Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[janafunk 0]

Hi all,

I have upgraded my UM2 to using the Olsson block.

Initially I was quite apprehensive with regards to the issues others have had with removing the temp. sensor but my UM2 (bought in UK 2013) but F=fortunately my install was a breeze. The heater and the temp. sensor came out of the old heater block with out any issues. :-)

Ive re-calibrated the bed and everything and made a test print using the following settings which I was using with my stock UM2 block; but this is where I am now having issues with infill when printing.

Any suggestions on how to fix this would be most welcome.

Material: PLA (Faberdashery black)

Layer height: 0.1

Nozzle size: Jet 0.4mm

Temperature: 210C

Speed: 50mm/s

Fan Speed: 100% (after initial layers)

[DidierKlein 729]

Have you checked that the temperature doesn't drop too much when the fans are at full power?

Or maybe the infill speed is too high

[stu_le_brew 42]

Like you I have recently installed an Olson block - very pleased with it too.

I would suggest you first try increasing the temperature to say 218-220 and see what difference that makes, also check the infill speed (in advanced settings)

[gr5 2,167]

When installing the block you have to be careful that it doesn't touch the fan shroud. Look at the gap between the 2 from the rear of the machine - try inserting a toothpick or piece of paper. If there is no gap then raise the block a bit by rotating that round steel nut (while heated to 180C). You should be able to raise the block without taking anything apart although releasing some tension by loosening the 4 thumb screws several full turns might make it easier.

I put a very thin piece of kapton tape on two edges of my block so that there would be a thin insulating layer of air between the two.

This may have nothing to do with your issue but it would certainly help explain it. What you are seeing in that infill is underextrusion. Default cura profile now has the infill running much faster than the shell so sometimes the infill is just a little too fast (or maybe your nozzle is just a little too cold).

[personal-drones 44]

Hi all,

I have upgraded my UM2 to using the Olsson block.

Initially I was quite apprehensive with regards to the issues others have had with removing the temp. sensor but my UM2 (bought in UK 2013) but F=fortunately my install was a breeze. The heater and the temp. sensor came out of the old heater block with out any issues. :-)

Ive re-calibrated the bed and everything and made a test print using the following settings which I was using with my stock UM2 block; but this is where I am now having issues with infill when printing.

Any suggestions on how to fix this would be most welcome.

Material: PLA (Faberdashery black)

Layer height: 0.1

Nozzle size: Jet 0.4mm

Temperature: 210C

Speed: 50mm/s

Fan Speed: 100% (after initial layers)

 

Hi I had the same exact problem and it was due to what Didier and GR5 are pointing to.

My recommendation is to print this:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud

in XT or ABS and replace the aluminum fan shroud. I did this a few months ago now, when installing the block, and did not have problems ever since.

[swordriff 119]

Nozzle Product Replacement!

There is an IMPORTANT application order change:

Shipped end of May, and all of June.: Latest batch JET 025 nozzles from 3dSolex are not 0.25 at all.

Due to a manufacturing mistake, it seems they are 0.35.

I cannot say if it is like this with all of them, but a client has reported this issue.

Fix: Use nozzle as an 0.35 (change settings in cura).

All customers who have bought an 025 or as part of a Jet Set kit, will receive replacement nozzles in beginning of July.

I deeply regret the trouble this may have caused during printing.

If you do not get email from me this week-end, or you bought from a reseller, please contact me about the issue.

Replacement nozzle(s) will ship from me directly to leave the reseller "out of the loop".

[gr5 2,167]

So.... I should mark all my current .25 nozzles as .35 now? And charge extra for the limited edition .35mm nozzles?

[swordriff 119]

@Gr5 Veeery funny! No- its not. It just allmost wiped a big deal for me!

I will sell them for 20e each haha! No please i need them back.

[gr5 2,167]

FYI - Swordriff has learned more. The nozzles I have sold and most of the ones he has sold are fine. The "good" 0.25mm nozzles have one dot on them. Not sure of the configuration for the "bad" nozzles and not sure how they look different as I haven't seen one yet.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Quite nasty story but excellent way of dealing with it by @swordriff and @gr5!

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Hello Forum: got the Olsson Blovk today.. work perfect its a really joke feeling to be able to change nozzles...

Issue : beyond 230 degrees, temp error.... the block is far away from the shroud. is there solution for this issue? i've seen many shards i can print, BUT, are they long lasting?

thanks in advance for the advices...

[esteban-pacheco 33]

i think the problem is that the olsson block is a little bit Wider than the original one, so it is touching the fan shroud on the left side (looking the U2 from the front). What happen if i change the nozzle to the right side? i think it will love the problem... but what kind of issues will appear? it is possible? do i ned to configure the 0,0,0 point of the machine?

thanks...

[esteban-pacheco 33]

I mean, switch the hot end from left to right...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

You may have a point there, just checked and the olsson block is not symetrical, so it may be an improvement. Anyhow it's an easy thing to try. I already have it on the right side on my right head. I don't think you have to change anything software wise (xy bed dimms of machine in Cura), but you'll just have to check, I can't check for you due to my unconventional setup

http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer?page=27

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Oh, and checking is easy, just print something with Cura, measure in Cura how fare away you are from the right side max of the bed, then measure how much space you really have on the bed after printing.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

yes i've noticed it too, its not symmetrical the left side protrudes more to the left than to the right, so thats why (i think) it affects the temp readings, it is too close to the shroud to the left side...

sorry Ultiarjan, i don't get what youre saying about the distances... the i have to measure the space respect to what?

bless

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I was thinking, just measure the space till the right in cura (6.5cm in this example). Then print and measure on your glass the actual space you have left on the right side, if it's 6.5 cm or more you don't need to correct anything to be able to use the full bed size ..

[esteban-pacheco 33]

theres not standard values i can insert in the Machine settings in Cura?

[Anders Olsson 136]

You may have a point there, just checked and the olsson block is not symetrical, so it may be an improvement. Anyhow it's an easy thing to try. I already have it on the right side on my right head. I  don't think you have to change anything software wise (xy bed dimms of machine in Cura), but you'll just have to check, I can't check for you due to my unconventional setup

 

In fact, the first prototypes were actually mirrored by accident.

If I had known when designing the commercial version they would cancel the dual extrusion upgrade, I would have kept it mirrored.

But at that point I assumed many people would mount two blocks, so I redesigned it so that the sensor and heater are placed the same way as on the original block, which means it is protruding slightly more to the left.

The reason for that, by the way, is that the heater has larger diameter than the temperature sensor.

[gr5 2,167]

You shouldn't have to move the block to the right side. You have several options...

1) If you do move the block to the right side you only have to worry about extra large prints. You might print off the right edge of the glass or you might hit the 4 clips because the position of the 4 clips is now "differenent". But as long as you print smaller things < 200mm you should be fine.

2) Use some kapton tape between the fan shroud and the block. Or just loosen the 4 screws and push the shroud over a tiny bit and retighten.

3) Use the same firmware I use. It is older but it works fine and doesn't get the heater error. I use 14.09. Check what firmware you have - the worst versions are 14.12 which often gets error. To install older firmware, get cura 14.09 and install that then connect to usb and "update" the firmware. You can see your firmware version using the control panel on UM2. Also anders has some versions of the firmware that will go to 290C I think.

4) You could get a higher wattage heater. UM2 is sold by default with 25W heater but sometimes they are out of spec and actually only 22W. 3dsolex sells 35W heaters.

5) It could be you only get the "heater error" when the fan comes on suddenly. You could try to make it come on more slowly.

[gr5 2,167]

Are you sure it isn't the *bottom* of the olsson block touching the fan shroud? Look at it from behind and try to insert a tooth pick or piece of paper or something.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Are you sure it isn't the *bottom* of the olsson block touching the fan shroud?  Look at it from behind and try to insert a tooth pick or piece of paper or something.

 

I can insert a 1.1 mm Gauge between the Shroud and the Heather Block... is not hat enough?

[esteban-pacheco 33]

[media=2965][/media]

I can change those values on the CURA SETTINGS....

will it work?

Edited June 21, 2015 by Guest

[swordriff 119]

If the Block does not touch the fan shroud, it is no issue anymore., even if the distance is only 0.2 mm.

There is the possibility that your heater is weak. My own UM2 had a heater of only 18W.

I think a slower fan-on will help greatly. : Fan min 10- max 100.

If your heater is weak, then fan max 50, maybe?

[esteban-pacheco 33]

using a bigger wattage Heater: does it really works? or is just hypothetical? the change to an stronger heater, what kind of consequences does it carry? temp fluctuations for example?