yes another poor print quality issue

[iconicjamie 0]

i have had nothing but issues for about two months with the print quality. i have tried all different settings, i have reset the machine, i have resorted to older firm ware all in the hope to solve the issue

 

settings are standard for ABS

this example is 0.15 layer height

temps are all standard. 260 nozzle and 90 bed

any ideas

 

[chrisr 18]

The first and middle photos look like you need more retraction, or print cooler (or both) to avoid the whiskers you're getting. The last one looks like underextrusion toward the top right of your arch, which would be helped by printing more slowly.

So as a first guess I'd suggest trying; more retraction, print a little cooler and go a little more slowly ?

 

[yellowshark 153]

Hi, OK you need to give us more information so that we can help you. You mention all these problems you are having but do not say what they are. You say standard ABS settings but that means nothing to me as I do not print ABS and you do not even say what print speed you are using.

So firstly what are your problems?

Looking at the photos. The surface finish looks OK except for that under extrusion by the top of the arch. That is probably due to a bit of duff filament or to friction in the feed system. Have you checked for any filament blockage in the extruder/nozzle? Have you done an Atomic pull? Have you measured your filament to ensure to ensure the diameter is consistent along the length. Have you pulled the filament from the extruder to check its condition?

The arch does not look to bad. Did you have support – you don’t say. Nothing that a round file will not sort and print speed can affect it plus you could try .200 or .300.

The infill does not look too bad but I can see there are blobs there, albeit no impact on the final product. Maybe over extruding or going to fast, not sure.

What is you print speed, retraction settings, nozzle setting, wall width setting; infill looks >20% <40%. I am presuming no fans?

I am assuming the lift from the bed may be just one of those ABS things but is the bed clean, are you using any additive on the bed, have you very carefully check the bed levelling, and checked it again?

 

[iconicjamie 0]

printing is at 70mm/s same for infil

infil 20%

 

[stu_le_brew 42]

suggest you try a bit slower say 50mm/s or less, also that looks like a very very big brim, but maybe its part of the print ?

 

[iconicjamie 0]

the large brim is because i tent to get the parts pop off the bed. bit more surface stiction isnt going to hrt

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Hi,

Can you add your printer and your location to you profile?

For your problem, it's not really clear what you can't solve... is it the underextrusion next to the top of the arch?

Do you have the same issue with PLA?

What is the brand of filament, is it true 2.85mm ?

 

[gr5 2,224]

printing is at 70mm/s same for infil

infil 20%

 

You are just teasing us!

Or are you serious? There's a few more important settings than just 2. Temperature maybe? Bed temp? fan? layer height?

Seriously - pictures are VERY helpful but you also need to point out what it is in the picture you don't like. This part looks great - the only problem I see is in the 3rd picture where you have heavy underextrusion for a few layers. You were probably getting a tangle on the spool for those layers.

70mm/sec is fine if you are at layer height .1mm but at .2mm that is 70*.2*.4nozzle or 5.6mm^3/sec which is pushing things near the limit. You need to print ABS a little hotter than usual to print that fast. Of course at .1mm layer that's fine. Why do you make me waste my time giving you 2 answers - why not tell me the layer height?

If you want the best possible quality and you aren't in a rush I recommend .1mm layer, 25mm/sec print speed. 25mm/sec print speed improves the quality drastically. If you are in a rush to get your print then .2mm layer 35mm/sec will look much better than .1mm layer 70mm/sec.

 

[gr5 2,224]

Is that makerbot filament? I think I have the exact same color and it's makerbot brand ABS.

 

[iconicjamie 0]

You are just teasing us!

Or are you serious? There's a few more important settings than just 2. Temperature maybe? Bed temp? fan? layer height?

Seriously - pictures are VERY helpful but you also need to point out what it is in the picture you don't like. This part looks great - the only problem I see is in the 3rd picture where you have heavy underextrusion for a few layers. You were probably getting a tangle on the spool for those layers.

70mm/sec is fine if you are at layer height .1mm but at .2mm that is 70*.2*.4nozzle or 5.6mm^3/sec which is pushing things near the limit. You need to print ABS a little hotter than usual to print that fast. Of course at .1mm layer that's fine. Why do you make me waste my time giving you 2 answers - why not tell me the layer height?

If you want the best possible quality and you aren't in a rush I recommend .1mm layer, 25mm/sec print speed. 25mm/sec print speed improves the quality drastically. If you are in a rush to get your print then .2mm layer 35mm/sec will look much better than .1mm layer 70mm/sec.

 

Please be gentle with guys like us. If i am not giving you enough info then please don't be aggressive in your replys.

i am posting up the setting i know. and as mentioned the setting are all default apart from the ones i have included.

 

[iconicjamie 0]

please refer to the whole thread for additional temps but in case you cant read up here is a summary

settings are standard for ABS

this example is 0.15 layer height

temps are all standard. 260 nozzle and 90 bed

printing is at 70mm/s same for infil

infil 20%

 

[gr5 2,224]

At 70mm/sec, .15 layer height, 260C nozzle you shouldn't be getting underextrusion. But you are. This means your printer is not "as good as new" but still mostly working. I guess I would recommend you slow things down a bit - maybe 40mm/sec. Or .1mm layers. Also I recommend you put the filament on the floor - this makes a huge difference:

 

[gr5 2,224]

Regarding "default temps" those are different from printer to printer and Cura defaults change also so no one knows what "default ABS temp" is. It depends on your model number I suppose. I normally recommend 245C for ABS but for you I recommend you stick with 260C. Here's why:

There is a part in the ultimaker called the "isolator" that fails easily and when it fails it causes increased friction in the filament path and that can cause underextrusion when printing higher volumes. Many things cause friction in the path - the highest friction is the nozzle itself as cramming 5 cubic mm of filament through a .4mm nozzle is a lot of pressure and a lot of force - more than a human can keep up for more than a minute. It would be hard sweaty, heavy breathing work.

The problem with the isolator is that it is made of PTFE (teflon) which has a glass temp around 240C and starts to deform around 250 or 260C but VERY slowly. It takes dozens of hours of printing to deform it at 260C. But at 245C it can be fine for a year. Ultimaker upgraded this part approximately last March so if you got your printer before then you should definitely try to get a new isolator. And if you are still under warranty you might request a free one. You can remove it and test it by sliding filament through it and if there is high friction drill it out to at least 3mm, preferably 3.1mm. Or at least enough that the filament slides through easily (even when curved due to winding on the spool).

Your problem might not be the isolator but when you said "260C" that was the first thing I thought of "oh shit, his isolator is deformed and now he is getting underextrusion".

If you *do* drill out your isolator stick with 245C for ABS after that. But if you go to 245C now without drilling out the isolator you may get much worse underextrusion because ABS is more like toothpaste at 245C and more like honey at 260C so more likely to get underextrusion at lower temps.

The isolator is the little white part you can see just above the nozzle. google these forums for information about how to take your head apart or see photos of "bad" isolators (they tend to have a burned spot where they touch the hot heater block).

Also people are starting to sell "washers" that protect the isolator. I think you might be able to get one from swordriff (search members and send him a message) on this forum. I'm sure he'd be delighted if you contact him. Truly. He is very excited about his (well and other people's inventions but he's giving them royalties/partnership) inventions and hopes to make it his business. I'm excited about the stuff he's selling also.

 

[gr5 2,224]

Ultimaker upgraded this part approximately last March so if you got your printer before then you should definitely try to get a new isolator.

 

By the way, the new part is a glass filled PTFE part and is much better but it still deforms. It just deforms much more slowly. It's better but not as good as I think is needed to keep people from having problems. Especially people who print more than 8 hours per day (many print 20 hours a day!).

 

[tinydancer 0]

At 70mm/sec, .15 layer height, 260C nozzle you shouldn't be getting underextrusion. But you are. This means your printer is not "as good as new" but still mostly working. I guess I would recommend you slow things down a bit - maybe 40mm/sec. Or .1mm layers. Also I recommend you put the filament on the floor - this makes a huge difference:

 

Did you print that spool holder?

 

[ronniiraygun 0]

i have been having the same problem with the under extrusion or retraction issue. I don't know which.

My settings are shown below and my prints come out almost the same if not worse than the arch shown. This has been a constant issue of late.

Hotend 260 C

Bed 90 C

Flow 107 (when I bump it to 120% it clears up a little bit)

70mm/s travel

.4mm nozzle

Fan is off.

And for the guys that have to know all my settings I will keep a few to myself but the LED's are set to 25%