Don't modify the UM2. It's fine as is.
It tends to have more underextrusion issues than the UMO but you should be fine the first month.
Some differences:
Learn to love the glass. Don't put any damn blue tape on there! Embrace the glass. Print PLA on 50C bed. If you print on 70C bed you will get some weird curve at the base of your prints that looks like warping but isn't.
Glue stick is fine but elmer's wood glue mixed with 20 parts water and paint-brushed on and dried is better. Or if you use the glue stick use a wet tissue to spread it thinner. You shouldn't be able to see the glue when you get it right.
Only use the level procedure once. After that you can do fine tweaking by turning the 3 leveling screws. It will retain it's position for months/years.
I never replace the filament using the menu - just pull it out and push it in through the feeder. You have to push kind of hard but it's easier/faster than those silly menus.
Learn about "cold pull" or "atomic method" and use it every time you change filaments.
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valcrow 145
I'm was in the same boat as you, I got a UM2 1.5 years after getting the UMO.
It works pretty much the same but it's much more automated and menu driven. So the biggest change is really the mentality going from manual/tactile to auto. No spinning the gear in the back to frontload filament pressure, no decoupling the filament and yanking the filament. No tossing rubbish under the printbed. (because it rests on the bottom)
Half the settings are set on the UM2 rather than Cura. Such as filament diameter, temperature, retraction settings. So you'll have to get use to using machine profiles rather than setting those things in Cura.
The temperatures seem to be the same for me going from UMO to UM2. Everything else is very much the same. You can have multiple machine profiles in Cura so you can quickly switch between slicing for UM2 and UMO.
The best thing is how automated it is once it's setup. You can hit print and be relatively sure it'll do it's thing. You don't need to watch the first layer go down, preload pressure etc. When it's done it pops off the glass and you just start another one without worries.
There is a longer heating/cooling period for the heated bed however, but that's a tiny price to pay to not have to deal with tape.
As for printable upgrades, you can print this guy:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
I usually don't fix things that aren't broke so I haven't tried it yet. But I've heard good things.
Oh and it's prettier.
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