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Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints


inventabuild

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Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

I'm using a dual extruder with my TAZ 4 printer, one has red ABS in it and the other black ABS. When the black ABS extruder (#2) is idle it is oozing onto the red print (see 3 pics at links below). I have Cura's "Retraction / Dual extrusion switch amount” set to 16 mm with retraction speed of 25 mm/sec and I'm using the Ooze shield. How do I eliminate this ooze that is destroying my prints? What settings do I need to change in Cura?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/130315391@N08/15779180373/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/130315391@N08/15780572213/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/130315391@N08/16214377889/in/photostream/

 

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    Hi Inventabuild,

    Are you sure it is black ABS, and not maybe burned particles of Red ABS?

    If it is black ABS, you could try enabling a wipe tower to minimize it, however the oozing of the second (idle) nozzle is a common problem for dual extrusion which may always be visible to some extend.

    Lowering the temperature so you have less molten plastic is also a good suggestion.

    Good luck!

     

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    Thanks for the suggestions. I also want to try to move the nozzle to x, y home using G1 X0 Y0 F1500 during extruder switches while I cool the previous nozzle to 60% temp as the new nozzle warms up. What is the generic variable and its formatting that I can use for extruder temp in the preSwitchExtruder window that will apply to both extruder 1 and extruder 2. Also wondering if there a list of these generic variables?

     

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    ...so basically what I'm asking is, how do I cool down the non-working extruder while the working extruder is building the print?

    I think this will also help to eliminate oozing that the Ooze shield doesn't catch .

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    Got an experimental plugin which can lower the temperature of the inactive nozzle:

    http://software.ultimaker.com/testing/

    Feel free to use it, but no garantee on how well it will work.

     

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    My best result: 25s heatup time and 155-160°C (well not with Daid's plugin but with a self-written one which works the same way... ;) )

     

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    Daid,

    Thanks for the plug-in. Trying it out now; however I would prefer to tailor it to each nozzle. For example, I like to print HIPS at 220C and Ninjaflex at 210C so I need a separate Dual Temp Extrude / Cool setting for each extruder. Is this possible?

     

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints

    Daid,

    Thanks for the plug-in. Trying it out now; however I would prefer to tailor it to each nozzle. For example, I like to print HIPS at 220C and Ninjaflex at 210C so I need a separate Dual Temp Extrude / Cool setting for each extruder. Is this possible?

    You'll have to hack the plugin, but certainly possible.

     

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints
    On 1/31/2015 at 10:06 AM, inventabuild said:

    Thanks for the suggestions. I also want to try to move the nozzle to x, y home using G1 X0 Y0 F1500 during extruder switches while I cool the previous nozzle to 60% temp as the new nozzle warms up. What is the generic variable and its formatting that I can use for extruder temp in the preSwitchExtruder window that will apply to both extruder 1 and extruder 2. Also wondering if there a list of these generic variables?

     

    Hi even i am facing a similar issue of oozing over second part due to first hot end even after switching at different temp and retraction settings, if u have figured out any solution please let me know the generic codes or any other alternative. Thanks in advance

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    Posted · Ooze From Inactive 2nd Extruder Destroying My Prints
    On 2/19/2020 at 2:08 AM, Mubha_Rocking said:

    Hi even i am facing a similar issue of oozing over second part due to first hot end even after switching at different temp and retraction settings, if u have figured out any solution please let me know the generic codes or any other alternative. Thanks in advance

    It' been a while since I worked on a solution for my original post (2015?).

     

    The last solution I remember trying is to make sure the old nozzle is wiped good on a purge pillar that is generated by the slicer and printed using the two nozzles.  I never finished fully testing this solution (see my current state below).  I did not like having to deal with setting the x y offsets with test prints and leveling the two nozzles against each other in the z whenever I removed / swapped extruders / hot ends.  There are now automated systems to handle this, but in 2015 my printer did not have this automation.

     

    If you can build a silicone wiper and bolt it off to the side where the previous nozzle can travel and be wiped that might be a good solution.  At the time my printer didn't have enough space for this on the x-axis so I never got to try out this option.

     

    I'm currently using multi-color single nozzle designs which can have the drawback of printing large purge blocks to clean out the old color depending on the print of course.  Some prints will have small purge blocks which makes it a good solution.  I'm going to start purging the old color off the side of the bed and wipe w/ a silicone wiper bolted to my x-axis as the nozzle returns to the print to speed up this process and reduce filament waste.  I'll have to see how much better this is from a time perspective vs printing the purge block needed w/ single nozzle designs and how it compares to the two nozzle option.

     

    I think the latest two nozzle Ultimaker solution is designed to eliminate previous nozzle ooze on a print by lifting it out of the way.  This is probably the most elegant solution, but it's an expensive option for many like myself.

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