Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[izzy 33]

Interesting, I would print off the spacers this will remove the thread Tha drops down from the bottom plate, I'm going to check the drawing dimensionsas you ducts look to be mounted lower, not close to the upper plate.

One reason may be that stainless steel threaded space looks to be screwed fully down onto the block, I think they recommend a gap of about 1-2mm

Edited November 30, 2015 by Guest

[eldrick 65]

I discovered that if the ducts hang a mm low like that, make sure the groove is snapped into the threaded rod, and then you can push it up a little and it will stay put.

However, I'm also going to print another set so I can drill out the holes with a 3mm bit, instead of 3.125mm (1/8").

[tasopoulos 40]

Could you please elaborate on what you mean by "groove"?

[izzy 33]

The groove is on the front tap and locates on the front screw to hold it in position, it supplies the resistance and hold when you swivel it out of the way.

I'm designing Version 2, which will allow for some vertical adjustment with some clip in C spacers to give 3mm (1/8") vertical adjustment.

[WiseOldOwl 7]

I know the part may need to be tweaked, but couldn't you put a piece of sandpaper on a table and rub the part back and forth on it to knock down that extra 1mm hanging down?

[DidierKlein 729]

Interesting, I would print off the spacers this will remove the thread Tha drops down from the bottom plate, I'm going to check the drawing dimensionsas you ducts look to be mounted lower, not close to the upper plate.

One reason may be that stainless steel threaded space looks to be screwed fully down onto the block, I think they recommend a gap of about 1-2mm

 

Actually the recommended gap between the teflon and the steel coupler is 2mm (For info)

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Actually the recommended gap between the teflon and the steel coupler is 2mm (For info)

 

Any idea why? it used to be 1 mm... 2mm will increase the spring pressure on the teflon, whats the benefit?

[tasopoulos 40]

 

@izzy Any news on your updated (shorter) version?

[izzy 33]

YHi Tasopoulos, I've done the Left Hand duct, I need to get some time to do the right hand one. (I have a TMA due this week for my OU course)

You will be able to adjust the height up and down by about +-3mm using either some thin spacers that just slot in on the rear screw or use a "nut" but depending on vibration etc the nut may drop so I am preferring the spacers

Edited December 5, 2015 by Guest

[tasopoulos 40]

 

@izzy Sounds good, man, can't wait!

[francfalco 37]

Just fitted the Olsson block to my UM2.

I wish i had read this thread before fitting - that temp sensor was a tricky bugger to get out of the old block, but oil, pliers and tapping the block away whilst holding onto the metal sensor finally got it free. I also found the Olson block was really hard to screw on, certainly isn't cross threaded, just really stiff in threading on?

But it has all gone back together and i have to admit that being able to change nozzles in a few minutes and the ability to experiment with different sized nozzles and materials is great!

I've put the original fans shroud back on but i see that people have been experimenting with various upgraded/redesigned shrouds, specifically for the Olsson upgrade - just wondering if there is a general agreement on if i should change shroud and if so, to which one?

Also, been testing the 0.25 nozzle - i do see a finer result but i can't quite manage to get a really clean finish - slight stringing spoils the print. Obviously, retraction and temp will be main parameters to tweak, but again, just wondering if anyone has found the 'sweet-spot' settings for the smaller nozzle?

I will continue playing - but i must say, great design and product Mr Olsson, well done and love the torque wrench too!

cheers

Franc

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Just try it.... you'll see the difference...... f.e. compare left and right ears on an ultibot.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud

[DidierKlein 729]

 

Actually the recommended gap between the teflon and the steel coupler is 2mm (For info)

 

Any idea why? it used to be 1 mm...   2mm will increase the spring pressure on the teflon, whats the benefit?

 

When i was at Ultimaker a couple of weeks ago i asked the same question, it seems that 1mm can cause leaks, they found out that 2mm was the best gap to apply to avoid this

[izzy 33]

Hi Guys, Version 2 of my Fan Ducts are now available, also giving vertical adjustment as well as swivelling out of the way, requiring no screws for assembly, any comments etc hope you enjoy. Izzy

[tasopoulos 40]

 

@izzy Yes! Thank you!

[ultiarjan 1,223]

nice logo

[izzy 33]

 

what logo

[neotko 1,417]

Ah, only 15,- I like the idea of a metal shield, I'll look into it for my E3Dv6 mount ....

Though a simple piece like that is also easy to bend and drill from alu ...

 

Finally the piece arrived and It's quite rigid but also it can be bend without problems if needed.

I need to reprint the fan caps but it's quite good.

Also with a m3 tap the screw hole finish its perfect and it 'screws' quite firm.

Edited December 15, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Seems to be working as a charm now.

Heat 5mins into printing

Heat 35mins into printing. Colored areas means +60C

Also even when going from fans 0 to fans 90% the ramp down on heat was just 2C and it recovered quite fast.

30mm/s PLA Smarfil Coral color.

Edited December 19, 2015 by Guest

[izzy 33]

Hi neotko, I found with my ones that they were effected by the bed temperature especially if I had it up around 100 degrees which was above the Tg for the PLA, I will try producing an ABS set and see how they get on, although with my removable set I can do a few layers with zero fans and no ducts fitted, pause the print, fit the ducts and fans then continue, just need to keep trailing

[phil-t 0]

Hi Guys, Version 2 of my Fan Ducts are now available, also giving vertical adjustment as well as swivelling out of the way, requiring no screws for assembly, any comments etc hope you enjoy. Izzy

 

Hi Izzy!

I've just printed a set of the fan ducts, they seem really good, and certainly a massive amount more air than stock!

My only comment on a quick print are that Instead of the 'clip' mechanism, I'd love it if the inner face was elongated and two holes put in which allowed it to screw into the existing shround mounting holes so it was strongly mechanically mounted. The reason for this is that it 'rattles' slightly and has a bit of play that means it often drops slightly on one side.

The fan mount is genius by the way, it really holds those fans in very well and I don't worry at all that one might fall out!

I only print PLA, so am hoping with a 60 degree bed temp that it will last a while..

And I've found pretty much any more than 50% fan speed can start cooling the head a little too much! I have a suspicion I'll be able to get very nice overhangs with this setup!

Edited December 19, 2015 by Guest

[izzy 33]

Hi Phil, thanks for the feed back, are you using the "V2" or the "V2R" the V2R can be easily removed. I'm supprised your getting a rattle from the mounts, there should be enough friction to hold them in place, one of the main ideas with this design was not to mount them with screws so that they swivelled out of the way, snd have an amount of vertical adjustment, although I would saw to build at 0.1mm step or better, takes longer but smoother results shouldn't rattle.

But if You guys want some that don't swivel and mount using the same screws as the metal duct, I'll do a set for you, with mounting holes, Do you want easy removal? i.e. "C" mount about the rear screw, "O" mount so that you have to undo the screw to remove.?

If you print off the ultimaker robot check out the ear cups and overhangs compared with one from a stock duct.

Edited December 19, 2015 by Guest

[phil-t 0]

Hi Phil, thanks for the feed back, are you using the "V2" or the "V2R" the V2R can be easily removed. I'm supprised your getting a rattle from the mounts, there should be enough friction to hold them in place, one of the main ideas with this design was not to mount them with screws so that they swivelled out of the way, snd have an amount of vertical adjustment, although I would saw to build at 0.1mm step or better, takes longer but smoother results shouldn't rattle.

But if You guys want some that don't swivel and mount using the same screws as the metal duct, I'll do a set for you, with mounting holes, Do you want easy removal? i.e. "C" mount about the rear screw, "O" mount so that you have to undo the screw to remove.?

If you print off the ultimaker robot check out the ear cups and overhangs compared with one from a stock duct.

 

Hi Izzy,

I quite like the 'O' mount at the back, that way if you did add the original mount holes, when you undid those, you could still swing the fan out the way, or just unscrew the rear head bolt to completely remove it.

To be honest, I only print PLA with a 60 degree bed temp, so it's more a fit and forget I'm after, but some slotted mount holes would allow me to move it up/down and get the height perfect!

I have had a couple of shutdowns due to the excess air, so am just messing with the fan speeds and duct heights to find the perfect settings!

[izzy 33]

Hi Phil, I had a quick look re the mounting screw holes, you can get most of the adjustment if I put slots in but not fully raised. I'll do you a set in the next few days, but I would say to build at 0.1mm layers.

The build you have you said rattles, is the fit too loose? The bore of the boss should just slip on the M3 screw at the back I used a 3.0mm drill to clear out the hole, and the little latch/tap on the front should hold on the front screw.

The only way I can think of just tweaking the latch is to remove the duct and using the heated bed set the temperature to 75 the TG for PLA, gently press it to the bed and then put a little bed into the latch, (watch yor fingers) when cool again it should sit firm.

[jangermann 12]

My new "design". No more heater problems. I can now run 100% fanspeed.