Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[Lofrank 1]

@swordriff

>>>>If you do not heat the nozzle, you risk crashing the steel coupler with the little holes

Why heat the nozzle will make this (turn the steelcoupler) easier?

>>>>so that the block comes up as high as possible.

Is there any disadvantage to do this? I was told that it's not good to put too much pressure on the spring...

Thanks.

[swordriff 119]

Hi Frank!

If you have had a leack (probably not yet, since you are relatively "fresh") then the steel coupler is "glued" sometimes to the brass and breaks if you force it without heating first.

You do not have to turn the steel copler more if you are sure the brass block does not hit the fan shroud (look behind). 1/2 mm is enough clearance.

The turning of the steel coupler was introduced I think to facilitate calibration of a dual setup, which will not come in its current design.

[Lofrank 1]

@swordriff

Got it.

And I'm sure the brass block does not hit the fan shroud.

Thanks!

[Lofrank 1]

Hi @swordriff & Every

I found that I always get under extrusion after using Olsson block.

1. It's very obvious under extrusion after a retraction.

2. Sometimes the feeder jumps, then under extrusion.

I have done Atomic Method to clean the nozzle, the nozzle is clean. I also feel that I need push more pressure when do Atomic Method than before.

I'm using IRovertI's feeder, it works good before, and haven't adjust it.

Could you give some comments?

Thanks.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

What nozzle are you using?  Olsson + Jet brass will have less friction than um2 nozzle. I think the stainless steel nozzle can give more friction with pla...

Edited August 18, 2015 by Guest

[Lofrank 1]

What nozzle are you using?  Olsson + Jet brass will have less friction than um2 nozzle. I think the stainless steel nozzle can give more friction with pla...

 

I use one of the brass nozzles, which has a small hole on the side.

I assume this is the 0.4 mm one?

What's more, when do Atomic Method,

the filament is very thin and long after pull out at 85℃ temperature.

[Labern 774]

I have to pull out at 70deg on mine. just drop the temp till it doesn't stretch and retains the shape of the nozzle

[ultiarjan 1,223]

not knowing which size nozzle you use may explain some things

I guess 1 hole is a 0.35 mm nozzle, the 0.4 should have 4 I think, look at the picture here;

http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/35mm-nozzle-limited-edition.html

Also you can pull a little colder with the jet nozzles.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Reading the text on gr5's website got me confused.... I think your 0.4 nozzle should look like this:

http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/4mm-jet-rsb-nozzle.html

[DidierKlein 729]

Jet nozzle in 0.40mm has one mark

Check out here on my webshop: http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/3dsolex-nozzles/ultimaker-2-nozzle-rsb-0-40mm/

I took the pictures myself!

[ultiarjan 1,223]

That is confusing, I have them with 4 marks.... looking at them now ... so mine (and the picture on GR5's site) are old versions ?

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Thanks, if it need to be adjusted for a 35W heater, I won't use a 35W heater..

 

Well, a 35W heater produces 1.4 times as much heat as a 25W heater. Putting this heat into a limited amount of material lets temperature increase 1.4times faster (as long as nothing melts, otherwise part of the energy goes into latent heat).

edit: Changes would have to be made on this line...

Edited August 18, 2015 by Guest

[Anders Olsson 136]

Regarding the RSB nozzles there are two batches I think.

The first one has two marks on each flat surface, four marks in total for 0.4 mm, six for 0.6 mm and so on.

The second batch has another system with only one mark on each flat surface.

I don't know why it was changed as I am not really involved in this, hopefully swordriff will give you more details on this soon.

I am sorry for not being so active here by the way. I just can not stand this new forum even though I have been trying hard to get used to it. Feels like I get a headache as soon as I try to use it.

Give me the old forum back (or some other well established platform) and I will be much more active!

Not posting does not mean nothing is happening by the way, it just means you / Ultimaker no longer have a preview on what is being done..

[gr5 2,172]

The nozzle markings are confusing as things have changed over the last 8 months. Some nozzles have small cones like the left nozzle in the photo here and some have the large cones. Once you've established that then count the dots...

http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/35mm-nozzle-limited-edition.html

1 dot=.25mm (small cone) or .4mm (big cone) (or limited edition .35mm)

4 dots=.4mm

6 dots=.6mm

no dots=.4 or .8 2+1 dots=.8

1+2+1 dots=1mm

The "dot" system will get less confusing as time goes on as Carl has great ideas to make this extremely obvious! No charts will be needed. Some day soon I hope.

[gr5 2,172]

So it's possible that lofrank got the "bad batch" of nozzles marked as 0.4mm but actually drilled out wrong and in the range of .34 to .38mm. But unlikely. I think Carl and I sent out new nozzles to all the people who got one from the "bad batch".

If you have a true .4mm nozzle you can put it side by side with the one from 3dsolex and photograph them with a cell phone camera - those camers can get close enough to actually test the nozzle diameter visually!

[gr5 2,172]

 

@lofrank what temperature, speed, and layer height are you printing at?

[Lofrank 1]

@lofrank what temperature, speed, and layer height are you printing at?

 

Hi gr5

I'm using default PLA profile (210℃),

Normal profile of Cura 15.04.2 (0.1mm height)

I will paste more details when I back to home.

I'm using Ultimaker's grey PLA.

Thanks.

[Lofrank 1]

There are two nozzles put together with the Olsson block, which has only one dot totally, looks like this:

http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/3dsolex-nozzles/ultimaker-2-nozzle-rsb-0-40mm/

So I asume it's 0.4mm.

I'm trying to contact carl for detals about the size, thanks all!

[gr5 2,172]

That's the big cone with one dot - so yes that should be 0.4mm. I just don't know if you got one from the "bad batch". I doubt it but it's possible. Anyway I'm concerned that you may be simply printing too fast or too cold and I'm concerned that you don't know layer height off the top of your head - do you change this parameter often? I suppose if I changed it on every print I would lose track also. Here are my recommended max printing speeds - going over this can lead to filament grinding and/or underextrusion:

==============

Hhere are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

20mm/sec at 200C

30mm/sec at 210C

40mm/sec at 225C

50mm/sec at 240C

The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

[Lofrank 1]

Thanks @gr5

>>>> I'm concerned that you may be simply printing too fast or too cold and I'm concerned that you don't know layer height off the top of your head

I used to print with the exactly same configuration (when using the original nozzle block), which leads a good result.

Anyhow I will try to print slower.

Thanks.

[Nicolinux 288]

Hey George,

these recommendations are quite hot so to speak

240° at 50mm/s? Wouldn't print quality suffer greatly if you print that hot? I imagine stringing and oozing would be a big problem.

[ply2 1]

What i learned today:

Dont pull the temp sensor out while it's hot! :-( After a lot of WD40, heating, cooling, twisting, pulling and cursing i had the clever idea that it might help to head up the block to ~220°C. A soft pull was enough to get the sensor out.

It looks like the PT100 is intact, maybe i can give him a second life as ambient temp sensor in another printer...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Yeah... if you need to go that hot you must be having other issues. ...

Nr.1. Recommendation for UM2 is probably still to replace the feeder....

[gr5 2,172]

What i learned today:

Dont pull the temp sensor out while it's hot!

 

What? Don't do what you did? but it worked for you? I don't understand.

[ply2 1]

No it didn't work for me. It turned the temp sensor into Schroedingers PT100. (It's OK unless you look at it). The hull of the sensor was ripped off and still sticks inside the heater block. The fun part is that the tiny sensor chip with it's itsy bitsy cables survived this like nothing happened this is why i posted the pics. This is how it should look:

https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/254-disassembly