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Hi pm_dude

So what is "3DLac" ?...

Googled: spray adhesive ... How good is this stuff? Experience with it? Is it harmful? It stinks? It can be easily and completely removed?

PLA-HT >>>

My spools (InnoFill and Ultimaker) regularly for 750 grams Material: Empty Weight ~ 248 grams.

The big Multec spool regularly for 2 KG Material and presumably quite common for welding wire: Empty Weight ~ 606 grams.

I (in fact) received 2,200 grams. I have found out only because I wanted to bring the material to smaller spools. Out of curiosity, I then re-weighed anything once. I am not sure, whether it is an intentional thing from the manufacturer, and it will be so always 10 percent more material.

Including delivery (Germany) I have a price of ~ 22 euros calculated for a 750 gram unit, if you buy 2 KG and obtain 2.2 KG. This is for (in fact) a very special filament, an almost unbeatable Price.

The first results from Takei, really let me hope for good. And I can hardly expect even get started with it.

This PLA-HT (White) is from Multec also called "Nature / Natural". Probably change color additives, the material properties very strong. I hope nevertheless that there will soon be a color selection.

Markus

 

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    Hi Markus,

    3d lac stinks for like 10 secs. I apply very few. A quick press and thats it. Sticks well on tape or heater bed (not on cold glass). It solved my warping problems with XT. I use it on some PLA prints I want to make sur it wont lift. Most of the time I do many prints with the same thin layer.

    When the glass is cold the print is easy to remove and its easy to wash off with some water.

    So far I'm very happy with it.

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    Thx.... happy to hear i did not order some wrong advertising..... sad that you dont have some PLA-HT to test adhesion with it... well.... will probably be the first one to test :D

     

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    Finally, Blue Tape in place and now I can make a few tests, some free hours are left.

    And by the way, maybe a few stupid questions:

    How often can you print on a sheet Blue Tape?

    Or blue tape must be used each time new?

    Markus

     

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    You can re-use the blue tape many times.

    I only replace it when it is torn.

    Today I made some test-prints with Multec's PLA-HT and blue tape on my heated bed. No issues, fantastic print results.

    kraken.jpg

    0.1mm layers, 220°C nozzle, 60°C bed, 50mm/s

    Source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607518

     

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    Uuuh, that looks surprisingly good. :-) :-) :-)

    !!! Please post your proven Settings and general experience !!!

    I had to wait for BlueTape a few days. Now I have 50 meters original BlueTape from 3M, and can finally coat a glass plate with it. Directly on glass I did not try to print PLA-HT. My two special printing plates are (... for sure an expensive mistake) for normal PLA barely better than to print directly onto glass, so they appear to me to be unsuitable for PLA-HT. Moreover, it is hard to find specialty printing plates, which are very plan over its entire surface, this makes it very difficult to adjust the print bed really good. Kapton I made very little attempt, it seemed very difficult to get it clean (...without bubbles) on a glass surface, here I also do not know if it would work with PLA-HT.

    And so I spent some time with other thoughts, a comprehensive cooling optimization of the complete UM2 printhead.

    Here's a first impression, as I imagine it:

    Project #0915

    A snapshot, not ready, not printed, not tested, but I'm really looking forward to try it. This will be my first object for a meaningful application with PLA-HT.

    Markus

     

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    @blecheimer: GREAT RESULTS!!!!

    I'm very happy that it works with "low" temperature (my heatbed reaches 65 degree but not much more...).

    Next step: order :-)

    Thank you again for testing!!!

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    Ok Guys.... PLA-HT is now my new favorite Material in terms of properties. I can now confirm that it sticks with 3dlac very very well. Better than even normal PLA with the standard Gluestick. I am just printing my first print with it though and the used bed temp is 70°. Will post later how well the prints get off the buildplate after it has cooled down. The Print will take about 8h.

    @Sander You guys should maybe consider taking this stuff into your portfolio. Both the HT and the 3dlac of course.

     

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    Awesome. I'm happy 3DLac worked for HT!

    @Markus, your idea for the print head seems quite large. Also try keeping a good gap in z to clear the glass clips otherwise you will greatly reduce the your build size. I'm looking forward to see some more :).

    I use this one and it touches the glass clips a little. It could be my nozzle being too tight fit.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-base-um2

     

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    Sorry again for this different from the main thread Topic :oops:

    And yes, I already know a few alternative UM2 fan-trays from YouMagine. Probably all Available are more efficient than the original, which I still use. This is precisely the reason for my own (learning and doing in 3D) optimization experiments.

    Really, it looks extremely fat, but there is no danger of collision. In fact, only the upper extent is different from the UM2 original design. Compared with the original fan-sheet my design has an almost identical width, slightly less depth, and a nearly identical extent in the direction to the glass surface. With the perforated-insulator-screw the whole Hotend can be adjusted in height, which should help to drive over the PrintBed RetainingClips.

    I'm almost done with it and now I just have to find the ideal print positions, as well as generate a suitable support material itself, so that the two objects can be finally tested and then offered for free use. If all goes well, 12 screws on the print head are suddenly superfluous. Above the printhead, it is then more efficient cooling. And maybe meet the divided air ducts to cool the object being printed.

    Back to PLA-HT:

    Since I would be very interested in what temperature above the manufacturer's specification 84-90 degrees, in fact, the material begins to flow by gravity. Would the lower part of a fan-sheet made from PLA-HT melt, for example, at 110 degrees to the printing surface?

    Markus

     

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    Are you referring to the heat coming from the heated bed?

    If its thin maybe it could make it warp a little but since the fan create a flow (might be off on first layer) it should stay at a pretty low temp. Worst case a little section of aluminum sheet or beer can could be enough to block it.

     

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    Yes that's what I meant.

    I have somewhere a residual aluminum with single-sided self-adhesive surface, it is for electronic-shielding, thin and easy to cut to size, it should be sufficient as a heat reflector?

    Markus

     

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    OK Guys print is done.... the PLA-HT still sticks quite stongly to the 3dlac even after it has cooled down and gives a very glossy finish on the bottom. Over all i am still quite happy with the results.

    @Offtopic

    I am personally using a hand modified Zetoff Fanshroud. I think it does its job quite well. Naturally printed in PLA-HT

     

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    With what you've got it down, there is a risk of damaging something?

    Material-feeding (all feeders) generally reliable?

    Do you have more tests done in terms of quality of the overhangs, stringing, speeds, fracture behavior, or something else?

    Markus

     

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    I am currently doing a real overhang test, since i never could get higher than maybe 2mm without the test detaching from the buildplate. In its fracture behaviour it behaves much like ABS but with the layer adhesion of PLA. Stringing is so far as i have found not a real Problem as is oozing from the nozzle.

    In terms of Printing speed it can be handled like PLA.

     

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    Ok Overhang test is finished. On the left we have the 70° angle going down in steps of 5° toward the right.

    Picture 1

    Picture 2

    Settings were 210° 55° 100 percent fan

    You can see the head was moving to the right where the material was not cooled right since the

    Head moved away to fast.

     

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    What speed and layer height?

     

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    30mm/s and i think 0.12 or 16mm layer height..... would have to look into the gcode again

     

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