ERROR STOPPED : Heater Error

[mghtbgiant 0]

Evan, what do you have to report?! I have also printed Spirit's fan mount and am currently waiting the roll of Kapton tape. I wonder if the design (which covers the hotend, isolating it from the fan-blow) would help this issue.

I'm still unsure as to the best way to solve this. I understand the point of the new check. If we are using a modified fan-mount, should we lower the fan speeds in the expert settings? If so, what is a good range?

It's my understanding that when the fans kick on, they cool the hotend to the point where the software things there's a malfunction. So, again, maybe Spirit's design, which covers the hotend, will help minimize the fans cooling of the hotend which should, in theory, help (if not solve) the issue.

My Kapton tape should be here today or tomorrow. Once I get it, I will install and update to the latest firmware. I will run some tests as before, with Venkel's mount, my printer would error out the instant the fans kicked on.

 

[evan 1]

mghtbgiant,

The print finished without a problem. the cover on spirit's fan shroud is really close to the heater block. I printed mine with bridge nylon for better heat resistance and have been getting some discoloration. Another solution may be to cover the gap on the Venkel shroud with some kapton tape to block the wind.

 

[mghtbgiant 0]

As a follow-up to my previous post. I finally got the Kapton tape for use on Spirit's fan mount. I'm happy to report, my printer is functioning as expected and hasn't had the dreaded "Heater Error" with this new mount. I am printing something really small so it'll only be going for about 20 minutes, but before, as soon as the fans kicked on, the printer would crash.

That said, I made a small modification to Spirit's mount as I couldn't get the ears on top to print very well. And, I'm going to make another mod to where I can adjust the mount vertically. Part of my first modification was to change the mount holes from the oblong (horizontally variable) holes to standard rounds. Now, with all the Kapton tape, the mount/tape rests against the hotend which I don't want.

 

[mghtbgiant 0]

mghtbgiant,

The print finished without a problem. the cover on spirit's fan shroud is really close to the heater block. I printed mine with bridge nylon for better heat resistance and have been getting some discoloration. Another solution may be to cover the gap on the Venkel shroud with some kapton tape to block the wind.

 

I printed mine in ColoFabb XT for better heat resistance over PLA. But, even WITH the Kapton tape, it warped on the bottom. I think you're right about the bottom.. maybe I should modify it with a channel to slide in a thin piece of aluminum (from a soda can or something) and remove the plastic covering the hotend altogether. I think I like that idea. The Kapton tape would work in the interim but will eventually fail when the heat ruins the adhesive.

I wonder if I have a punch to pop the hole into the aluminum piece. Or, I could probably just use an Xacto knife.

I'll see if I can get something whipped up today for this. In any case, I'm happy that the printer worked fine and it was just a matter of the fans overcooling the hotend.

 

[mghtbgiant 0]

Ugh.. maybe not. making the slot for the aluminum would be horizontal which would require some rework on the model.. so, for now, i just slapped the Venkel mount back on with the quick-fix of Kapton across the bottom just to see if that will work. I think the Spirit mount will work great if the mount tabs are given just a skosh more height and make the screw slots adjustable vertically. This should allow the bottom of the mount to hang below the hotend enough to not warp.

I was actually quite surprised when I removed the mount to see the Kapton wasn't warped.. but the plastic under it was. That's some pretty awesome stuff!

 

[mghtbgiant 0]

But, the Venkel mount with tape over the hotend gap seems to be doing the trick as well.

 

[apullin 0]

Time for a little thread necromancy. I just wanted to add on here, after I encountered this heater error problem on an Ultimaker 2, and determined the cause was the AC/DC adapter power supply.

Our heater error was caused by using the wrong power supply with the Ultimaker 2. Our was not broken, we just used the wrong supply.

It turns out that the OtherMill machine (from OtherLab) uses a power supply with exactly the same 4-pin connector, and a similar looking power supply, but it runs at 15v and a lower maximum current.

The UM2 seemed to be operating fine, with no visible damage or heater pull-out, but could not reach operating temperature. The symptom of limited ability to heat led me to believe that a current limit was the cause.

Since the Ultimaker and OtherMill are sure to be common fixtures in many makerspaces and workshops, this accidental power supply swap may happen again. This was the first hit on Google when searching for the heater error.

[seipia 1]

Hi

I get the same problem, you can read a lot of topic about that, control the heater, the temp sensor...

I suppose you have test all that.

Hi

First, I suppose you have contyroled the heater and the right position inside the head.

for me, the problem was only the temp of the room! My UM2 is not in the house and winter is coming.

when the temp is above 12°C, I get heater error and I have to reduce the speed of the fan under 20%.

The heater power is only 21 or 25W and when the air is too cold, it can't assume the correct heating.

In The firmware, you have a test : if the temp is 10°C under the set point more than 30" is stop with "heater error"

Regards

[Volpino74 1]

 

Well, I was using 14.12.1

Let me roll back to 14.07 and report what happens.

Anool

 

That's not the solution.

This error happens when your heater needs to supply a LOT of power to get even a decent amount of heating (about 3x more power then required on average). This indicates a problem at the heater or temperature sensor.

It could be that the temperature sensor or the heater is not properly inserted in the hotend. Which is what this new error (introduced in 14.12) is meant to protect against. As a partially inserted heater could mean the heater burns out, and a partially inserted temperature sensor could mean the hotend is a lot hotter then actually configured, causing burned up teflon parts and burned up printer materials.

 

Hello David! I have a 2 Ultimaker I was replacing the PTFE and unscrew the insulator Hot End and 'broken, I've ordered one in the meantime, however,' in the meantime I tried to frne one on the wheel but I just like the ttone material! Remount all, turn on the printer and when I try to heat the extruder temperature to about 100 degrees rises quickly but then begins to slow down to about 194, and is outside the error Error Stopped - Heater Error! The thermistor and heating cartridge is inserted correctly, it could be that the insulator emergency that I made of brass is the cause that affects the temperature of the extruder in the sense that what should be made of brass for strength in stainless steel as I assume is the original appuntoper insulate heat ??? Excuse the inconvenience and thank you very much! Romagnoli Alessandro

[valentt 0]

Hi

I get the same problem, you can read a lot of topic about that, control the heater, the temp sensor...

I suppose you have test all that.

Hi

First, I suppose you have contyroled the heater and the right position inside the head.

for me, the problem was only the temp of the room! My UM2 is not in the house and winter is coming.

when the temp is above  12°C, I get heater error and I have to reduce the speed of the fan under 20%.

The heater power is only 21 or 25W and when the air is too cold, it can't assume the correct heating.

In The firmware, you have a test : if the temp is 10°C under the set point more than 30" is stop with "heater error"

Regards

 

I have same issue, when head is heating for first time it sometimes stops with "heater error". I have E3D V6 hotend for UM2 which uses also PT100 sensor and it is bigger that original E3D V6 hotend and much bigger that original UM2 hotend.

How can I make this check a bit slower? Or how to make target temperature lower? I guess that software does these checks in steps...

This is how I guess this check works: target temp is set to 220°C, so software reads current temp and sets it needs to be at +5 degrees in 30 seconds.

This target is achievable on low temperatures, but if printer stops and I need to power it off and on again, now temp is at 150°C on power on, and this is starting temp, and target temp is probably set to 155° in 30 seconds. But from power on until going trough menues now temp has fallen to 148°C and it needs more time to catch up to target temp.... but before it does I get new "heater error" and need to go trough this process again... and again... and again...

Any ideas how to fix this issue for good?

[valentt 0]

Found it:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L171

I'll put 5 degrees instead of 10 for E3D V6 head and this should fix it.

[aroth 1]

Time for one more round of necromancy.

I just updated my UM2 firmware for the first time ever, after installing Cura 2.5.0 and having a print fail 3 times in a row at exactly the same spot. I thought that maybe there was some issue between the new Cura and the old firware version, so went ahead and updated the UM2 (and seems I may be right, as the print is just finishing up now).

Like others in this thread, I'm using Venkel's fan mount, and had the printer set to run the fans at 100% after the initial layer. The first print I tried after updating the firmware failed almost immediately after the fans switched on, with the "Heater Error (ER03)" message.

After seeing this thread I retried the same print with the same settings, manually dropping the fan speed down to 50% as soon as they switched on. That did the trick, with no other fiddling (or a factory reset) required. I also noticed that at 100% fan speed, the printhead temperature can drop by at least a solid 15 degrees. At 50% it holds steady on its target temperature. Anything above 60% on the fans and it starts dropping.

Guess now I just have to remember to dial the 50% fan speed into Cura every time.