Real bad chewed filament - Girl needs help!

[brasil 0]

Hi there!

So, my print was finished after 3 hours and to my surprise there was no chewing.

I tryed to mesure the motor temperature with a normal home thermometer and it showed 40.9 celsius but touching the table (presset to 50 celsius) they felt the same.

I think the ventilation helped. The fan was on all the time.

I am trying some more prints and check if the problem returns.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Maybe heat is not the real problem.

The filament can get stuck in the bowden when it's grinded for a reason or another. The feeder can flatten the filament also causing more friction in the bowden tube, i guess it can be increased if the surrounding temperature is high.

Not sure if this was asked already but what is the brand of the filament? Are you sure it's 2.85mm?

 

[brasil 0]

The filament can get stuck in the bowden when it's grinded for a reason or another. The feeder can flatten the filament also causing more friction in the bowden tube, i guess it can be increased if the surrounding temperature is high.

Not sure if this was asked already but what is the brand of the filament? Are you sure it's 2.85mm?

 

I did get a stuck filament in the bowden so I cut the bowden (50mm)... After that I installed all back (bowden, feeder and performed the atomic method as I could see the end tip of the filament got black) and had no problem in my next print.

I am using the PLA that came with the machine. It is the light blue colour.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

So it's to correct diameter.

I'm just asking because it's something that happens sometimes when you buy other 3mm filaments that are truly 3mm and not 2.85mm like recommended on the Ultimaker. 3mm exactly will work, but if it's a bit bigger then it will stuck.

Anyway, i had a stuck filament a couple of days ago, could have happened on the change material procedure normally the feeder should skip (you'll hear a clicking sound) to avoid grinding.

And if an area has been grinded slightly (during priming lets say) but goes in the bowden it can get stuck pretty bad.

If it does get stuck again you can detach it from both side and either grab it with a plier or if no tube is out of the tube try to see where the filament is stuck and push with filament from the opposite side (to have the least travel).

If it's indeed a heating issue with the feeder motor maybe you can print a more opened feeder (like lRobertl's feeder on youmagine)?

 

[brasil 0]

Hello guys!

The problem has stopped! I am so relieved.

I dissasembled the feeder again, cleaned with the attomic method and got a fan working and had no more problems.

I have being running the machine and until now it is working perfectly!

Thank you for all the help!

 

[cloakfiend 995]

Damn my feeder ground the filament a bit but i just left it to print hoping it will be ok. I guess not, oh well. Ill be waking up to a mess in the morning then. I was hoping it will soften by the entrance of the head before it pushes through.

[izzy 33]

I would definatly recomend printing off the components and installing the lRobertl's feeder from youMagine, it makes swapping filament etc. much easier

I keep my feeder pressure light especially if you have a lot of retractions and allow a good air flow about the machine, even a small desk fan blowing air across the filament feeder and reel at the back if it's a warm room.

Good luck with your printing, Izzy

[paban 4]

Hello everybody

The discussion above is quite interesting and I got some important informations about the feeder system from it.

In this context,, I just wonder, what maximum temperature within the building chamber is acceptable. I just found, that Kilian Sinz in his tutorial recommends housing the printer completely (which would be for ABS printing quite useful and help to reduce the smoke problem).

I have tried once to print the Klein Bottle masterpiece from "Dizingof" with its tons of retracts (using magenta PLA from Ultimaker).

I had for this print job the printer front closed with a sheet of plastic foil and covered the top with some cardboard strips, just allowing the bowden tube and hotend to move freely.

That was working fine in the beginning, but the extrusion got lower and lower and after ca. 5 hours of printing, the machine stopped with: ERROR STOPPED, X or Y-switch stuck. To my relief I found out, that the feeder had just churned the filament almost completedly (as a newbie I am learning by doing and consulting this forum).

Any comments from the community concerning the temperature question and experiences with a housed printer are very welcome.

 

[izzy 33]

Hi Paban, ive not used ABS but mainly print with a good PLA.

I've not built an enclosure for mine as ive been building ok, but I have a stable room temperature of about 20'C some people enclose it if using some filaments due to the smell and they fit a carbon filter.

If you have a lot of retractions in a small area and if you have too much pressure on the feeder it will deform the filament and then start to grind it away, I would definatly recomend Roberts feeder as you can easly adjust the pressure and release the filament for changing. With this ive printed with ColorFabb WoodFill which is soft and can be prone to this problem if not careful.

[gr5 2,172]

You really don't need a heated chamber for PLA. When you *do* build one I recommend not letting it get much over 50C (It's actually difficult to get it to go much hotter) mostly because the steppers are in there also.

But for PLA and especially for voronoi structures you want things on the cool side and a heated chamber might actually hurt you a bit. The key for voronoi with it's many overhangs is to print cooler - maybe 200C and print slower like 1mm^3/sec (e.g. 25mm/sec at .1mm layer).

And most important of all -- FAN. Lots of fan. 100% fan. Maybe swap out fan shroud with one that has been well tested to do overhangs well. But the existing fan shroud is pretty good.

 

[paban 4]

Thanks to all for your comments, specially for the tips for printing voronois.

Kind regards from Paban