On UM2 you have 25W free to use since originally it was intended to support dual extrusion. The board can handle 19-24V stuff. 3Dsolex sells 35W heaters for um2.
Also available here in U.S.: http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/ultimaker2-hot-end-heater-35w.html
Thank you for the responses. I should have taken a peek under the hood to see the actual voltage. I thought there might be some headroom there with the 2nd extruder.
Also thanks for the link to the 35w heater. I may give that a go. I pulled the CF20 out today and replaced with CF PLA (sky blue - fresh out of box) and started a print (with .4 nozzle) it printed about 2 layers and clogged up. I never had clogging with the original UM2 nozzle...so I am wondering it there is some disparity between the sensor and the heater with the OB.
The PT100 didn't fit into the OB as deep as the original block (but it is in past the metal end) - I didn't want to force it in further than it wanted to go. So I am wondering if it isn't deep enough in there. The entire PT100 metal end is in there though. It seems contrary to what you would think if the nozzle was running too cool - it wouldn't get to temp until the block portion near the PT100 was heat soaked at the set point.
I'll pull it back apart and mic the depth of the original sensor hole compared to the OB and see if the depths are the same - as well as the sensor hole diameters. I might have to ream the OB open a bit...
I'll probably try the 35w cartridge with the OB & possibly a new PT100. If i can't get it dialed in, I will just put it back to the stock block. I have some E3DV6s laying around but I don't want to open up a can of worms...change one thing at a time.
Hi,
Maybe you damaged the PT-100 when installing the Olsson Block? You are the first one i hear having a worse experience after installing it!
I would also think that the PT-100 is the issue. Before you replace everything, I would suggest to remove it and give it a good visual inspection. Sometimes the metal cover around the PT-100 is dented from the factory assembly where the set screw is tightened with power tools and a little too much torque sometimes. In such a case, the metal cover does not have enough contact with the block. People have reported success fixing this by applying a little bit of heat conducting paste. You might give that one a try. Just make sure that you use a regular heat paste and not a heat conductive glue as you want to be able to remove the PT-100 later.
Even heat conductive paste drys out and will go hard. It's only really good for things like heat sinks that have a flat surface. If you do ever go to change it then you need to remove all the left over paste as the second time round the hard paste acts as and insulator and will give incorrect readings.
Some sensors just don't read the right temp and should be checked before installing.
Thanks guys. I'm not sure what the story is...It seems to be printing fine right now in XT @ 250C, 50mm/s @ .1mm w/0.4 nozzle on my test piece. Yesterday I tried it in PLA and it was a complete failure - like it was too cold or something. Material was balling up on the surface of the print. I let it lay down the first 2 layers, had to answer the phone, came back it it was a mess. I will have to investigate this PLA, as it is bread and butter per se...
I was very careful & deliberate with removing & reinstalling the PT100. In fact, I had to go through ALL of my allen keys to find the correct size for removing the factory set screw. Seems the $1.99 set I picked up was more useful than the Wiha ones I normally use. Go figure!
Since the PS should have the head room, I may replace with a 40w 24v cartridge I have here and a new PT100 just for 'maintenance'. It's been a great printer since Feb with only a few minor print failures. The extra wattage will probably help with avoiding the heater error screen of death, and if the PT100 is working correctly, it may never pull 40w except from a dead cold startup.
I probably won't use any heat paste. The factory didn't & the tolerances are close where that added material would lock it into place & pretty much guarantee that it is stuck in the block.
Thanks again. I'll post up my findings.
Edited by GuestThe latest Olsson blocks try to keep you from putting the temp sensor in so far that you'll never get it out again. That's normal.
Also the temperature is sensitive to how far in the temp sensor is in. So if it's say 5mm further out of the block than a normal block it will read about 3-5C cooler and your head will be about 3-5C hotter than with your UM block. I know this because I calibrate and test every temp sensor that I sell in my store at 260C and it matters how far into my test block I push the temp sensor.
Let us know what prices you find for the 40W versus a 39W at my store (I currently have 36W, 37W, 38W, and 39W heaters - the latest batch was all a bit high - they were supposed to be 35W - last batch was low).
If they are as good quality and cheaper then maybe I'll stop buying them from Carl. Sorry Carl.
If your material is balling up on the print bed it is either underextruding or more often you aren't leveled quite right - ignore the leveling procedure and turn all 3 leveling screws counter clockwise (as seen from below) by at least a half turn to get the glass closer to the nozzle. Do this while it's printing the bottom layer.
The latest Olsson blocks try to keep you from putting the temp sensor in so far that you'll never get it out again. That's normal.
Also the temperature is sensitive to how far in the temp sensor is in. So if it's say 5mm further out of the block than a normal block it will read about 3-5C cooler and your head will be about 3-5C hotter than with your UM block. I know this because I calibrate and test every temp sensor that I sell in my store at 260C and it matters how far into my test block I push the temp sensor.
That's good to know. The stock block the PT100 did fit in deeper than the OB. When putting the PT100 into the OB, I was able to get it in about 1mm deeper than the metal sheath on the sensor end. It told me it didn't want to go in further...so I didn't force it. There isn't much strain relief/protection where the sheath meets the wires, so I didn't want them to snap internally.
So the 'Inca Ancient Alien Airplane' test thing came out pretty good. A small bit of pillowing on the wings compared to the PLA one I did months back, so I may have to up the infill. I haven't printed much in XT. I got the block and filament last week. The only major issue is the very tip of the rear rudder is melted pretty good because it was going too slow at that point. Is there an easy remedy for this?
If your material is balling up on the print bed it is either underextruding or more often you aren't leveled quite right...
No problem on the 1st few layers or getting good stick. This happened a few layers up from there. Bed is level - I'm a CNC veteran so I've got a dial indicator telling me the real deal. 
. The only major issue is the very tip of the rear rudder is melted pretty good because it was going too slow at that point. Is there an easy remedy for this?
It's best to show pictures but assuming the rudder was getting very small at the tip and nothing else was printing the problem is the PLA never has a chance to cool as the nozzle is touching it and it turns into a blob.
The solution is to print a little tower the same height or taller than the rudder. I recommend a cuboid with the base length at least 1/5 the height. e.g. 10mm X 10mm X 50mm tall. Or 20mm X 20mm X 100mm tall. It can by pyramid shaped if you want to save even more time and filament. The purpose of the wide base is so it won't fall over right when the print is almost done and then ruin everything.
Also place the tower near the tail fin so the fans are cooling the fin somewhat while printing the tower.
...Also place the tower near the tail fin so the fans are cooling the fin somewhat while printing the tower.
Thanks. I forgot about that trick.
I've been printing XT all day with the Olsson block & .4 nozzle @ 50mm/s, .1 layers, 245C. I didn't have a part with so much flat area before, so 'pock marks'/pillowing on the top of the wings didn't show up until this part. I had to increase from 0.8 shell to 1.2mm shell & everything now looks good.
I bought stainless nozzles for the OB, including the one I have been using, because I plan to print more parts in XT CF20 & WoodFill. I see no difference between the steel and brass (which I also have for OB), so I think the whole discussion about brass vs stainless and thermal qualities is probably overated. We shall see as time goes on.
PS - Why are my keystrokes delayed when responding? Also, p.ics from the forum when you click on them won't load in Chrome. I can only see the small pic previews. Ideas?
>PS - Why are my keystrokes delayed when responding?
I *hate* that - it gets worse and worse the longer the message.
1
RE: Key delay
OK...so it happens to you too. I was going to start looking for a key logger on my PC...whew!
Greetings all. I just finished reading the whole thread...dang 
...I purchased an Ultimaker 2 Extended back in April. Must say I often joke I am the world's least mechanical male (I understood about 5% of the thread). That having been said I've had a CNC for a few years and have had a lot of fun and good successes. Since I found it was not great for small items I dove into 3D printing. Pretty good successes over the last six months...but thought the Olsson Block might help out in many areas. Got one in this week, had an un-fun day when my heat sensor snapped...but survived (wish I had read this full thread first!). Just got back into operation yesterday with some help from my customer service rep at Dynamism. Sooooo....wanted to extend my contacts via this thread as it contains many who have been doing 3D printing a LONG time specifically with the Olsson Block. Thanks in advance for answering my stupid questions
1
Hello all (another newbie here). Just finished installing my Olsson block, and everything looks great so far (although the process turned out to be much harder than I though quite a but to adjust everything without touching). Now, even though my prints look good, there is excessive noise coming from the head, which is definitely coming from the fans (when I turn fan speed down to 0% during printing, that "grinding" noise goes away). I guess I bent the shroud a bit too much, even though I don't see a visual issue (the metal is not touching anything and the cables all look to be in order). In any case, after reading a lot of the threads and posts in the community, I think I should probably get a better fan shroud, like @Labern's or something else. Thing is, I am printing only with PLA (for now at least) and so was wondering if one of you guys could print me one in XT (I will, of course, be paying for it). Thanks a lot in advance!
Chris
Hello all (another newbie here). Just finished installing my Olsson block, and everything looks great so far (although the process turned out to be much harder than I though quite a but to adjust everything without touching). Now, even though my prints look good, there is excessive noise coming from the head, which is definitely coming from the fans (when I turn fan speed down to 0% during printing, that "grinding" noise goes away). I guess I bent the shroud a bit too much, even though I don't see a visual issue (the metal is not touching anything and the cables all look to be in order). In any case, after reading a lot of the threads and posts in the community, I think I should probably get a better fan shroud, like @Labern's or something else. Thing is, I am printing only with PLA (for now at least) and so was wondering if one of you guys could print me one in XT (I will, of course, be paying for it). Thanks a lot in advance!
Chris
You could got to 3d hubs and find a hub in your area that can print in XT or Nylon and get them to print it for you. The cost will be displayed as you go through the hub selection process.
I thought that if I would be buying this, I'd much rather get it from the creator's hub, but I guess shipping from NZ to Greece would be quite expensive @Labern, right?
I thought that if I would be buying this, I'd much rather get it from the creator's hub, but I guess shipping from NZ to Greece would be quite expensive @Labern, right?
Dunno, Never sent anything to Greece
But i have no issue with it if you want me to look into it for you.
Hi Guys,
I've been messing with a design or two for replacement fan ducts, and wanted some feed back from a few of you here ( you know who 
) before I put the STL files online.
The Ducts have the same outlet area as the original metal one within a few square mm, but the flow is much better, they are designed for the level of the Olson block not the original. They are designed as two separate units, and can swivel out of the way to allow full access to the heater block, they are mounted on the two back print head assembly screws, and can swivel without interfering with the rear fan duct also fitted on my setup, and the fans are a slight push fit so no screws required. If you are running with Dual head just use a mirror version on the left hand duct. I measured a flow of about 5 m/s as you can see from the photos which was a lot higher than the 1.2 m/s I got when the I measured the original duct in a best measure position. There are two versions, one version just has duct openings on the bottom, the other version has a small notch on the side that allows a small flow to direct towards the print nozzle.
Please let me know what you think and then i'll make the files available.
cheers, Izzy
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1
The big problem I've had is not so much the airflow itself but where it gets directed. The Olsson block is prone to heater errors if the nozzle/block cools too quickly. Crank the temp up to 240C, the fan speed to 100% and print something small. If you get a heater error you may have to add a section to prevent air from cooling the block itself.
Hi mendells, I'm running with Carl's 35W heater, and like you with the origional 25W heater I was getting the error when the temperature drop 10 below the set temperature. The testing I have done with these two sets, the nozzle dropped just 2 degrees with the notch set so the air is flowing mainly to the part with just a small amount to cool the new material.
This has evened out the cooling of the Robot print with both ears, antenna and bringing looking better.
Wow. It does dual head or single. It "swings out". It doesn't need any special hardware. Fans just slide in with no screws. Better airflow. What's not to like?
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On UM2 you have 25W free to use since originally it was intended to support dual extrusion. The board can handle 19-24V stuff. 3Dsolex sells 35W heaters for um2.
Edited by GuestLink to post
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