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Acetone Finishing on PLA

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

About 3DSolex: They write about a 6 month guarante for the TF2K couplers

(http://3dsolex.com/teflon-replacements)

and just in the next sentence tell you "no guarantee".

Sadly I can't find any "contact" or "about us" with an email address on their site.

So I can't ask.

They don't even tell you what country/continent 3DSolex is located in.

 

Yes 6 months guarantee for TF2K so that's a TFT coupler and an I2K washer.

The no guarantee part refers to TFT used alone. It sustains 255°c but there's no guarantee on how long it will actually last, this depends on temperature, filaments etc...

3DSolex is located in Norway, you can get active support with the flagship stores ;)

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Here is my anime face i drew from a comic, bottom teeth were near the end so were slightly melted (from the nozzle, not the acetone)... maybe should have left it in a bit longer too.

IMG_8956.thumb.JPG.6a5209438b7d36aa55432bf1e808372e.JPG

now plating....

IMG_8956.thumb.JPG.6a5209438b7d36aa55432bf1e808372e.JPG

Edited by Guest

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

here's my new acetoned and copperplated shroud designed by mr labern to cover me till the new one comes out, been meaning to print this for a while, but didn't want to leave it in plastic due to warping over time, this copper plate is like a reinforcement. no idea if it will, work, but we'll soon see.....

IMG_8966.thumb.JPG.2a3ac757cc2ae26242496c851a8caf16.JPG

IMG_8966.thumb.JPG.2a3ac757cc2ae26242496c851a8caf16.JPG

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

here's my new acetoned and copperplated shroud designed by mr labern to cover me till the new one comes out, been meaning to print this for a while, but didn't want to leave it in plastic due to warping over time, this copper plate is like a reinforcement. no idea if it will, work, but we'll soon see.....

IMG_8966.thumb.JPG.2a3ac757cc2ae26242496c851a8caf16.JPG

 

Love your latest work, especially all this gorgeous copper plating. I doubt the copper plating will add even a gram of structural support to your shroud since the metal is so thin, so much thinner than silver foil.

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

before i curl up into a ball and die, i have to correct you that im not doing your regular plating, most of my plates are about 100-200 microns and are far thicker than foil. more like thin metal and is very rigid so it does add tons of structural support. dont forget im still learning here but the plate is real thick in terms of plating. if it was thin i simply would not be able to sand it, period! and i love distressed copper more than neat copper.

but seeing as i have now demolished my um2 it will be a while till i post here again....

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

before i curl up into a ball and die, i have to correct you that im not doing your regular plating, most of my plates are about 100-200 microns and are far thicker than foil. more like thin metal and is very rigid so it does add tons of structural support. dont forget im still learning here but the plate is real thick in terms of plating. if it was thin i simply would not be able to sand it, period! and i love distressed copper more than neat copper.

but seeing as i have now demolished my um2 it will be a while till i post here again....

 

Nooooo, how have you demolished the UM2?

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Noooo don't get the fuego ignited again. @Cloakfiend finally calmed down ;)

There were difficulties getting the cartridge heater out, and the PT100 I believe, but from the latter a spare one was at hand. I believe we were waiting at the spare parts to arrive to revive the precious Ultimaker.

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

OK haven't posted here in a while, as ive been testing the um2 with the ob. out one of my prints cracked after acetoning which meant it was weaker, the other just done now held up, in um trans green (old um filament never cracked on me though so ill try the red out and see.)

been doing a lot of front cover remake sculpts in zbrush to practice, harder than i thought, the twisted body position was a nightmare to match on the worm thing.no teeth, lol, still thinking how best to do the as they are so tiny. Perspective and camera angle is almost impossible to match as its from a drawing. it serves its purpose.

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Edited by Guest
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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

went to a gallery in london, liked one of the stone statues above the door...so now if i ever want one, lol.

5a33187318357_Comp1(0-00-00-00).thumb.jpg.746feb2fed3d7ccda9673337594f23be.jpg

this was printed with over-extrusion which enables better overhangs and a quicker print but i feel the quality might be suffering in a few areas, unless cura is behaviour weirdly from my expert settings. i have it on type b subtraction, but that tends to throw flat planes in between faces on occasion? no idea why?

5a33187318357_Comp1(0-00-00-00).thumb.jpg.746feb2fed3d7ccda9673337594f23be.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

How does over extrusion enable better overhangs?

In general a high resolution ensures better overhangs.

If you look at this image extruding more doesn't sound like it would make sense. overhangs.thumb.png.8c3ed40857ff4ade3c2d53a424936547.png

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Im not lowering my resolution, merely pushing more filament through which creates 2 shells instead of three (due to the 0.6 false nozzle setting), hence the faster prints (at nearly the same quality and the same speed).

I dont understand either, but to tell you the truth it could work with no overextrusion as well, its just that im noticing the steep inclines look a lot cleaner than they did before, it could be just because ive tweaked my fan, but bridging is definitely better, again could just be my new fan setup with the ob, but i can easily bridge across 4-6cm without any sagging. Now while this may not be an issue for many, ive never seen that kind of bridgeing on my um2 before.

Over extruding means that i just print quicker, but suffer worse quality on flat suff on the x/y plane due to the edges no quite touching but its invisible on the z. a 12 hour print would get done in 7 hours with little to no loss of exterior quality. and for me that is a big plus if im printing in 0.04! its almost twice as fast without actually speeding up the head, obviously its only doing 2 shell lines instead of 3 with the 0.6 setting, but i really dont mind, if i use walls 0.8 in cura, I always have issues with the top/bottom, hence always using 1.2 in my settings which never lets me down, also 0.8 wobbles a touch when its filling in and that leads to more visible layer lines that are more difficult to remove.

Honestly I dont think overextrusion is improving my print (as clearly it makes no sense) but after the install of the OB bridging is a dream ( i assume its the extra material coming out) and overhangs are much improved even 70-degrees inclines seem good. Im still using the 25W heater and original fan shroud that i bent to change the airflow.

Edited by Guest

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

So you have the same resolution but have it set to 0.6 nozzle while you actually have a 0.4 nozzle?

4-6cm is pretty impressive! Did you end up using your coated fanshroud or did you bend the original shroud a little bit? Edit; oh just read you use the original one. Care to share a pic on how you bent it?

'Over extruding means that i just print quicker, but suffer worse quality on flat suff on the x/y plane due to the edges no quite touching but its invisible on the z.'

On your previous post you said your print cracked, could have something to do with this?

Maybe the walls/shells are not fully touching either?

In the end, I have heard you say it many times; if it works for you.. it works! ;)

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Nothing has cracked, and the sculpt face i did in the 3d prints section was printed like this. The ONLY thing to suffer is the xy plane area. everything else seems great. you could already see the bridging from the face pics i posted in the ob thread. dutch orange would not make for good bridging due to the consistency. Blue is great as it TR red (all colorfabb btw).

I notice the bridging as i always print hollow and in 0.04 so large areas now such as tops of cubes are not a problem if no weight will be put on them, but then again i can always fill them up with resin or something to make them solid.

And YES if it works for you, keep on keeping on....

Im not going to tinker for a while now, the new fan shroud and feeder can wait, as far as im concerned it only benefits people who print on the roll, and i don't so why disassemble my printer again?

Edited by Guest

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

OK well i got my ethyl acetate today, and im quite impressed, its basically like acetone, maybe a touch stronger, but the advantage is that it doesnt go cold and it doesnt go as white. its a matte finish just like acetone, but im sure you could buff it up touch... more testing will continue, as well as acetone and ethyl mix ratios. ill try 50/50 and go from there. it may not warp either, so thats something worth investigating.

20160220_121147.thumb.jpg.deb3169d1199b68dd66f7f913d8e7105.jpg

20160220_121055.thumb.jpg.dd7b0beb312588aed77eeeb07a73b70b.jpg

Edit. It still goes a bit white depending on the filament, and colder the more you use, i just brushed it on, and will try with lower reses just to see if it is stronger than acetone, as im not so sure. The bottle i bought it in leaked in the mail, which was not good, ill need to find an alternate container.

A side note is that Ethyl Acetate is filthier than Acetone which i can deal with, ethyl lingers and after breathing in for a while even going into fresh air, and back indoors even with no ethyl acetate present then you can still smell it. Its dirty. I may just stick to longer acetone dips even though the longer you dip acetone for the more chance you have of it cracking due to the temp changes of it cooling, and also due to subtle hole that the acetone may creep in over time.

Brushing on acetone and ethyl acetate has far less effect than a dip, even though brushing on can deliver quite good results if applied correctly.

20160220_121147.thumb.jpg.deb3169d1199b68dd66f7f913d8e7105.jpg

20160220_121055.thumb.jpg.dd7b0beb312588aed77eeeb07a73b70b.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

i think overextrusion is ok if the support is big, but with a new print only supported by its neck, layer lines seem more visible due to wobbling or the overextrusion, or a busted print head, or an atomic pull is needed at long last lol? or simply ethyl acetate is not as good as acetone.... more testing is needed.

20160222_211158.thumb.jpg.f1bfaf7742dd7df2efb971b12d5bcc62.jpg

I hope its not the slight wobble on my printhead since the shroud smashed into the motor? Im noticing some play on i think the bearings. If it is i need to sort it.

20160222_211158.thumb.jpg.f1bfaf7742dd7df2efb971b12d5bcc62.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Wow, super smooth! I applaud your smooth-skills :p

Was this printed with the questionable bearing?

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Yes funnily enough! this was printed directly after the grey painted one before it same blue filament too, and the same overextrusion that i have been playing with to save time. Im doing a black filament one now which will show exactly how much white i'm getting with my newer experimental smoothing method. And absolutely ZERO sanding as usual. Looks real nice to me and if i can reproduce this everytime, then i dont see my self moving from the UM2 anytime soon. I have a lot of detail in the model too such as beard hairs and sharp edges around the eyelids and such which also survived the smoothing process unlike any vapour method i've seen. I hope that the bearing hold up, but only time will tell, im putting a lot of sewing oil on the all the cross bars as it appears to help quite a lot. I have been regularly oiling them every second day or so and feel that this is essential now. I may need to lube up the main screw though as its much less green (excess lube) than my old one. I'll post the black one up when I get back.

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Ok so heres the black print. came out real nice with no whitening at all. you can see the tiny speed lines, but that is just the nature of reflective materials as i have my flash on which it brings out any details. the main thing is no print lines. i can deal with those ultra fine vertical print lines, besides im sure if i applied more smoothing it may evennget rid of them. i rushed this one as i was testing out my theory behind whitening which appears to be correct...i still have a few more tests to run before i decode which method is best for which purpose. i spent longer doing the blue one btw. this was a quick job fastest yet, maybe 7 seconds of post work.

20160224_184525.thumb.jpg.737135d9680e16a4a9230994613f2c56.jpg

i have a theory about removing those remaining ling but we'll see... it might be down to the particular filament.

20160224_184525.thumb.jpg.737135d9680e16a4a9230994613f2c56.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Posted (edited) · Acetone Finishing on PLA

Ok, i've had enough experimenting and i think ive found the best smoothing compromise without too much whitening, which I have a very bizarre way of dealing with to some extent.

here are my latest tests....

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5a3318db7f18d_20160224_223107(0-00-00-00).thumb.jpg.d2d129665985b92f6142715cb4dc3832.jpg

Edited by Guest
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Posted · Acetone Finishing on PLA

And a pineapple, the body came out perfect, but since installing the OB i have some issues with thin bits, or I just need to print two at a time to give it time to cool more. Not sure. Fingers are also a problem, i don't seem to remember having these issues before, maybe the new head and feeder upgrade will solve this....who knows....

20160228_183032.thumb.jpg.f04c2fece0e99586a49ad2db451b7f3c.jpg

20160228_183032.thumb.jpg.f04c2fece0e99586a49ad2db451b7f3c.jpg

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