Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[Labern 774]

I'm also interested in the hard nozzles and what sizes will they be released in?

[swordriff 119]

Looks like 0.40 and or 0.50 at the moment... puh.. so much work and its so difficult!

[Labern 774]

You can do iiit

[neotko 1,417]

I know that 0.5mm versions are being made and also 0.4mm. But I think it's better to drop a pm to @swordriff / @anders-olsson

[neotko 1,417]

Looks like 0.40 and or 0.50 at the moment... puh.. so much work and its so difficult!

 

But they are amazing! And so 'pretty'

[neotko 1,417]

@anders-olsson nozzle beta for more test arrived today (my birthday also so perfect) so I took the chance to do a test with my e3d nozzle.

I prep a ultirobot on s3d with 30mm/s (outlines and infill) 0.07 layer and fans going from 60% to 95% at layers 16-28-40 (more or less I can publish the gcode if anyone want but it's set for 1.75mm filament). Used Faberdashery peppermint cream at 195C and bed 70C no glue. Same gcode/temp/2h print difference and airconditioning on the room to make the test properly.

Here's the img of the e3d (left) vs olsson (right). The quality on the lines it's clearly superior, and the lines layers look better. Overhangs are better also on the olsson nozzle.  

But what I could properly test was my impression that I got less 'ringing' effect with olsson nozzle and I could finally saw it on a test with proper conditions.

Check this img. Left Olsson, Right e3d. Check the foot of the robot and the ringing lines on one and the other. Clearly the ringing effect it's less on this nozzle than on the classic e3d.

And this is why I'm so excited to see this nozzles on the marked. They just print better. Thank you @anders-olsson for letting me beta test this.

My machine umo+ with mods: gt2 belt/pulleys, misumi shafts, magnetic head changer, dual fans 40x40x20.

Edited September 15, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

So just to be clear this is the new jet nozzle in 1.75 vs the 1.75 e3d same material, the difference is in the inner nozzle shape?

Looks very nice indeed!

And still congrats with your birthday..

[neotko 1,417]

So just to be clear this is the new jet nozzle in 1.75 vs the 1.75 e3d same material, the difference is in the inner nozzle shape?

Looks very nice indeed!

And still congrats with your birthday..

 

This is the 'hard nozzle' I don't think it has a name yet. About the material can't talk but it's different... Except it can print at the same temps and so far the test show that it can withstand carbon like if it was pla. Also a side effect, it prints so nicely.

Heh thanks @ultiarjan I got a bb8 star wars minirobot for my birthday XD and the opportunity to keep testing this nozzle.

Edited September 15, 2015 by Guest

[Liam 1]

Could one use something like this to more cleanly print with 1.75 mm. filament?

[gr5 2,167]

I'm not sure that 1.75mm filament is any better. Anders Olsson thinks it is but I think more people have to do more tests. Liam what country are you in? Are you interested in buying a conversion kit? I'm putting one on my store soon - they will be under 100 euros.

[neotko 1,417]

Could one use something like this to more cleanly print with 1.75 mm. filament?

 

What I saw on my many printed robots with this nozzle it's that the print quality improves. But I can't know if it's for the 1.75mm because I have always use this diameter since I got my umo+. I'm one of the lucky ones to test this nozzles and so far it's a beast.

I like 1.75 because it drips way less, it needs less temp to print. Specially for dual head. But better quality because 1.75? No idea.

[neotko 1,417]

Well isn't 'less temp' but more precisely less temp to keep the printing speed.

[Liam 1]

I'm not sure that 1.75mm filament is any better.  Anders Olsson thinks it is but I think more people have to do more tests.  Liam what country are you in?  Are you interested in buying  a conversion kit?  I'm putting one on my store soon - they will be under 100 euros.

 

I am in the U.S. That would be great! How well does it work?

Also, for the Bowden tube, would it be possible to just slide a different tube inside the existing one? Does such a tube even exist?

Edited September 18, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,167]

I am in the U.S. That would be great! How well does it work?

Also, for the Bowden tube, would it be possible to just slide a different tube inside the existing one? Does such a tube even exist?

 

Yes, my kit has the dual bowden thing for about $9.  You have to be careful that the inner bowden doesn't slide out through the feeder on retraction so I have a 3d printed part that takes care of this - photos on my store.

I only have one 1.75mm bowden at this time.  No one has ever ordered a 1.75mm kit despite heavy interest (none as of september 18 2015). Again I only have one kit with bowden - the other kits are without bowden.

I have the conversion kit up on my store now (for usa,mexico,canada customers only - other's need to go to 3dsolex.com): http://gr5.org/store/

It's meant for people who have hundreds of dollars of old 1.75mm filament.  I doubt it prints any better but we shall see.  I only know of two people who think the 1.75mm *might* be better.  I'm waiting for better tests and more tests.  I have not tried 1.75mm (I don't have any filament).

Edited September 18, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

So the bowden conversion has an inner 2-3mm ptfe? I suppose it works. On my umo+ many ptfe tests when the inner ptfe wasn't glue it left a tinny gap where the filament semihot always drip up inside the gap. Mainly because the lower dia bowden tents to change size and compress (juat get a lighter near the tip for a second and see how it compress) when near heat overtime (2-3kilos pla). On my tests glueing it with special ptfe glue did work perfect but also did have a bit problems after the 6th roll it burned a bit and compressed making the feeder underextrude (but was easy to fix by cutting 3-5mm). On the long run the best option on my machine it's to use 6-2mm budas ptfe. Steady, reliable and zero problems and reprap shops have some of really good centered hole production. Also on um2 many chinese stores sell ptfe coupler with 4mm dia for 2-4mm ptfe that they sell very very cheap (enough to use it - I have tested it on a weird test) and even when it clearly goes brown and changes size quite fast, it's so cheap that it's like changing bullets. Someday I should transcript my diary of failures and sucess of going to 1.75 with an umo+. Also for inner ptfe I would use pfa transparent 3-2mm to keep the 'cool' even tho it has a bit less heat resistence but the flexibility of ptfe vs pfa it's a plus (pfa better on that). Just my 5cents.

[Nicolinux 288]

Hey neotko, do you have a link (or links) for those ptfe pieces/coupler? thx

[neotko 1,417]

This it's the um2 ptfe coupler I bough for a test

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-Ultimaker-2-0-Hot-End-Isolator-Coupler-PTFE-Teflon-inner-sleeve-for-3mm-filament-3D/32325011966.html

They are expensive. I recomend you the new shop I tried (I bough them hot barrels and ptfe couplers for umo/umo+) and they did delivery quite ok.

For 1.75 (for ptfe of 4mm-2mm)

http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/5Pcs-Lot-3D-Printer-Accessories-Ultimaker-2-UM2-Isolator-Coupler-PTFE-High-temperature-Tetrafluoroethylene-Tetrafluoro-1/1032650_32434402408.html

and for 3mm

http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ultimaker-2-UM2-Hot-End-Isolator-Coupler-PTFE-Teflon-Inner-Sleeve-For-3mm-Filament-High-Quality/1032650_32463051846.html

This shop sells at the 1,5€ unit price, so if they last less (they do) it's normal, but for the price they last more than enough.

The bowden ptfe 6-2mm I got it from reprapworld 1€ each 10cm

http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id/438/cPath/1616_1653#.Vf3tBLxDVZI

For the 2-3mm pfa I had to buy it on aliexpress. Not cheap 23€ but it it's 5meters

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2mm-ID-3mm-OD-PTFE-TEFLON-Tubing-Tube-Pipe-hose-2x3mm-Diameter-PFA-FEP-F46/1602814951.html

Also bough some extra 6mm-4mm pfa to make a good set and also to remove some tension on the curves from the inner 2-3 pfa, that way more cheap at 2€ each meter. Good quality, weird packaging, but it's ok.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-ID4mm-OD6mm-Clear-PFA-Teflon-Bawden-Tube-3D-printer-Kossel-Feeder-Pipe-3-00mm-Filament/1967938430.html

I have not tested pfa tubing, I have it parked on the to-do, so far bowden 6-2mm works just perfect.

Enjoy the cheap couplers. To arrive to spain they took a good month to arrive. Also try to avoid EMS/UPS/DHL delivery from this shops on aliexpress since 99% of the time if you get the shipment by express customs will block it. But so far I got zero customs from the small packages that where sent by normal mail. (And they give you a tracking number with free delivery).

[Liam 1]

 

I am in the U.S. That would be great! How well does it work?

Also, for the Bowden tube, would it be possible to just slide a different tube inside the existing one? Does such a tube even exist?

 

Yes, my kit has the dual bowden thing for about $9.  You have to be careful that the inner bowden doesn't slide out through the feeder on retraction so I have a 3d printed part that takes care of this - photos on my store.

I only have one 1.75mm bowden at this time.  No one has ever ordered a 1.75mm kit despite heavy interest (none as of september 18 2015).  Again I only have one kit with bowden - the other kits are without bowden.

I have the conversion kit up on my store now (for usa,mexico,canada customers only - other's need to go to 3dsolex.com): http://gr5.org/store/

It's meant for people who have hundreds of dollars of old 1.75mm filament.  I doubt it prints any better but we shall see.  I only know of two people who think the 1.75mm *might* be better.  I'm waiting for better tests and more tests.  I have not tried 1.75mm (I don't have any filament).

 

I am new to foruming (because that is a word) and don't know how to not reply to everything, so sorry about that.

I have not received the printer yet and am planning on getting one of your kits; I will get one after I get the printer, though.

Does the purchase of a 1.75 mm. nozzle alleviate the mushrooming effect that the smaller filament can have with the original nozzle?

Also, is it $9 or $90?

Edited September 20, 2015 by Guest

[swordriff 119]

Hey!

I tried the Chinese couplers. Some work, and some not, the problem is 3-fold:

1: Teflon is not Teflon. There is a huge variety of temperature and compression resistance.

That being said, the "2-dollar" ones work If:

2: they are the right size. I bought from China and supplied one to @ultiarjan which created an instant leak. This is because if the size is not just right, they leak between block and teflon, and 3dly:

3; there is one more feature I cannot give away, but it is an engineerinf issue.

I pay 2 dollar/pcs for the material alone, which is made in Germany, and has different characteristics!

I have had much luck and fun with Chinese Teflon, Chinese can make very high quality, even your iPhone and your 8K TV is made in China, no-one else can/does do that!

So, except in some cases you get what you pay for. The low priced (intentionally avoidind the word cheap, because many or not "cheap") Teflon will last a long time.

But unless a truly high tech material is uses, it will crash sooner or much sooner, ´simple as that.

3dSolex has had 3 complaints, and immediately refunded and shipped a replacement Teflon. They are expensive at 10E each, but will last unless something wrong in manufacture or temperature fault in application machine.

Tubing

6x4 is an excellent idea, but unfortunately in some applications the clips cannot hold the tube. One fix is to print a thicker horseshoe, you find in Youmagine, Bowden Clips

Oh, and 1.75 works better with a larger ID than 2mm.

@gr5 There are 3d printers in Alixpress at 900 usd. But you cannot rely on finishing a long print etc..

I am the greatest fan of UM2 alive, because even with its "irks" and "twirks" it is the machine which most quickly just works! In afterthought many can see what could be better but bringing it out as good as it actually is,; impressive.

Id like to see the person who could have done that.!

Edited September 20, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Well I buy a lot from China basically because to get 1.75 versions of heat barrels and ptfe couplers it's the only place where they make them for umo+. Almost everything on my umo it's from ultimaker (even the leds) and I had quite a lot of bad experiences from china. Ptfe couplers so far work for 100-150h so it's nice and because I assembled the um2 motor on my umo+ I can go without extrusion problems even when they start to add friction (1.75 it much easier to push). This way I get a good 200+ h of print for coupler. Leaks I had any if the preassure it's good (thanks to the ultimaker peek that it's well manufactured). On um2 I get what you mean the gap it's much more tricky and must be perfect size to avoid leaks going up.

[robson 4]

Can anyone recommend me a fan shroud that works with Olsson block?

[gpb01 23]

Can anyone recommend me a fan shroud that works with Olsson block?

 

Have you already seen THIS ?

I'm using v2

Guglielmo

[Nicolinux 288]

Yep, Guglielmo is right. This is the best one. I added a bit of Kapton tape on the inside where the nozzle is closest to the fan shroud. Warped a bit eventhough it was printed with XT. Might try ABS next (but I printed a lot at 260°).

[Labern 774]

Actually the 45deg angle that the fans sit at is a bad design. it decreases the flow a lot as there isn't enough room on the other side of the fans for the air to flow.

[Labern 774]

it just looks nice