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drumrboy44

Just bought UM2 after owning UM1 - What do I need to know?

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Hi all. I had the UM1 original for over a year and a half before deciding to add a UM2. What do I need to know about the UM2 that may be different from the UM1 to keep it working? Are there any essential printable (or non-printable) upgrades? Do I need to print at different temperatures? Are there particular bugs that I will likely run into that I should keep an eye out for?

Thanks in advance!

 

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I'm was in the same boat as you, I got a UM2 1.5 years after getting the UMO.

It works pretty much the same but it's much more automated and menu driven. So the biggest change is really the mentality going from manual/tactile to auto. No spinning the gear in the back to frontload filament pressure, no decoupling the filament and yanking the filament. No tossing rubbish under the printbed. (because it rests on the bottom)

Half the settings are set on the UM2 rather than Cura. Such as filament diameter, temperature, retraction settings. So you'll have to get use to using machine profiles rather than setting those things in Cura.

The temperatures seem to be the same for me going from UMO to UM2. Everything else is very much the same. You can have multiple machine profiles in Cura so you can quickly switch between slicing for UM2 and UMO.

The best thing is how automated it is once it's setup. You can hit print and be relatively sure it'll do it's thing. You don't need to watch the first layer go down, preload pressure etc. When it's done it pops off the glass and you just start another one without worries.

There is a longer heating/cooling period for the heated bed however, but that's a tiny price to pay to not have to deal with tape.

As for printable upgrades, you can print this guy:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

I usually don't fix things that aren't broke so I haven't tried it yet. But I've heard good things.

Oh and it's prettier. :p

 

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Don't modify the UM2. It's fine as is.

It tends to have more underextrusion issues than the UMO but you should be fine the first month. :)

Some differences:

Learn to love the glass. Don't put any damn blue tape on there! Embrace the glass. Print PLA on 50C bed. If you print on 70C bed you will get some weird curve at the base of your prints that looks like warping but isn't.

Glue stick is fine but elmer's wood glue mixed with 20 parts water and paint-brushed on and dried is better. Or if you use the glue stick use a wet tissue to spread it thinner. You shouldn't be able to see the glue when you get it right.

Only use the level procedure once. After that you can do fine tweaking by turning the 3 leveling screws. It will retain it's position for months/years.

I never replace the filament using the menu - just pull it out and push it in through the feeder. You have to push kind of hard but it's easier/faster than those silly menus.

Learn about "cold pull" or "atomic method" and use it every time you change filaments.

 

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I never replace the filament using the menu - just pull it out and push it in through the feeder. You have to push kind of hard but it's easier/faster than those silly menus.

 

Huh now you tell me! You get those gunky blobs and the machine tries to yank out the whole thing through the bowden tube...

I quite like how it feeds the material automatically but not how it takes it out.

 

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And it's even easier with Robert's feeder :) i never do it either, i don't like how it pulls it out so fast and often leaves a little part of filament in the bowden (or in the feeder).

Except that i have nothing to add, there are several things you can print for the UM2, but they are not mandatory as said.

Personnaly on mine (Sponsored by IRobertI :mrgreen: ) I have:

Robert's feeder (very usefull) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

Robert's low friction SpoolHolder (decreases under-extrusion) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder

Robert's cable chain (just fancy) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-cable-chain

I also have this bowden locking clip which is usefull if you need to do atomic pulls regularly and that the standard clips flies away everytime you try :mrgreen:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bowden-locking-clamp-clip

There seem to be some interesting fan holders mods too that are usefull (Venkel designs) but mine kepts melting so i kept the original fan mount

 

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Don't modify the UM2. It's fine as is.

It tends to have more underextrusion issues than the UMO but you should be fine the first month. :)

 

Lol, that must sound reinsuring ;)

I think the temperature is about the same, however the heater block is smaller. So if you increase speed I think you have to print at a slightly higher temp compared to the Ultimaker Original.

 

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+1 for Robert's feeder, though I actually use this variant of it because it straightens the filament too. You should print your preferred variant out ASAP, even if you have no intention of fitting it right away. Don't wait until the underextrusion is so serious that you no longer have the option to print it!

I also like to use a printed filament guide to guide the filament away from the UM2 power cord. And Robert's filament cleaner widget.

Judging from this thread, if Robert designed it, then probably you should print it. :)

 

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Thanks for all the suggestions! I should have two printers up and running soon again (cracked brass pipe trying to reduce leakage in UM1). I also need to find space for it in my apartment...

Anyway it seems to be printing just fine. I have a somewhat dusty environment, so that new filament cleaner should work well. I haven't tried ABS yet, either. Any tips on ABS before I give that a try?

 

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