Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[gr5 2,170]

As the purple text above says, make sure your block is not touching the fan shroud. The round nut (yellow in upper picture, dark gray in lower picture) is designed to be able to adjust and make the 2 nozzles the exact same height with dual-printing but dual-printing never worked well enough.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

As the purple text above says, make sure your block is not touching the fan shroud.  The round nut (yellow in upper picture, dark gray in lower picture) is designed to be able to adjust and make the 2 nozzles the exact same height with dual-printing but dual-printing never worked well enough.

 

so the  I2K Chip goes between the yellow PTFE and the Blue Olsson Block?, and by using a  I2K Chip the distance between the round nut (dark Gray) and the Olsson Block (Blue) will be around _____?

and Using a  I2K Chip the distance between the PTFE (yellow) and the round nut (Dark Gray) will be around ____?

Edited July 19, 2015 by Guest

[izzy 33]

They will be approximately what I put in my post.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

They will be approximately what I put in my post.

 

Thanks!

[gr5 2,170]

Yes regarding i2k. I try to make the round nut (gray) as loose as possible but still keep the block from touching the fan shroud. Maybe 0.5 to 1mm gap between fan shroud and brass block. To do this means tightening the round nut almost all the way.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Yes regarding i2k.  I try to make the round nut (gray) as loose as possible but still keep the block from touching the fan shroud.  Maybe 0.5 to 1mm gap between fan shroud and brass block.  To do this means tightening the round nut almost all the way.

 

so you say wit this configuration the round nut will be touching the block? what are the implications of that?

[gr5 2,170]

It's fine - just don't put much force on it. This is not very strong. I'm saying to *almost* touch the block. Have it as far as possible but don't let the block touch the fan shroud. This means having the round nut turned almost as far as it can go.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Just a question:

Is the Olsson Block nozzles compatible with the E3DV6 Nozzles?

Edited July 21, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Just a question:

Is the Olsson Block nozzles compatible with the E3DV6 Nozzles?

 

Indeed, Anders Olsson created the block for that exactly. You could even use Ultimaker Original nozzles.

Edited July 21, 2015 by Guest

[esteban-pacheco 33]

 

Just a question:

Is the Olsson Block nozzles compatible with the E3DV6 Nozzles?

 

Indeed, Anders Olsson created the block for that exactly. You could even use Ultimaker Original nozzles.

 

COOL!

[Jabr 0]

Hi all!

I got the new heater block a few weeks ago and I've been loving it, but recently I've been having some trouble getting my .25mm nozzle to print after switching back from the largest size. It seems like the nozzle is clogged, rather than just incorrectly installed (I was able to track the blockage down into the heater block, so I'm fairly confident all of the parts above it are just fine).

On the other hand, I had a similar problem last time I switched from the largest nozzle to smallest one, but was able to clear the nozzle without too much issue. Is there any known history of issues with the Olssen Block when switching back to the .25mm nozzle from the .8mm one? If not, does anyone have any tips on cleaning a .25mm nozzle without one of those special nozzle-cleaning drills?

Thanks!

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Heat it up to about 200°C and insert filament as far as possible (until it is stuck).

Take a very thin wire (e.g. from a metal brush) and push it upwardds through the nozzle opening. Be careful as you might get a quick jet of fluid plastics.

Let it cool down and perform a cold pull.

[gr5 2,170]

Cold pull for the .25mm nozzles will be around 100C to 120C. I would let it cool to 100C and let it sit for at least 20 seconds. Try the pull just by pulling it (the motor should be off so you can just pull downwards at the feeder). If 5kg or 10 pounds of force won't pull it out, raise the temp by 5C at a time and let it sit there for 10 seconds each time before pulling again. If successful this cold pull will get all the gunk out - you should end up with the filament in the shape of the inside of the nozzle. When the pull is successful let the pla sit at the top of the bowden for 10 seconds to cool before pulling it through the feeder. If it is still soft it will come apart in the feeder and is a pain to get out.

[gr5 2,170]

.25mm nozzles get clogged very easily.  The hole is just that small.  Also you need to print cooler (probably <= 210C) so that the filament doesn't bake in the nozzle for too long.  But then that means you have to print even slower.  Ah!!

Edited July 21, 2015 by Guest

[swordriff 119]

My view is the same. 025 nozzle prints slower and the filament sits in it a long time. Consequently lower temp needed. But not Im not so sure about if requires much slow down.

If you print PLA too hot it will clogg the 025 more easily, exactly like @gr5 says.. the plastic just remains in the nozzle too long at too high temperature.

Also: Dont switch between PLA/ABS in the same nozzle unless doing a number of Cold Pulls until clean... or else...!!

[Lofrank 1]

@swordriff

Sorry but I have a question here.

From this tutorial, the author changes the fan shroud to have a better air flow.

http://www.ideato3d.be/actualites/install-the-olsson-block-on-your-ultimaker-2/

Is it (change the fan shroud) must if I want to use Olsson block kit and I2K insulator?

Thanks.

[DidierKlein 729]

@Lofrank i'm the author of the tutorial

To answer your question: no it's not mandatory to change the fan shroud, you can still use the standard fan shroud.

With the I2K you have to tighten the steel insulator more to have the maximum pressure between the I2K and the Teflon (to prevent leaks). This will put the Olsson block higher so the fan shroud doesn't touch the block (you must have a gap between them to avoid heating errors).

I just changed it because i like the design of the fan shroud better, but you can easily do without it. As a matter a fact, i'm wandering if i will not go back to the original on the machine i use to print XT a lot.

By the way i'm now also selling the part from 3dSolex on my Webshop (among other things), so if you are close to Belgium (or not) you can order from here also.

[Lofrank 1]

Thanks for your nice tutorial @DidierKlein

I'm still considering whether to buy the block.

I'm from China, no re-seller is close to me...

One question, how much time it will take you to ship the items after I paid?

Thanks.

[DidierKlein 729]

Well everything that is mentionned as in stock on my webshop is in stock so i can ship directly after the payement is received. Now for it to come to china i really have no clue on how long it can take (i don't ship with tracking at the moment but i can look into that if you want).

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Would make your life easier ico a dispute with a customer to have t&t and POD. All mayor parcel carriers have it. If the customer chooses the cheaper postal/envelop shipping it's at his risk.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Is it (change the fan shroud) must if I want to use Olsson block kit and I2K insulator?

 

No, it's an option but not needed, the metal one of UM2 will work fine.

People change it because the UM2 version is not symetrical, as it was designed for dual extruders, which we now know will not happen on the UM2, so a symmetrical version in metal available from UM2 would still be very nice (@SandervG)

[Nicolinux 288]

This fan mount is the best so far for the Olsson Block:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block

I left the fan speed at 100% and didn't experience the dreaded temp error again. You should take care to set the "fan full on at height" (advanced settings in Cura) to something like 2mm or higher.

[Lofrank 1]

Thanks @ultiarjan

So this will not be the block issue for me to buy the Olsson block.

[Lofrank 1]

Thanks @Nicolinux

That model is useful.

[jens 9]

 

Is it (change the fan shroud) must if I want to use Olsson block kit and I2K insulator?

 

No, it's an option but not needed, the metal one of UM2 will work fine.

People change it because the UM2 version is not symetrical, as it was designed for dual extruders, which we now know will not happen on the UM2, so a symmetrical version in metal available from UM2 would still be very nice  (@SandervG)

 

Some people change it because the metal one of the UM2 just does not work fine with the Olsson block. I don't know if there are slight variations in the metal fan shrouds coming mounted on UM2s, but at least with mine the block just wouldn't fit without touching the metal.