Thanks, I know support are snowed under reading other threads, so I usually ask here first since you lot are very knowledgeable! But as it seems like the answer to my issue is going to cost a bit of money I've raised a support ticket to see what can be done.
DidierKlein 729
I would say ask here before support (you'll get faster answers).
The counterSink screws should be lower can you screw them back?
As for the glass plate, if your machine is still under warranty you should probably contact support to get a new one.
If the warranty is off then you can buy it directly from the store:
https://www.ultimaker.com/products/um2-parts-print-table-glass
I've wound up the spring tension (which is effectively pulling that screw head down) quite high, and it's clear the countersunk hole diameter is a shade too small, or the screw heads are a shade too large!
I work next door to a company who sell fixings amongst other stuff, I'll see if they have some M3 x 20mm countersunk bolts in to try, if not I have found a countersink bit in work, which I could try.
I think I'm correct in saying I need to address the proud screw heads before thinking about new glass, since that is more than likely the reason it has bowed in the middle?
DidierKlein 729
Yes i think it would be better to resolve that before risking to damage a new plate, it's odd though that it would bend that much...
Maybe try to unscrew the countersunk bolts and see if something is preventing them to be tightly screwed? (maybe there's some kind of residue?). Or try to unscrew the leveling screw to a maximum (you'll need to re-level the bed). And see if it's not due to to much tension?
Unfortunately this is a known issue lately, the countersinks simply aren't deep enough. Besides causing the glass to possibly be slightly bowed when clamped (not like your glass Phil that seems to be permanently bowed) it also leads to the bed heat not being uniform across the bed.
If you're able to get the holes countersunk yourself I'd go with that as it's faster and easier than disassembling the bed. But for the glass, yeah, I'd have Ultimaker send you a new plate because that's just weird...
I'll also echo Didier on the part of posting on the forum first. There are A LOT of helpful people on here. The forums have a lot more man power than the Ultimaker office and will respond quicker in most cases (timezones can be a thing though ).
Your glass plate should be replaced by Ultimaker straight away, they won't have any problems to send you one I believe but it might take some time (technical support is pretty slow)
Regarding screws, just take a dremel and grind them down
Buy the countersink. You will use it for other things. Maybe not this year but I found mine to be incredibly useful for many projects. And it deburrs holes also. It's just a handy, cheap, light weight tool.
I suspect it's impossible to permanently bend the glass due to the screws. Of course you could flip it over and see if it corrects, lol.
Like someone else said you need to countersink those holes or the air gap will cause other more serious problems (bed at wrong temp).
UM Support can send you a new bed but it will probably take a few weeks. It's easy to open a ticket. There are probably large profit margins - just do it. Don't worry about it.
As far as buying tempered glass, what is the price for ordinary glass? I hear that works fine.
People say that really old glass windows are thicker at the bottom because glass is a liquid. Supposedly when you go through the math you would have to leave that glass vertical for thousands of years so I don't think it got bent inside your machine.
That's an old myth. Some window panes are thicker at the bottom but it's down to manufacturing techniques, not glass being liquid.
lrodriguez 32
Grinding down a screw is safer than using a counter sink on a PCB you can't buy. Screws are a dime a dozen! While you wait for a replacement of course.
Thanks again for all the great advice..
I found a countersink bit in work that I borrowed, I removed the levelling screws, and the heated bed cable retaining clamp and use the countersink in a screwdriver handle (it has a hex shank) and did all the screw holes by hand.. It took 2 hours to do the glass retaining screws and bed levelling screws, but all is nice and flush now!!
Just for a laugh, I have indeed turned the glass over so the bow is topmost and am doing some test prints and I'll keep an eye on it whilst UM support get back to me! At least I'm OK for small jobs in the centre of the glass! you never know, the heat/head pressure on the first row might magically bend it back over time!!
I'll phone around some more places tomorrow to see if I can get any cheap deals on glass, it's the rounded corners (needed for clearance with the front clips) and polished edge (to stop any cuts) that seem to add that bit more cost, but I'll see what I can find!
In London I had 2 pieces of picture glass cut and ground for £3 - the edge grinding is normal. I guess a quick chat with the grinding guy would easily round them if needed (mine was for a UM1) or go back to clips (just while you wait)
Mine is not on a hb so I would heat them up slowly, and possibly not use the fridge - though you don't hear much about cracking. (get 2 )
James
- 11 months later...
I also have a warped glass bed and warped heated bed, I had been wondering why some prints were underextruding on certain sections of the bed and not others, then I had the idea of checking if the bed was flat and it wasn't, the photos below show the glass bed one way up and then flipped and also the heated bed warping
The stats counter has never been reset, had my machine since Aug 2014
Very annoying, out of warranty but hoping Ultimaker will sort this problem out for me.
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Also just to add, I don't think the screws have anything to do with it as my glass bed warped up wards not down. I have some tiny scratches on one side and that side always faces down, the smooth side has warped upwards.
Edited by GuestUltimaker won't replace my bed! I think that's really bad considering the amount of time I've used the printer, so I would advise other people to check their beds, or be prepared for them to possibly warp!!!
Just received a brand new glass bed replacement from 3DGDIRE (uk ultimaker support) and that also has slight warp already, straight out of the packaing, I can upload photos to show.
Edited by Guest
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lrodriguez 32
Always check with support first, before even posting here. They are there to help! As for the screws I'd take those screws and hit them to a grinder.
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