Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
raptor4

Ultimaker mit einer Druckfläche von 300x300mm und E3D V6

Recommended Posts

Hallo Ultimaker Gemeinde!

Ich habe momentan einen Ultimaker 2, mit dem ich meine Teile drucken kann. Ist jedoch nur ein Leihgerät und muss bald zu seinem Besitzer zurück :wink: .

In dieser Zeit konnte ich doch so einige positive, wie auch negative Seiten des Ultimakers kennenlernen. Nun möchte ich mir einen eigenen Ultimaker bauen, jedoch mit einigen Verbesserungen.

Der Ultimaker L wird ein E3D V6 hotend haben, 8mm Wellen auch am Druckkopf, eine beheizbare Druckplatte in der Größe 300x300mm (300W), GT2 pulleys und belts oder evtl auch 1,5GT pulleys und belts usw.

Nur, theoretisch ist ja alles möglich, weiß jedoch nicht, ob ich es auch praktisch umsetzen kann!

Wollte deshalb mal bei Euch nach paar Lösungsvorschlägen und Tips fragen! Evtl. hat ja bereits jemand die gleichen Teile verbaut, gedruckt, aufgebaut usw.

Die Elektronik wird bei Sainsmart bestellt hier: http://www.ebay.de/itm/380855600808?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Mit der 1.5.7V Platine für Ultimaker, Ramps 2560 R3 usw.

Das Hotend wird wie erwähnt das E3D V6 in der Bowden Version sein. In direct drive Version wäre es ebenfalls sehr interessant, falls einer eine Idee hat, dann her damit :D . Mit dem E3D V6 hotend möchte ich PC, PA6, PETG und evtl PEI (Ultem) Filamente verarbeiten.

Von E3D wird übrigens demnächst ein neues Hotend rauskommen. Damit kann schneller gedruckt werden. Die kleinste Düse wird wohl eine 0,8mm werden. Ich weiß auch schon, wie es aussehen wird, darf jedoch keine Fotos davon zeigen. Soll aber recht bald rauskommen :wink:

Na ja, die restlichen Sachen, habe ich mir auch schon bereits rausgesucht und hoffe, dass man damit einen stabilen und genauen Drucker aufbauen kann.

Jetzt fehlen mir noch paar Lösungsvorschläge und ich hoffe, ihr könnt mir dabei weiterhelfen ;) .

1. Verwendet wird eine 24V 40W Heizpatrone und eine 24V 300W Heizplatte. Dafür möchte ich ein extra Netzteil mit 24V verwenden (restliche Elektronik läuft mit 19V). Kann ich die Heizpatrone und die Heizplatte mit je einem SSR-25DA Relais gesteuert schalten oder gibts evtl mit der Heizpatrone ein Problem?

Hier das Relais: http://www.ebay.de/itm/171329164962?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

2. Hat evtl einer von euch einen Druckkopf für ein E3D V6 hotend und 8mm Linearlager gedruckt/gefräst? Hatte zwar einige gute gefunden, jedoch sind die meisten für die 6mm Wellen/Linearlager.

3. Mit der Marlin Firmware habe ich bis jetzt noch nicht viel gemacht. Weiß jedoch wo und wie man z.b die max Temp. des hotends usw verändert/anpasst usw.

Ich nehme jedoch an, dass ich die Ultimaker2Marlin Firmware, natürlich mit anderen Einstellungen für das V1.5.7 Board verwenden kann. Oder gibts da evtl doch spezielle Einstellungen, die man nicht ändern kann?

Ich danke euch schonmal im Voraus und freue mich auf euere Vorschläge und Lösungen :D !

Gruß!

Eugen

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can answer some of your questions. I have a E3D V6. You can change the default hotend temperature and I changed it to 290 degrees. If you want to go higher you must use a thermocouple. It is possible to run the hotend with 24V and the UM board with 19V. I did not use a SSR since I had some mosfets laying arround from some other projects.

Here is the schematic as an example:

Heater

If I would buy the hotend again I would consider the 1.75 version as well. Getting 1.75 filament is easier. On the other hand you might want more speed and a larger nozzle to match the bigger build volume.

I also changed to direct drive which you might consider aswell.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Zoev89!

Thank you for your answer!

Yes, I will use a thermocouple, because I need more than 300°C. Will try to print with ultem in the future, or PC, PA6, POM! Will get PETG, PA6 and PC in the next weeks!

But, It´s possible to use SSR also for hotend, right?

3mm Filament is not the problem for me, can order directly from China. Will get also PA6 with 10% carbon fibre, if they have more time!

Can you maybe show a pic of your direct drive!?

What is with your printhead and X/Y gantry. Do you use 6mm or 8mm rods?

Best regards!

Eugen

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would not buy that solid state relay since it is rated for alternating current(AC). Since it does not show a datasheet it is unclear. If you search for that type of solid state relay you will find that they typically use a triac to do the work and those components do not switch off when used with direct current (DC). You need a solid state relay that you can operate with direct current (DC). Those devices use a mosfet to do the work. Or build something yourself, depending on your electronics skills.

For my direct drive you can have a look here:

https://73598ed76913768976b05d4e6d543375756fa93b.googledrive.com/host/0B2JSDHDkH8ZVbW8yODBRclBqRGc/3DPrinter/e3d/e3d.html

Hope you can access it...

The X/Y gantry is the standard 6mm, although some old UMO's have 8mm gantry.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh! Yes, you are right , didn´t see the AC!

Then, I would maybe use like this one: http://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-3-32V-SSR-25DD-Halbleiterrelais-hoch-zuverlassige-Temperaturregler-/251530102183?pt=Elektromechanische_Bauelemente&hash=item3a905cc5a7

But I hope, I can find it here in Germany!

Yes, direct drive is also really good, whant to do it in the same way!

So, now i need to find an stl file for the printhead with E3D V6 and for 8mm gantry. But it´s very difficult to find something. Also the twister blocks for the gantry are all for 6mm rods. I think the easiest way, is to use an 6mm gantry, but I think, it would be better to use 8mm rods for my bigger building plate of 300x300mm.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Even though there is no datasheet with that link it does look like a DC version. But if you look on the protek website I can not find info on that specific type.Usually I would like to have a conformation via a datasheet that it is the correct device. A small typo on a website can give a lot of headache. Good luck hunting to find a seller in Germany. For example at conrad you can find

507491 - 89 [Fabrikantnummer: ED06D5]. Note that need to reduce the input voltage that you get from the UM (19v) since the input is rated for 15V. Cost is about E16,-.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But the relay from Conrad is only for 5A!

Here is an SSR-DC/DC relay in Germany with heatsink: https://youprintin3d.de/hardware/heizbetten/91/ssr-relais-dc-dc-40a-mit-kuehlkoerper.html

The price is a little bit high, but ok!

Here is datasheet of it: http://www.pohltechnik.com/PDF/Bedien_SSR-500-524-zw20130701_web.pdf

I think, I will order one of that for the heatbed. Because I need 12,5A with 24V for the full power of 300W.

But will use an 12V heater for the hotend with the 1.5.7 Ultimaker PCB and reduce the power via firmware or use the relay from Conrad!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Strange the SSR does not spec its operational frequency or the turn on or turn off times. That is a risk. Likely for the heated bed it will work since that can already work with bang bang mode but I do prefer on off time being specified.

For the hotend operating the 12V heater at 19V of the UM might make the PID instable. Note you can buy a 24V version of the heater and use your 24V power supply. The only thing to do is find a SSR again or implement the circuit I have given earlier.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have an PCB for the circuit, maybe?

But, I wanted to buy an ready SSR relay, cause, have less time. The SSR relay from last post is the best for the price, which I can find here.

Yes, wanted also to use an 24V heater and heatbed with my 24V power supply, but thought it would be better to connect the heater directly to the UM board.

Best regards!

Eugen

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No PCB just a small board where I soldered the components together. This is error prone but I know how to do that. I know it will work for a long time.

Using the 24V heater directly on the board will be a bit under powered. The least amount of work is use the original 19V ultimaker heater. Disadvantage is that it will stick out quite a bit.

Given the fact that you want to build a 300x300 machine there will be no quick and easy solutions. It is

- use original heater

- buy a ssr

- build something yourself (this is what I did since the cost price was 0)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok! Thank you!

Yes, I know there is lot of things to do! Maybe, I can do an PCB with my milling machine. It´s an really easy circuit.

There is also another way! It´s possible to use the V1.5.7 UM PCB directly with 24V and with only few modifications. Here is an thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6685-24v/

And especially this post here:

Note that I believe the current board runs the electronics cooling fan and the material cooling fan from Pin. Previous versions did have connectors for fans that cam off of the 12V regulator. The current version does not.

Get yourself a voltmeter and check. However, trust me when I say I tried a 12V fan for the material cooling and it instantly went up in smoke and I measured the full on voltage at 19.5V.

I don't have access to the schematic from where I am but look at it on UM's open source site. Pin is labelled VCC/2, Notice that VCC/2 is taken straight from the power connector. VCC/2 is what is send to both the material and electronics cooling fans.

On the current board, I believe the only thing that runs from 12V is the Arduino.

If you move to 24V, the things you need to be concerned about are:

The heater (probably OK as it is listed as 18V and controlled via PWM)

The 12V material fan currently driven at Pin will run at 24V (will probably burn out)

and a few LEDs (may burn out)

The heat from the 12V regulator if used.

As for the MOSFETs -The hotend heater MOSFET will probably be ok.

You might be able to use the HB MOSFET on board IF you use a heavy gauge jumper on the critical traces. I believe it is a low side switch so one leg goes to ground. Use a jump to that pin and connect to - on your 24V PS. The other pin goes to the screw terminal. Back that up with a jumper. The third (middle I believe but don't trust that, find a spec sheet or the schematic) other is the signal and you don't need to do anything with that. The other screw terminal is connected to VCC/2 which is Pin so use a jumper to connect it to + on the PS. Carefully monitor the connector to see if it is heating up due to the HB current.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can actually make a PCB with your 3D printer ;)

Prototype - front viewPrototype - rear viewschematics

Note: I never got around to finish that part - as it is shown in this album, it doesn't work. There's an error in the connections... But in principle - this works very well and is an easy way to go.

Btw, the schematics are correct and are working well on my UMO. Just the printed thingy has an error - it doesn't match with the schematics.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jonny!

Thank You!

I´ve found an other special expander board for hotend and heatbed. It´s also cheaper and practical then an SSR here in Germany.

Ordered here 4pcs: http://www.ebay.de/itm/271543985231?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

So, now I´m waiting for my printer parts Flex3Drive, heatbed, E3D V6 and so on. But, still need some printed parts for the gantry and so on. I´ve seen You wanted to use the Reptar XY- Version Two blocks (nhfoley) . Do you have maybe the step file of it? Because, need it for 8mm gantry rods and nhfoley didn´t answer!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Power expander is a nice thing - pretty much the same as I'm making (except it doesn't seem to have ESD protection on the output - but maybe I'm just not seeing it), except of course it's put on a nice PCB.

I don't have the step files for the Reptar blocks, sorry. I printed them and broke one right away - much too slim and fragile design for my taste...

I made my own blocks in the meantime, but din't get around to test them (not even printed them yet...).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you give me an stl file for your blocks, for testing? But please, if can, change it for an 8mm gantry! That would be very cool!

Hope, You can do it!

I´m trying to implement the Flex3Drive to the printhead with an E3D V6 hotend at this time, seems to be a good solution for an extruder! I hope, to get the parts as soon as possible!

Maybe, it´s also something for you?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you give me an stl file for your blocks, for testing? But please, if can, change it for an 8mm gantry! That would be very cool!

Hope, You can do it!

I´m trying to implement the Flex3Drive to the printhead with an E3D V6 hotend at this time, seems to be a good solution for an extruder! I hope, to get the parts as soon as possible!

Maybe, it´s also something for you?

 

My sliding blocks won't work for you, because I've changed the distance between the 6mm rods that hold the hotend. My custom UM build has several changes like this and can therefore only be used as a whole - using only parts of it doesn't work. I'll stick to 6mm rods for the first build. Don't believe they're a problem unless you increase the x-y build size.

I believe that a good bowden setup works very well - for now, I don't see any need of abandoning that design. At least not for something that would cost a lot more than a bowden setup. My printer variant will be expensive enough I'm afraid :p

/edit:

About the optical isolation:

This is not necessary unless you have some really weird power supply setup, like an AC heater instead of 12 or 24 V DC. It can't hurt of course, but imho it's a waste of electronic components.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also tried FreeCAD it looks compelling but I could not build further on an array of objects (at that time) so there I stopped.

I use OpenScad. You need to be a programmer nerd to like it. But it gets the job done for what I am using it for. Making hierarchical draws it works well. Making rounded faces is a drag in OpenScad.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Daid recommended DesignSpark Mechanical - I tried it (briefly) and I'm pretty impressed! It looks very easy to handle, yet still powerful. It's free.

Didn't make any 3D constructions with it yet, only 2D sketches for lasercutting.

For 3D stuff I still use Sketchup 8. The fact that it's a 3D drawing program instead of CAD makes it by far the easiest software to use for anyone who has no idea whatsoever about 3D CAD.

If you're using Sketchup, you just have to know one thing: You basically have to draw every single line by yourself. Chamfering? Nope - draw it yourself....

Radius chamfering? Very tedious work... But it does work. There are of course tricks with Sketchup - but they usually don't work when you want to do very special stuff (like converge chamferings of different sizes for horizontal and vertical chamfers).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK! Thank you!

For me, it´s very important to have an cad software , which isn´t to complicated. I´ve tried turbocad, there are so many features, useful and not. So, freecad is better in some cases. For example, if you want to draw an circle 5mm away from an edge, than it´s easy to do that. In turbocad not.

But, want to try the DesignSpark Mechanical also.

Another problem: Did you try to print with PA or PC ?

Tried to print with PA6 and PC, but had always warping.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!