Follow the first rule on 3D-printing - take a seat and calm down a bit...
Sounds like a very warping friendly geometry... something like a L-shape?
You betrayed nothing about the printer, the printed material, heated bed (yes/no)?
A good attempt can be to use a very large brim (20 lines or more) and mark the brim with blue tape after the first layer.
Don't give up!
sporry, i was full blown panick attack mode, i blacked out and dont remember this post at all 
it was week 3 in a row of attempting to print this part. sorted the warping by getting a mini blow torch, re-melting some of the plastic, and pushing it down into the bseboard!
the print is actually so big, i have had to sadly print with no brim :(
Hi 0235, OK it will help if you try to be more specific when oyu have a major problem. You talk about a big print but to some people a tower at .05 micron with abase of 5mm suare and a height of 200mm is big!
OK so you have now clarified I think by saying that there is no room for a brim, therefore the base is close to the size of the print bed.
Your likely problem as it is sticking on one side and not the other is you need to get your bed level spot on. Even if you think it is OK do it again!!
Then print a test cube in each of the 4 corners and make sure they all stick.
Also we cannot help very much if you do not tell us your settings.
I would suggest that your first layer should be 0.3mm layer depth; speed of 20mm/s; bed temperature of 65 degrees; all assuming you are using a normal Colorfabb filiament, ie not wood fill or something like that
IMPORTANT!! do not warm up the bed, let it get to 65 degrees and start the print. The whole bed needs to get to 65. It depends on your printer but it is likely that once the centre gets to 65 the perimeters may be 15 degrees cooler. If you do not have a digital thermometer get one. If you do then measure the perimeters and wait until they get to 65.
IMPORTANT2!! If you have a bed with a glass plate laid on top, the printer will be measuring the bed temperature not the glass temperature. To get the glass to 65 you probably want to set the bed temp to 73 or so and again you need to measure the glass temp before starting.
i have an ultimaker origonal, so no heated bed :( that will be the next upgrade i get (maybey ask for it as a birthday gift?) and the second i do, i will be happy as a pig amoung guinnie pigs with lack of warping!
Im also not sure what my settings were for that ptinr, i exported it to the SD card over three weeks ago, and have been printing many other items since then, i think a main issue with the print is i opted for "open bottom" just becuse i didnt want 5 layers, thick solid lump, which would be needed for the flat top, but still a fill desity of about 18%
on that note, why is the ultimaker + €200 more than the standard ultimaker origonal, yet the heated bed upgrade is €245!! where is this magical €45 coming from? surely it should be less, as its an upgrade for an existing customer?
however, SHE LIVES!!!!!! 
At least the project is out in hte public, behold THE model of THE British gulf war memorial! (now just to get the pieces to an actual professional to paint it, fill it, sand it, add fake grass and all sorts!
So how did you get it to stick to the bed?
So how did you get it to stick to the bed?
when it had done about 15 layers, i got a small blowtorch, re-melted the parts that had lifted slighty, and pushed it down. it left some UGLY looking gaps around the base, but that will end up getting filled in.
I think the issue was, that the Alcohol trick is fantastic, the print base was just so HUGE that when it got to one part, the alcohol had dried off too much
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
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Dustin posted a topic in Firmware,
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skint 61
Oh no 0235 you do sound pretty pi$$ed off ...Is this an unheated bed on a UMO?
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