Jump to content

Should I even complain?


Recommended Posts

Posted · Should I even complain?

I've had an Ultimaker Original for a year and a half now and as a 3D printing novice have had an overwhelmingly positive experience with the printer. However, I'm getting to the point now where I'm wondering if there is more that I can do to improve the quality of my prints.

Most of what we print are busts of friends created using a Sense3D handheld scanner. While the stringing from these prints is not terrible there are a few issues I'm wondering if I can mitigate without significantly increasing print time.

IMG 5424


As I mentioned above the stringing is pretty minor but what I would like to remedy are the weird extrusions that seems to be more than stringing (ex. the plastic sticking out of the cheek of the figure on the right).


IMG 5423


In this view my concern has more to do with the bumps on the side of the head of the figure on the right. My assumption is that this is where the nozzle "lands" as it makes the jump from one head to the other. And, while not a big deal since it is part of the scaffold, I wonder if the stringing visible on the chin scaffold is symptomatic of the overall issue.


I've been wondering if the printer might be very slightly over extruding as I often find that the brim is harder to remove than it has been in the past. Are there some simple steps I can take to possibly mitigate these issues? Will adjusting the flow rate help with these issues? Thanks.


PRINTER: Ultimaker Original


TEMP: 210C


SPEED: 50 mm/s


TRAVEL SPEED: 150.00 mm/s


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Should I even complain?


    Welcome to the forum! Thanks for posting the print settings you use.

    Have you considered reducing the nozzle temp or playing with the retraction settings? Longer retraction should reduce strings and spikes in your print. I don't have an UM1 but I believe it should be able to print at lower temp.

    Try printing 1 or 2 small cylinder of 20-30mm wide and 5mm height with 100% infill and your current settings. Try reducing the nozzle temp as much as you can without suffering under extrusion. At 30mm/s you should be able to reduce to about 190C.

    The colder you print, the shorter retractions you will need.


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Should I even complain?

    If you're trying to maximize quality I would go a little slower. There is evidence of some ringing on your sharp corners. 30mm or 40mm/s is going to help that.

    Also lower the temperature as suggested.

    Other filaments (Pure PLA instead of the PHA) may be less stringy, and can take lower temperatures. Finding US suppliers of PLA which have as good of colors as Colorfabb is tricky though...


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Should I even complain?

    Thanks for all of the responses. This community is fantastic.

    I've slightly lowered the temp and speed (200c and 40mm/s) and 2.5 hours into a 7 hour print things seem to be a bit cleaner. I hope to have the chance soon to run a few small calibration prints and learn a little more about the temperament of my machine.

    I have had a hard time finding USA suppliers of PLA and I know ColorFabb is thought pretty highly of. I did buy some Velleman 3mm white at our local MicroCenter and within a couple of hours on the first print had a clog that took the atomic method to clear. I measured the diameter and parts were definitely as low as 2.85 but I could feel the additional resistance as it went through the bowden tube. It must just be too inconsistent to count on.

    Thanks again. All the best.


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Should I even complain?

    Now it looks like I spoke to soon. You can see in the images below that there is much more of the superfluous extrusions particularly around the scaffolding but in other places as well. There also are many more bumps on the sides of the prints that are facing each other where the nozzle moves from one figure to the other.

    IMG 5429

    IMG 5431


    What I am wondering now is what the quality of the mesh that gets imported into Cura might have on the final print? These files come from a 3D scanner and have tens of thousands of triangles, sometimes many more. Because of the imprecise nature of 3D scanning is it possible that some erroneous triangles might be partly to blame for the problems? Could optimization and reducing the number of triangles in the mesh help produce better results?

    I am continuing to make adjustments in speed and temp in the hope that I'll find the sweet spot.

    As always thanks for the help.


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Should I even complain?

    The poisson surface reconstruction will, by definition produce a watertight model without overlapping faces. This is implemented in most scanner software packages, including meshlab.

    If you don't like the 'orange skin' of the result, you can always apply a lambartian smoothing, as it preserves edges quite well.


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Should I even complain?

    Got much better results after making the following adjustments.

    - Bed leveled (still having trouble getting the first pass of the test print to stick but I'll leave that for another time)

    - 1.2mm Outer Wall

    - Moved my machine to a more sturdy surface (it was on a cart that sat slightly unevenly on casters and would rock during printing despite my best efforts.)

    One if not all of these things definitely cleared up the 'stippling' problem I was having. As for the superfluous extrusions on the scaffolding and print edges I discovered those were the result of an 'on print' support whose first layer failed to adhere so each subsequent layer's extrusion was left hanging from the nozzle until it moved to its next location, often the next support structure, where it would be deposited.

    Thanks for all the great tips, very much appreciated.


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • 🎄✨ Thingiverse Tree Ornament Challenge! ✨🎄
        We've been running a Tree Ornament Challenge with a chance to win an UltiMaker S3 or colorFabb filament.
        Design a 3D printable tree ornament and join our festive challenge on Thingiverse. 🎁✨

        📆 Submission Deadline: December 22
        🏷️Tag your designs with Holidays2023

        Click here to join and check out the over 300 other amazing designs

        How to Enter
        Design an Ornament
        Create a 3D printable tree ornament that captures the magic of the winter season. Think snowflakes, sleighs, reindeer, cozy mittens, or anything that embodies the joy of the holidays. Upload to Thingiverse
        Share your masterpiece on Thingiverse and add the tag Holidays2023. Don't forget to include a captivating description and images that showcase your design from different angles. Submit by December 22
        All entries must be submitted by December 22nd to be eligible for consideration.
          Entering a new design
        Entering an existing design
        Winning designs should:
        Be original Creations
        Your designs should be original works, avoiding the use of others' intellectual property without permission. Include STL Files
        Each submission must include at least one STL file for 3D printing. Showcase a Completed Print
        Provide at least one photograph featuring a completed print of your design. Include Documentation
        Share the creative journey! Include documentation of your design process, giving us a peek behind the scenes. For example, show a screenshot of the model in your design program. Use the Tag Holidays2023.
        Use this tag to ensure your entry is counted in the Tree Ornament Challenge. Be submitted after October 1st, 2023
        Ensure your design was uploaded to Thingiverse after October 1st, 2023. Adhere to Submission Guidelines and Terms of Service
        Make sure your submission aligns with our guidelines and Thingiverse's Terms of Service.  
        Good luck 🎉
        • 1 reply
      • S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
        (Sorry, was out of office when this released)

        This update is for...
        All UltiMaker S series  
        New features
        Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
      • Ultimaker Cura 5.6 stable released
        Cura now supports Method series printers!
        A year after the merger of Ultimaker and MakerBotQQ, we have unlocked the ability for users of our Method series printers to slice files using UltiMaker Cura. As of this release, users can find profiles for our Method and Method XL printers, as well as material profiles for ABS-R, ABS-CF, and RapidRinse. Meaning it’s now possible to use either Cura or the existing cloud-slicing software CloudPrint when printing with these printers or materials
        • 11 replies
    • Create New...