Company update

[ultiarjan 1,223]

No drawbacks for me.... just the best upgrade ever (next to a better feeder).

It may not be the cheapest..... but changing an original UM2 nozzle will many times kill a pt100 or heater.... appart from being a pain to replace these you'll earn it back many times....

And I love using the 0.6 nozzle...

[swordriff 119]

There is one hangup with the Olsson Block I know of, maybe @labern has it in mind: Since it is deeper in the shadow of the fans, when they suddenly come on you risk getting the heater error and aborting the current print.

The fix is to never let the fans com on full blast suddenly, but gradually.

This is accomplished in settings in Cura.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

There is one hangup with the Olsson Block I know of, maybe @labern has it in mind: Since it is deeper in the shadow of the fans, when they suddenly come on you risk getting the heater error and aborting the current print.

The fix is to never let the fans com on full blast suddenly, but gradually.

This is accomplished in settings in Cura.

 

I see. I never had that problem. I'm still using the original fan shroud. I've put some ceramic tape in between the Olsson block and the fan shroud in order to avoid thermal contact. Could it be that those heater errors rather come from touching heater blocks?

[swordriff 119]

When Block touches fan shroud problems are much more severe... unable to reach temperature..

[Labern 774]

Yes I was mainly talking about the issues people have with the fan shroud. I have had some issues with the longer heat zone that I didn't have before on some prints.

[swordriff 119]

I agree ! the longer heat zone is not an advantage when printing slowly, can be compensated somewhat with a lower temperature! But it helps printing quicker!

[Labern 774]

But it helps printing quicker!

 

Yes this is one of the advantages that makes up for any cons.

[patrick181 0]

I appreciate the heads up from Ultimaker.  However when I look at this print head I see a design decision being made to market towards a dual extrusion setup vs optimized cooling for a single setup.  There is no apex of flow here therefore, to me, makes a lower quality result than what is possible. That is against the mantra Ultimaker is bringing with upper tier results out-of-the-box. At this price point I think a revision of the fan mount is in order to compensate for the decision that has been made not to carry on with dual extrusion.

A retooling of the bends in the current plate steel fan mount should work and I hope this is considered before a v3 is announced.

My2c

 

If you shut the door on dual extrusion for UM2, also consider a minor redesign of the head to make it symetrical. Currently users have a less optimal airflow caused by the "design for dual extrusion". Would only be fair at least for new customers, certainly for GO and EXTENDED.

I would not mind paying a few euros for this simple modification.

 

 

...

My next question is - would UM re-design the printhead of UM2 to allow better cooling, among the rest?

 

Edited August 18, 2015 by Guest

[SandervG 1,521]

Hi @UltiBeet, thank you for your messages. My apologies for the lack of response.

Don't know if someone gave you a heads up, or if you guessed but I was indeed out on a holiday for 3 weeks and visited Fab11 in Boston, a gathering of FabLabs. All combined this gave me limited time to check up on the forums, leading to a lot of notifications. I am afraid for some reason I have missed this one. My apologies for the inconvenience.

I would still like to offer my / our help. Could you send me a DM with your email so we can contact you? Depending on some details regarding your Ultimaker and order we could look into replacing those parts for you, or work towards a different solution.

[ultibeet 1]

i recieved the nozzle, thanks for the help. There is nothing to complain about the ultimaker support any more!

[LonderJan 1]

Information on European warranty legislation: http://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/shopping/shopping-abroad/guarantees/index_en.htm

[CaseyScalf 1]

This is what I heard (no offense)

blah blah blah

NO DUAL EXTRUSION

blah blah blah

blah blah blah

I guess I have mud on my face for all the clients that have come to the shop (several of which have gone on to buy their own UM2's) Cuz I'm sitting here telling them "Oh yeah dual extrusion is coming out first quarter of March".

I could go on for pages...

Just upset is all

 

Totally the truth! I have recommended this a few times on the merit of dual extrusion and was very disappointed. Whether or not the Ultimaker is the best printer, I will never support, buy, recommend, or tag in social media their products under any circumstances due to this experience. Especially seeing how there are 5 nozzle water cooled variants for nearly the same initial price I paid: http://www.ordsolutions.com/

[jonnybischof 60]

You can't really compare prices with RepRap-class 3D printers. There are 3000$ printers that work worse than other printers that you can get for 300$. Hell, half the printers out there don't work at all...

Ultimaker decided to ditch dual-extrusion because they didn't want to disappoint their customers with a product that gives more trouble than good results.

Yeah, the problem is that in doing so they disappointed their customers anyways

It is a fact that dual-extrusion is problematic - especially for unexperienced users - to handle. Don't believe the manufacturer's pictures of perfect dual-extrusion prints. These are often not even real photos but 3D-renderings, or have been photoshopped to oblivion. Or - simpler than that - just not printed on one of the machines they're selling but on a professional one!

I have seen very good dual-extrusion prints here in the forums. But the people who printed these are proficient with their machines, and most of them had to work hard to achieve these results.

The best solution imho is the tool-changing feature foehnsturm showed in the mods section. But generating the G-Code for this is not that simple. Definitely no "simple, user friendly experience" anymore.

[niyoki 21]

Vertex 3D Printer form Velleman (K8400)

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[IRobertI 520]

The elephant and wrist band are dual extrusion. The gear thingy in the back is printed in several pieces for sure. The spinny thing in the lower left could be dual extrusion but I don't see why you would print something like that in one part due to all the support that would be needed. Much better to print in two parts and glue.

Regardless, what it comes down to is simply that Ultimaker didn't want to put their name on the product in the state it was in. It didn't live up to their standards for a few different reasons. Simple as that. It's not like they didn't want to get it out there, trust me.

[niyoki 21]

Yes you are right. But don't you mean wrist band printed good enough. I forgot to tell I used for like this prints Repetier Host with Cura slicing engine. I thought having two different colors ready to use on the same machine is nice option. Beside this some print projects looks nice with different colours.

[gr5 2,167]

Done on an ultimaker2 by switching filaments - no modifications to printer:

[niyoki 21]

Nice prints @gr5. Is there any tutorial. Or it is something for gcode guru's?

[IRobertI 520]

Those are a bit deceiving. There's just a single layer of red in there. He prints one slightly thinner layer of red to make the letter. Then he prints the rest in white on top of the red. So it only works on the bottom layer and you need a colour that is very opaque even when thin.

[stu_le_brew 42]

@IRobertI you are correct of course but this trick works better when the background (white in this case) is printed with the letters subtracted from background and then print using "z hop with retraction", otherwise the letters can be smuged at the edges

its very impressive I think @gr5 - also see my example below

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/1675-andy-s-screw-box

Edited December 30, 2015 by Guest

[niyoki 21]

I want to upgrade to dual head. I'm using Ultimaker Original+ (1 year old). Do I need something special for Dual Head Upgrade Kit (I know it is for Original only). I saw somewhere a special PT100 not included in this kit, is the heater compatible with Original+. I want use original power supply because when I print something with two colors I do not need heated bed running. Bluetape worked with my Vertex 3d printer always (Okay for the PLA prints)

[niyoki 21]

@IRobertI you are correct of course but this trick works better when the background (white in this case) is printed with the letters subtracted from background and then print using "z hop with retraction", otherwise the letters can be smuged at the edges

its very impressive I think @gr5 - also see my example below

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/1675-andy-s-screw-box

 

Nice work @stu_le_brew

[Titus 170]

I want to upgrade to dual head. I'm using Ultimaker Original+ (1 year old). Do I need something special for Dual Head Upgrade Kit (I know it is for Original only). I saw somewhere a special PT100 not included in this kit, is the heater compatible with Original+. I want use original power supply because when I print something with two colors I do not need heated bed running. Bluetape worked with my Vertex 3d printer always (Okay for the PLA prints)

 

Uhm, UMO+ has UM2 electronics. I'm not sure if that board/power supply allows for 2 UMO heaters. Do some research on the forum/ask staff on the forum/support.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

It may work with the 40W heaters of the UMO when you don't use the heated bed. Having a 40W heater (instead of the standard 25W) on the UM2 actually works.

@niyoki: You mean dual extrusion... dual head is a printer with two print heads. You should also keep in mind the dual extrusion pack for the UMO comes with a thermocouple but you need a PT100 for measuring temperature of the heater block.

[neotko 1,417]

Dual kit comes with a few extra thinks that you could resell if you have umo+

- Feeder motor stepper chip

- Thermocuple

- Thermocuple amplifier

Thinks that you need to make it work on umo+

- A new power supply (I use a 280W one)

- A pt100

If you want to diy you could just:

- Buy a feeder motor (read the sticker of the one you have and google it, pololu and other sell it)

- A printed feeder (all the info on the githubs step files)

- Nuts/bolts/spring for feeder

- A bowden tube. And one extra clip for the connection with the feeder since the um bowden comes with just one if I remember correctly)

- A hotend pack

- A pt100

- A umo+ heater

- Maybe something else I forgot...?

One important think. The dual experimental kit comes with a umo (not umo+) heater (18V). It works on umo+ but if you have two different heater the hotends will heat at different speeds since Marlin don't allows to use Different PID for each extruder).

BTW funny note. My main machine with x2 umo 18V heaters heat much faster than umo+ heaters (but needs PID tunning).

Edit: If you plan to print anything wider than the distance between nozzles, jut forget about it. That's the trick many dual machine sellers use to 'show' that theirs work. Anything wider will just make contaminated prints unless you use a different dual system (aka lift head system, magnetic changer, anything else).

Edited December 30, 2015 by Guest