No dual extruders for now - only makes the board unnecessarily big. I didn't want to have to mess with Marlin at all, that's why I didn't change any features. My shield uses the exact same configuration as the UMO electronics, so you can use the Ultimaker standard firmware.
Hi,
just finished the newest upgrade of my Ultimaker, changed from Pololu to Watterott SilentStepSticks ....
i think it is really worth it 
Holy shit that is sweet!
And the best thing is, it is so easy ..... You just have to desolder the CFG2 resistor from the SilentSticks, Lift the Jumper from MS1 and replace the driver ....at least this Works for all Drivers except the z-Stage .... The Z-Stage uses 1/8 Steps ... this is not supported from the SilentStepSticks ..
The Last thing you have to do is to xxchange the Motor cables .... there are two twisted pairs ..... Upper and Lower ... Just remove the pairs from the connector and Exchange the pairs ...
Now everything should work ... Just more Silent
And the best thing is, it is so easy ..... You just have to desolder the CFG2 resistor from the SilentSticks, Lift the Jumper from MS1 and replace the driver ....at least this Works for all Drivers except the z-Stage .... The Z-Stage uses 1/8 Steps ... this is not supported from the SilentStepSticks ..
The Last thing you have to do is to xxchange the Motor cables .... there are two twisted pairs ..... Upper and Lower ... Just remove the pairs from the connector and Exchange the pairs ...
Now everything should work ... Just more Silent
This seems like a different approach than what was previously described in this thread (remove two pins from the stepsticks and add a jumper wire)... Care to share a photo or two of your sticks and the motor cables?
.at least this Works for all Drivers except the z-Stage .... The Z-Stage uses 1/8 Steps ... this is not supported from the SilentStepSticks ..
You can run the z stage with higher multistepping. You just have to adjust the steps per mm settings (doesn't even require a new firmware).
Maybe just a short update without pictures :
https://github.com/watterott/SilentStepStick
Here you can find the schematics with guide ... i think there is only one mode useful and this is a
16 usteps to 256 usteps Interpolation in the spreadcycle mode.
This can be reached through CFG2 open ( desolder the resistor ) and CFG1 set to GND ( Low ) ...
The original steppers are configured to ( High, High, High ) for all motors for 1/16 Steps except the Z-Stage, the Z-Stage is configured to ( High, High, Low ) for 1/8 usteps ......
That means if you remove the Jumper from MS1 .. MS1 and therefore CFG1 is set to low ....
Regarding the motor cable :
If you look at the cable you can see the following color ordering :
Blue, Red, Green, Black ....
You just have to change them to
Green, Black, Blue, red ...
And by the way ... i set the voltage reference to 1.25 Volt which should lead to about 0.88 A .... first i set it to 1.2 A ... but the steppers were running with about 70° C ... now they run with about 50° C .....
Currently i print a big, red elephant for my daughter ... it is running already 8 hours and if everything wents fine this will be a 30 h testprint .....
I think after that i will know if everything is stable
What did that cost you?
Hi Zumfab,
Each stepper driver costs 10 € ....
The Most Important ones are x and y ....
I exchanged the extruder too, but this one is still quite loud during retraction....
So ... You reduce Noise a lot if you spend 20 € ....
So .. my print failed ... but not due to the StepperDrivers .... My electronics cable was not fixed to the hot end .... so the Thermocouple cable got lifted .... wish Marlin was implemented with a PauseOnError Logic, and not with a StopOnError Logic
Here is the promised picture ... in the upper left corner is still the pololu driver for the Z-Stage, all other stepper drivers are SilentStepSticks .....
The CFG Resistor is on the bottom side of the drivers but you can see the cable connection and the jumpers
Enjoy
Hi Zumfab,
Each stepper driver costs 10 € ....
The Most Important ones are x and y ....
I exchanged the extruder too, but this one is still quite loud during retraction....
So ... You reduce Noise a lot if you spend 20 € ....
Yes and no. Yes, x and y axis are important but (no) don't underestimate the extruder motor(s). Just unhook it during a print and you will hear the difference.
Yes and no. Yes, x and y axis are important but (no) don't underestimate the extruder motor(s). Just unhook it during a print and you will hear the difference.
Just decoupling the feeder from the chassis makes a huge difference. IME, the silentstep stick did not make a huge difference in the sound of retractions, but decoupling the feeder from the chassis did.
By the way, the cfg pins recognise three states, not just one! "Open" is a state, too. If you want to set one of the cfg pins to GND, then you have to tie it to GND.
Watterott was really fast to restock on the silent stepsticks... The chips only just released last week... I got mine last thursday, no chance to put my boards together yet. Maybe today or tomorrow...
I didn't notice this when I first converted to the silent drivers.
MS1 on all driver sockets is grounded using a 100K resistor. When there is no jumper installed this pin is GND. When there is a jumper, it is at 5V. This is contrary to the other two, MS2 and MS3. When they don't have a jumper, they are open. With a jumper they are 5V.
So I think it's much simpliler than we have been on about. Solder in the full header and remove all jumpers and stab them in. This should result in CFG1 being grounded and CFG2 being open.
Based on the schematic, CFG3 is not connected unless you bridge the solder pads.
That clip about the improvements is amazing. I needed to watch it again, because I couldn't figure out how much of a difference it made with a printer running here 
Also found this on the forum:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4479-sound-dampening-ultimaker-original/?p=102240
I have just come across this topic and find it very interesting although most of it might as well be in another language 
It seems everyone here is implementing this on there UM0's but can this be installed onto a UM2 with any benefit?
I don't know a lot about electronics but if it can be done it could be a fun project.
With sufficient effort, it could be done on a UM2, but it would be greatly complicated by the fact that the UM2 does not have sockets for swapping out the stepper motor drivers.
With sufficient effort, it could be done on a UM2, but it would be greatly complicated by the fact that the UM2 does not have sockets for swapping out the stepper motor drivers.
That always seemed illogical to me. Burnt out stepper drivers are not a rarity, though maybe the UM2 has other protections in place I do not know abouit.
Oh Well, it would have been a cool addition. to bad you can't just solder on a filter or something. Thanks Anyways
That always seemed illogical to me. Burnt out stepper drivers are not a rarity, though maybe the UM2 has other protections in place I do not know abouit.
It helps that the UM2 board has digital current control and that the larger ground plane provides better cooling for the drivers.
It helps that the UM2 board has digital current control and that the larger ground plane provides better cooling for the drivers.
True - the Pololu design ist just bad. That's why the drivers burn in the first place. There is also the possibility of an ESD event damaging the drivers. With simple measures this can be prevented, too.
I opted for a modular design with separate stepper drivers because dividing up the PCBs makes them cheaper. One large 4-layer PCB is EXPENSIVE :-/
Just finished installing a RUMBA board in my (now very hacked) UMO, and put in 4 SilentStepSticks in the same go...
Noise is so much lower than anything I have seen before (I have tried DRV8825 sticks with double steps/mm. as well)
I filmed a homing sequence with my iPad, but the video is too large to upload here on the forum, and I cant be bothered compressing it right now, so here is a dropbox link instead:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gd2trsmvwwszaka/2015-04-12%2016.42.44.mov?dl=0
One thing:
When finished homing and the steppers are idle, they make a slight whining sound, like they are still holding current and about to do a step or something... It goes away if I select the "disable steppers" option on my Smart Controller...
Also if you turn off the printer while they are whining you can hear sort of a "phew" sound...
Anyone knows what this means and how to get rid of it? Adjust stepstick current maybe?
(All 4 stepsticks currently measure around 1.2V/1.68A)
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So no dual extruders? Also, IMO the 2 non-PWM fan outputs should be at least be controlled so the firmware can turn them off and on as required.
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