I've done PLA+PVA. But ABS+Ninjaflex could be beyond Cura's complexity right now. Due to ninjaflex requiring a pretty low printing speed. (unless you print both very slow)
I guess this will be considered in PU? So there is not much sense in writing a plugin for the present Cura version to achieve independent settings for the two extruders, right?
what is PU ?
PU stands for "Pink Unicorn" which is the code name for the next iteration of cura.
A much fabled beasty, heading our way sometime.
A Pink Unicorn 
:-P
haha, thanks guys! I saw that youtube video with David Braam -
That is one smart guy! is he on these forums? would like to extend a thank you for his hard work (although I've not used Cura yet, from my research it appears for doing multi-material dual extrusion parts Cura is the best slicer to use.
Still trying to decide on a machine, thinking I need direct drive extruders for ninjaflex though?
on another point, is there really anything so magical happening in Simplify3D in terms of their slicing engine and algos that justify it's price? I know they have some really nice things for support placement and auto generation.. but for dual extrusion I've read Cura is better.. so I'm all sorts of confused why folks pay for Simplify3D.. maybe I'm missing something.
is he on these forums?
It was the first guy that replied to you (Daid)
no kidding! David, great work!!!
If anybody wants to try a dual extrusion hybrid print with Ninjaflex+ABS or Ninjaflex+PETG I can upload a file, let me know. Would be interesting to see how Cura handles it.
I'm not sure if anyone has dual printing working well. I've seen 5 color printing with 5 nozzles. It's not too bad I guess.
Anyway if you are in the market for a printer I suggest this impressive printer comparison:
http://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
has anybody seen the new Artifex 2 DUO machine.. it comes ready to go with dual extruders and looks very impressive with doing flexible filaments. http://www.3dmakerworld.com/artifex2/gallery
the only really successful dual with ninjaflex and abs that I have seen is James Bruton xrobots (youtube) on a lulzbot where they have developed direct drive extruders (flextruders).
On my UMO I can print ninjaflex but it needs to be sloooooow.
So far even though I can, I have only printed a few things (watch strap, blade covers etc) and soon swap back to PLA or XT.
you think ColorFabb XT will replace ABS ? I wonder if the Ninjaflex will weld to the XT like ABS does?
has anybody seen the new Artifex 2 DUO machine.. it comes ready to go with dual extruders and looks very impressive with doing flexible filaments. http://www.3dmakerworld.com/artifex2/gallery
Never trust the globe dual color print:
http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20121026_213054.jpg
First ever print I did with dual-color at Ultimaker HQ.
Looks ok from that side, horrible from the other. This print gives a very false impression from dual-color printing.
You can also see some under extrusion problems in the Artifex globe as well.
My globe above, was produced with the same dual extrusion UM (v1 hotend) as this print:
http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120514_091428.jpg
Which shows more of how the reality was back then. (taken mid till end 2012)
Right now, with the V2 hotend, in the UMO. We get results like this, fresh out of the printer, no cleaning:
http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20130621_134822.jpg
http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20130613_124107.jpg
That's the reality of dual extrusion. Sorry.
damn, the truth can be tough.
thats the clearest message on dual printing i've seen all year.
Hmm, next time we should post pictures faster. Most of R&D has been telling that dual extrusion is hard, but pictures do tend to get the point across a lot better.
I think the V2 hotend versions are not yet the best an UMO can do. Most probably these pictures were taken before ooze shield and wipe&prime tower were introduced in Cura, right?
I think the V2 hotend versions are not yet the best an UMO can do. Most probably these pictures were taken before ooze shield and wipe&prime tower were introduced in Cura, right?
Yes, and those help a bit, but these latest pictures where also taken with very slow printing and very low temperature.
The UM2 hotend design also helps a bit on the oozing.
There is something else which helps quite a lot: Switching the idle extruder to a temperature where it doesn't ooze. 
And btw: Increasing the distance between ooze shield and print makes sure the print still gets some cooling. :huh:
And Daid, have you seen my question in post no. 3?
There is something else which helps quite a lot: Switching the idle extruder to a temperature where it doesn't ooze.
And btw: Increasing the distance between ooze shield and print makes sure the print still gets some cooling. :huh:
And Daid, have you seen my question in post no. 3?
See how I sometimes totally mis something. Twice?
Yes. The PU engine is addressing "per extruder settings", however, we haven't worked out the GUI part of this yet. So work for this is being done. But it's a complex issue.
And the "cool down unused extruder" only works for large prints, and my test prints where not that large that you could get significant cooldown. (Once again, the UM2 will help a bit at this aspect)
See how I sometimes totally mis something. Twice?
Well, you found it...
About the cooling down: Assuming you print quite slowly (and as cool as possible which is anyway an advantage for a dual extrusion print) then the gain of cooling down the nozzle is quite significant. I found idle times from about 45s to benefit from the cooling down. However, the real gain you get from cooling down when the unnecessary extruder swaps (on layers where only one material is needed) are eliminated.
That's actually how I made these guys:
And this is the 'Making-Of':
Just ignore the shape of the prime&wipe tower; I was playing around with the CuraEngine at that time...
Looks nice!!! Great result just looking at your pictures.
B.t.w. How does the shield at overhangs? Any effects on the print part itself?
B.t.w. How does the shield at overhangs? Any effects on the print part itself?
With the standard distance from the object (2mm or 3mm iirc) the shield blocks the air flow which leads to uglier overhangs. That's why an increased distance (I used 5mm) is better.
edit: I even had one case with the standard distance where object and ooze shield were fused due to a misformed overhang; that object was actually a sphere.
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Daid 306
I've done PLA+PVA. But ABS+Ninjaflex could be beyond Cura's complexity right now. Due to ninjaflex requiring a pretty low printing speed. (unless you print both very slow)
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