Thanks, im just trying the best i can, i cant do much better unfortunately, the printer says no, lol. ive yet to work with smaller nozzles but i hate waiting for prints. ive also noticed more cooling issues during multiple prints because of retractions which forced me to raise the temps by 7 degrees.
my over-extruded pineapples....
.jpg.d1fe40f9de448332e277bde0c8c09b89.jpg)
1
Awesome prints - they look so waxy. The Bronze one with verdigris is just a mind-blower.
Always wanted to print a gun, now i have! mini desert eagle. the first time i saw this gun was in robocop when it was given to a bloke to shoot ed209. Loved the look of it, even as a child, lol.
Desert Eagle on Resident Evil for Playstation was a beast of a gun
was trying a chem bath, and realized weird diagonal lines on my latest print. these are my mystery lines I get and have no idea what causes them. Im assuming there is a very slight curve on the model causing a step even on the barrel, otherwise I have no clue as the top should be perfectly smooth and flat as it was printed flat? will try again as usual.
It may be bad topology as there is a lot of intersecting geometry, which complicates things.
My theory is gremlins, for what it's worth.
and realized weird diagonal lines on my latest print. these are my mystery lines I get and have no idea what causes them. Im assuming there is a very slight curve on the model causing a step even on the barrel, otherwise I have no clue as the top should be perfectly smooth and flat as it was printed flat? will try again as usual.
I think if the gun is thinner at the top (barrel) then it would make sense that when laid flat on the print bed you would see these layer-steps, since the pommel is thicker than the barrel and the tip of the barrel is probably thinner that the back end.
Im on a holiday right now, lol. Ill take a look at that model when i get back, the barrel is the thing that appears larger rather than rhe handle, but ill just snap all the top verts to get them level, and if that wont work then it might have been exporting at a slight angle or something. Eitherway, its the first time ive got layering on the top surface so im pretty sure its the model
OK, last post here on this topic, I'm laying this to rest once and for all. I'm done experimenting.
recently I was printing a friends face sculpt I made, and i tore it off too quick and ripped it in half, so had to print it again, but thought it would be a good comparison to show the exact same model printed with the exact same settings but smoothed with my current technique, no dipping. regular colorfabb pla as usual. funnily enough I still get people telling me on my videos that i'm not using pure pla but im not going there...... i never said i was. ill say it again for the last time just for the clueless. its sold as pla/pha, i shorten it to pla as that is the same temperature range that all pla generally uses as opposed to abs or whatever. take it up with colorfabb if you have a problem with the term PLA.
the bottom and inside
and plated...
for the pla critics.... sorry couldn't help myself. 
my only real remaining issue now are the stepper lines illustrated below, but fingers crossed there's a fix coming from some smart folks that wont require me to solder earthed wires for the steppers.....they aren't that bad but it would be better without them if possible......
......thats all folks.
2
Hello Cloakfiend,
Out of curiosity: have you ever tried filling your artwork with glued sand or little stones? (The sort of very small stones that they also use in modern composite floors, I don't know the correct English name.) This will add weight and improve mechanical stability. And a heavy piece of art feels more valuable than a lightweight one.
A dry mix of composite glue and rough sand or small stones would be best, I think, just like they do on floors. This stays in place easily, and does not heat up when curing. (Don't use pure liquid composite glue alone, this gets extremely hot: I have had plastic cups melting, and on large pieces it may even burst in flames or explode due to huge internal stresses...)
Of course, you would need to do the aceton-smoothing first, before filling, otherwise aceton may get trapped inside and cause all sorts of damage. And then co the painting after the filling.
if i was selling my models to joe public then i would fill them for weights sake if requested, as being light they fall over very easily and are not very good in terms of mechanical strength, (even though most of my work is not mechanical in nature). the benefit of them being light is that they are very cheap to send by post to clients who dont require them to have any weight. i have a website but its not public yet, (only people who know me) and i offer a wide range of services. and yes i offer filling as one. but it adds to postage costs for obvious reasons. resin is no good indeed due to the thermal nature of it, especially with thin walls! melty time! im still experimentig with various things to put inside even just plain glues, it doesnt really matter i guess. but my model broke when i was taking it off the bed, not after!
A friend of mine printed some bronze fill in the form of Nefertiti's head. He filled that with salt after pausing the print very near the top of her hat.
We took it to some 3d print shows and the amount of people that thought it had been printed in bronze before we told them was quite eye-opening.
Not sure how salt reacts to all the processes you may put these models through?
Any soluble items would react badly to the acetone if it ever touched them, (even the vapour), but you must also remember that the acetone actually shrinks your model a tiny bit so it may even crack or bulge. I haven't extensively tested these various stages of adding things, as if I do, then its after the acetone, and I drill a small hole, fill it up, seal it, fill it, paint it and coat it. Most people who don't know how 3d printers actually work, don't understand how they are printed anyways, lol! I imagine bronze fill just blowing their minds even further!
Yeah that sounds like the best way.
Off topic, do you ever pause at height or sink into build plate.
I'm attempting to print some architectural models with overhangs etc, so printing in three parts is the way forward I believe to avoid lots of support being used.
The model is about 35 mm tall.
-----------
This is section 1
-----------
this is section 2
------------------
This is section 3
--------------------
So first I printed section 1 by sinking the model to the bottom of that section. It was 10.3 mm. No problem there.
Now I am printing section 3 and am simply using the pause at height function. Again, pretty simple.
But when I look forward to printing section 2 that is where my head shrinks a bit.
If I minus off section 1 the height of the model is 24.189 so that would be my pause point. But I now have to sink the model into the build-plate by the height of section 3. Will the printer recognise the new height of the model or will it understand to pause at 24.189 of the whole model and not the new section with the cut-off bottom?
When I sink it into the bed plate, the scale height of the model doesn't change so I'm thinking if I "pause at layer height" it will refer to the height of the model before I sunk it.
Hope that makes sense.
When I sink it into the bed plate, the scale height of the model doesn't change so I'm thinking if I "pause at layer height" it will refer to the height of the model before I sunk it.
Hope that makes sense.
To check it, open the gcode in a text editor and search for "pause" then see what layer that is happening at. These will be comments in the gcode preceded by a semicolon.
Say the model is in three equal parts and the height is 150mm
The base section you pause at 50mm; job done.
The roof section you sink it by 100mm; job done.
The middle section you either sink it by 50mm leaving a 100mm model. Do you then pause at 50mm and hope the machine recognises the fact you've sunk it in.
Or does the machine still have a 150mm model on the build-plate therefore you have to pause at a height of 100mm?
Think that's a bit clearer.
Sorry Peter I wrote that second bit without seeing your reply, cheers
Hi @Franny500 not exactly sure what you mean as for some reason i don't see any pictures, but i only sink models in if im lazy with the base. I always slice models in max or maya if i'm doing parts. that way i can angle them to my favour. Its always easier if you are in control of the splitting, or anything else for that matter!
All of my busts are sunken in, but i try to print everything in one if i can as i hate gluing and filling after. Especially if i'm acetoning them. I also normally use superglue as its unaffected by acetone if that helps?
...oh i forgot to mention that i never under any circumstances normally pause when doing a standard print. Thats a big nono for me.
Edited by GuestHI,
Awesome thread!
Some of your finished prints are stunning. I've started experimenting with actetone dipping thanks to this thread, and honestly with a little sanding I'm blown away at the results!
Really appreciate you sharing some of your knowledge, it has significantly improved our finished results.
Thanks!
Keep posting prints 
Hi @Tim_bc, do you also use PLA or a different material? What PLA have you used because AFAIK not all were suited for acetone dipping. In fact, I thought most PLA's weren't.
The pictures are my awe inspiring attempt at Banksy art
Here it is again in case you missed it
-----------
This is section 1
-----------
this is section 2
------------------
This is section 3
--------------------
I think maybe you forgot to add some links.. or pictures..
If not.. this is not the most inspiring work from Banksy that I've seen 
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
.thumb.jpeg.0b7a05eafc09add17b8338efde5852e9.jpeg)
Dustin posted a topic in Firmware,
Recommended Posts
nilrog 103
I just wanted to say that I'm really amazed with what you are producing with your printer that you have showed us in this thread
Link to post
Share on other sites