use M999 to restart

[kyma5 2]

Hi

After reading a lot of threads, I started my Ultimaker with cura. Upgraded the firmware. Started the first step wizard.

Now I found the error message:

Error:

Extruder switched off, MAX TEMP triggered !

Error:

Printer stopped deu errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart.

I controlled the cabel connection (yellow / red ) on the head, it's correctly connected, yellow on the left, red on the right. I've checked all connections on the PCB, no visible problems..............

What should I do now?

Thanks for Help.

kyma5

[Daid 306]

The MAX TEMP trigger means it's reading a temperature over 275C, at which point the Firmware decides "no way this is safe, I better switch off!"

Checklist:

Is the blue light on?

Is the 3 pin temperature cable properly connected on both ends? Make sure it's firmly inserted. And connected to temp1 not temp2 or temp3.

There should be no resistors at locations R4,R21 and R23. These empty spots are slightly below the Temp1 connection. See:

http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Circuit_complete.jpg

(I've never seen someone report that they where placed, but it never hurts to check)

As a follow up question, do you have a multimeter?

[kyma5 2]

There is no blue light. Where should it be? Head or PCB?

The 3 pin temperature cabel ist firmly connected at both ends. Connected to temp1.

No resistors at R4,R21 and R23.

Yes, I've a multimeter.

Thanks

[Daid 306]

There should be a blue light on top of the head. Like this:

http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:TC-0.9- ... ned_on.JPG

With the multimeter, measure the voltage between the center pin of the 3 pin connector, and the one closest to the edge of the board. There should be 5V here. Measure the same on the electronics side to see if you might have a defective cable or a defective board.

The voltage between the outer 2 pins should be 10mV per C, so about 200-300mV on a room temperature Ultimaker. However, if there is no 5V on the other pin, then there will be no proper voltage on this pin.

Also, because you'll most likely have defective parts, I recommend you contact support at some point, maybe after figuring out which parts is defective so they can respond quicker. (I'm just a Ultimaker fan, but official support by email can ship replacement parts in case of defective parts. But support is always quite busy, so the less diagnosing they have to do, the quicker they can be)

[kyma5 2]

I've measured 5V at the head side of the cabel. an 200 mV between the two outer pins.

This is already my secound board, the first board had trouble with connecting, you have seen my thread.....

Do you think the small head board is dammaged? Can I try somthing else to diagnose?

Thanks for your help

kyma5

[Daid 306]

If there is 200mV on the outer pins then there could be a problem with your Arduino or your Ultimaker electronics.

The left most pin (having the 200mV) should be connected to Analogue pin 8 on the Arduino. (compared to GND) You should be able to measure the 200mV there.

Did you also replace the Arduino or only the Ultimaker electronics?

[kyma5 2]

I've replaced both, arduino and ultimaker electronics.

I've repeated the measure. Now I've got 5V between black and red and 4.5 V between yellow and red.

Should the blue light shine if the head platine gets 5 V? Or is it depending from the software status?

I've sended a mail to ultimaker support.

Thanks

[Daid 306]

The blue led should shine as soon as it gets 5V power. It even shines if only USB is connected and the main power is off.

[kyma5 2]

Oh, thanks. Then the small PCB has a problem.........I'll wait for reply from Ultimaker support.

[Daid 306]

A possible cause then could be that the D1 diode is broken. On this image:

http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/ ... icture.png

As this is a protection diode against reverse current, you could try removing it and adding a tiny wire bridge. If your soldering skills are up to it.

[kyma5 2]

I'll wait until tomorrow, looking for a reply of Ultimaker support.

to reach the diode I' ve to remove the hole head, axis and have to disassemble the headbox? Is that right?

Thanks for helping

[Daid 306]

You would have to remove the top of the printer head, which can be done without disassembling the axes or the box. You do need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the whole assembly together.

You need to remove the top plate to remove the 2 bolts that hold the PCB in place. But only remove the diode and install a wire-patch if you feel comfortable doing this. Else just wait a bit for Ultimaker support, they might have a different insight then me.

[kyma5 2]

Thanks, so I'll do it tomorrow.

soldering small things is not my problem, because I use to develop my own smd PCB's. Thats the reason why I wanted the Ultimaker: I want to develop and create my own cases for special small electronic gadgets..;-)

[kyma5 2]

Hi,

I removed the smal PCB. It is not a TC1 but a TC2. It has no diode on it. Only the LED, one resistor, one capacitor and the AD597A. I've checked the LED, it works. I've no idea how to check the AD597. But I think it's not my job.

Until now, no reply from the ultimaker support folks. :-(

[kyma5 2]

Hi,

the ultimaker folks want a log from repG. But since I had installed cura repG doesn't works anymore. I've read about this in some threads here at the forum. But I dindn't found how I can fix the problem. I want to run repG for the log.

They(ultimaker) said, that they can't support cura (not yet..)....

[greengecko 8]

Not sure, but that helped me. Set the port speed to 250000 in RepG (if you are using Linux this does not work, so you would need to downgrade your fimware) and then RepG did work (but cura no longer if you are not setting it to the slower value.).

[Daid 306]

The next release of Cura will work out of the box with the RepG firmware, due to new auto-detection of baudrate I added. I hope to release it somewhere this month.

[kyma5 2]

Hi daid,

that would be great!

[Daid 306]

I actually uploaded a release friday, but I did not announce it yet, because I wanted to test it first (I'm testing the actual version that I upload, to make sure I test what I release). But I found a critical bug that I want to fix first so I pulled the downloads. It only had 2 downloads, so I don't think anyone really has that version yet. Expect it to be released somewhere next week.

[kyma5 2]

Hi,

untill my last post I had hard times with my UM. At least I found the reason for all my problems:

The main cabel from the arduino to the extruder head made a short circuit!!!! It damaged two platines bevor I found the reason, that the red and the black wire was switched . So VCC was connected to GND and GND to VCC.

The UM support says that this spezial problem occurs only the secound time. With a new cabel, a 3. new PCB the UM connects normal.

So, if you've the same problems, check the wires at the big cabel on the small white connctor on the thermocouple PCB! yellow / red / black is the right order.

[kyma5 2]

I forgot to say, that the UM folks were very friendly and helpfull !!