the right side of ulti-bot.

it deformed over time and after the firmware change i got temp errors. Its in the bin now.

I think there is room for improvement for using single extruder.

The problem is with the current designs is that there is no proper testing put in place to prove peoples theory's.

 

[izzy 33]

I found that the cooling was uneven, the metal one is designed for 2 print heads so the right hand fan has not applying an airflow to the correct area, printing mims really helped I now want to improve the air flow to the applied area without putting back pressure on the fan and reducing its effectiveness, for my experimenting duct I want to be able to adjust the size of the opening to concentrate the flow and to direct it or angle it at the work piece and not at the nozzel. all good fun.

[bob-hepple 59]

I've read with interest about the Anderson Olsson Block. I am keen to try a small nozzle size for small intricate parts. I was thinking of ordering nozzles from e3d online and getting the block from 3d solex.

How easy is it to fit? Do I need any other items to carry this out before I jump ie. Um2 parts

[swordriff 119]

Hi Bob!

Its easy to fit, but some users cannot remove the temp sensor without destroying it, regrettably.

Nothing else you need...

 

[bob-hepple 59]

Swordriff

Thanks for the reply I take it you are 3DSolex?? I found the extra items on the 3DS sight like the temp sensor ect and Nozles I will be ordering the complete setup with spares soon. Just looking for a Fan Shroud.

I don't know this for sure but When I dismantle the temp sensors I wondered if there is anything wrong with it, my print settings for PLA is very low 180 thats colour fabs black/white/

Bob