Larger build volume, and not just in Z.
I want 350x350x350mm.
Larger build volume, and not just in Z.
I want 350x350x350mm.
- An improved platform. I'm ok with the glass and clips, but a more stable and wider platform would be nice.
Maybe a magnetic mount?
I'm sure adding any kind of trinket to keep the glass in place would add significant cost. Maybe just a beveled platform that the glass drops into that holds it in place, no clips or accessories needed ?
Maybe just a beveled platform that the glass drops into that holds it in place, no clips or accessories needed ?
I like that idea. I might have to print some little corners in XT and give it a try.
Improvements for the UM3, in order of preference:
1. Use the superior Olsson heater block, so we can swap nozzles easily.
2. Make the heater block and nozzle FAR more accessible for maintenance.
3. An extruder drive which straightens the filament and wipes it prior to feeding it.
4. A more slippery, slightly larger bowden tube so the filament doesn't bind up inside.
5. A more slippery and structurally strong replacement for the white plastic piece in the print head. Soooo, tire of replacing it every time it deforms.
6. A live streaming web camera, Ethernet, WiFi, and Octoprint built into the printer, so we can monitor prints on our tablets and smartphones from the couch.
There is always a way around an enclosed unit if Stratasys has a strong hold on it.
Make the front door a spare replacement part, or have a 3rd party company sell one. Problem solved
That wouldn't solve it by definition. It could be that the 3d party will be sued for infringement. It's also quite annoying that you have to buy multiple objects to have a fully functional printer.
Hi,
not sure if thread is still alive. If so, my suggestions:
- build plate auto calibration
- improved hotend: it is hard to Access. PTFE is to be changed every 4 weeks. Nozzle cannot be changed easily.
- various nozzle Diameters (Wood cannot print reliable with 0.4mm)
- the Feeder + bowden Setup is jamming very often --> dust filter could help to Keep the bowden clean. And if the f*** bowden would be low cost I would replace them periodically.
- Jamming detection would be nice, because large prints can be resumed rather than thrown away. I think there were some guys that used a computer mouse laser sensor for filament movement detection.
- it would be cool, if the Printer can send Status Messages (like "print finished", "print failed"). Via Ethernet/WLAN to the Ultimaker app. Or at least provide some contact pins to enable others to do so.
- and at least one very simple item: standby mode after print finished! Fans and lights are running all day and night, when I am not available to turn off the device.
- dual Extruders would be killer Feature, but I know you are aware of this.
Here some comments to stupid ideas?
- multicolor??? Do you also think cars should be able to fly?
- camera??? Come on guys, you can do it yourself.
(we rent Ultimaker Printers, so we have many devices and got some experience)
- the Feeder + bowden Setup is jamming very often --> dust filter could help to Keep the bowden clean. And if the f*** bowden would be low cost I would replace them periodically.
http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/bowden-tube.html
- Jamming detection would be nice, because large prints can be resumed rather than thrown away. I think there were some guys that used a computer mouse laser sensor for filament movement detection.
Yes please! Two of them. One in front of the feeder and one behind the feeder. It is redundant, but one will tell you if you filament has run out (or is about to) and the other would catch weird breaks/jams in the bowden line. Ok, maybe just one.
Unfortunately gr5 shop does not ship to europe. And even if so, it would not make the part cheaper.
Ultimaker wants 19,00 Euro excl. VAT
Unfortunately gr5 shop does not ship to europe. And even if so, it would not make the part cheaper.
Ultimaker wants 19,00 Euro excl. VAT
You can find the bowden and other parts here for europe:
http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/bowden-tube-2/
If you need to change the teflon every 4 weeks then you must be printing a lot (probably non stop with high temperatures). I change it when it's needed after something like 500 hours of printing
- improved hotend: it is hard to Access. PTFE is to be changed every 4 weeks. Nozzle cannot be changed easily.
Get an olsson block with an I2K insulator.
Things I need/want in order of importance:
1) Dual head for support
2) Robert's feeder or similar, essentially a latching mechanism
3) Olsson block or better
4) wifi or bluetooth for uploading files - hate the SD card - and preheating bed
5) automatic poweroff once the job is done
6) 300mm x 300mm print area or larger - height is less of an issue
7) Multi-head, so I can print with 0.15, 0.25, 0.4 and 0.8mm nozzles and support material in one job
8) motors on the outside
9) easily-enclosed build chamber
10) top-mounted screen with better wheel design
11) filament jam detection
Things I don't need:
1) Spool holder - I use my own
2) Camera
3) USB printing
4) Wifi remote control of everything
You can find the bowden and other parts here for europe:
http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/bowden-tube-2/
If you need to change the teflon every 4 weeks then you must be printing a lot (probably non stop with high temperatures). I change it when it's needed after something like 500 hours of printing
Thanks for the link.
4 weeks x 168h = much more than 500h
Replace that dial/button with a separate selector and button. I'm tired of pressing when I mean to turn. (Periphrial neuropathy, I can't judge how hard I'm pushing very well.)
A better feeder.
Metal hot end.
And, a non-cantilevered bed.
Not so concerned about enclosing it; We wrapped the top in a small garbage bag, and taped a transparency sheet across the front, and eliminated all the drafts.
Better feeder. There are few simple mods which are described here:
I have tested some of them and got almost 3x more extrusion speed (10mm^3/s at 210 deg)
1) Close up the gap on top the extruder - when you drop that blue clip in there (which isnt very hard to do) it so difficult to get out.
2) Make all the tiny screws on the extruder self-retaining, so that when you unscrew them they don't fall off.
3) Encase the PTFE coupler in a heat resistant material so it doesn't touch the hot metal parts, so you dont need to replace it as often. Or better yet just make it from ceramic.
I'd love to see a closed build chamber with heat (to reduce warping) and air filtration (for respiratory health).
something better than the bigbox from e3d. if you cant do that, why bother trying.
I'd love to see a closed build chamber with heat (to reduce warping) and air filtration (for respiratory health).
Closed build chamber is probably not going to happen (due to patents). Air filtration isn't needed. We had a specialised company over to measure the air quality in a room filled with 3D printers and it was well within legal ranges (assuming that you spend you entire working life there for 8 hours a day)
Closed build chamber is not all that necessary for ABS. I buy really cheap ABS off ebay, and print some large things (+15 hours prints, longest one 36 hours). In order to reduce warping, I add some geometry to hold things in place, like mouse ears and bridges, and use 20 line brims . This reduces warping considerably if not entirely mitigating it.
The greatest importance, for me anyway, is dual-head printing for supports. This will really be a game changer for me, because then I can print the kind of parts I want to design. With ABS I get near to injection quality at 0.1mm layer heights.
The next really important upgrade would be a more powerful processor that would allow for faster printing. The current one struggles with circles at speeds above 60mm/sec.
Wifi or ethernet would be nice :-)
Design it so the end user can close it up, this should be a must, nearly all other high end 3D printers are closed systems from many other brands, there must be a way otherwise no other company could have a closed system other then the patent owner or licensed to other companies.
UM3 should be a high end solution at an affordable price, this must be a door somewhere
Read through all these posts.
Lot of really great Ideas. Won't beat the duel horse into the ground.lol
One of them I really liked, the camera but I want to add to that.
Camera should be tied in with your slicer program and a filament jam sensor.
Then if something goes wrong you can rewind to the bad spot and restart.
Any of you great hackers want to take up the challenge?
Above my skill level.
Change filament in middle of print.
ED
Edited by Guest1) Close up the gap on top the extruder - when you drop that blue clip in there (which isnt very hard to do) it so difficult to get out.
2) Make all the tiny screws on the extruder self-retaining, so that when you unscrew them they don't fall off.
3) Encase the PTFE coupler in a heat resistant material so it doesn't touch the hot metal parts, so you dont need to replace it as often. Or better yet just make it from ceramic.
I think your 1 and 2 is caused by 3. And 3 is solved more or less in the + version. Buy the TFM + metal spacer kit and you won't need to change out that PTFE for a LOOONNG time.
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Maybe a magnetic mount?
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