Acetone Finishing on PLA

[Franny500 9]

I'm afraid that's all I got Sander :(

[SandervG 1,521]

All I got was:

'Here it is again in case you missed it

-----------

This is section 1

-----------

this is section 2

------------------

This is section 3

--------------------'

Or did I miss something?

[Franny500 9]

Peeter got it anyway

[Franny500 9]

I just wanted to show how the sections were laid out. And also wanted to show off my artistry skills

[cloakfiend 995]

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BANSKY ART ?

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[Tim_bc 2]

Hi @Tim_bc, do you also use PLA or a different material? What PLA have you used because AFAIK not all were suited for acetone dipping. In fact, I thought most PLA's weren't.

 

Hi,

Sorry for the delayed response, school has been nuts :/

I've been using ColorFabb PLA/PHA for acetone dipping like Cloakfiend demonstrated in his videos.... It seems around 30-40 seconds fully submerged is the magic number for what I've been doing so far....

That being said I have pushed it further and the models start to crack, so I think I'll be sticking with 30-40 seconds for now lol.....

Now I have to figure out what to do with an uneven glass plate. I never noticed before because my prints were generally not that large, but now I have an order for a few items where the footprint is the entire bed, and I've been going insane trying to figure out what is wrong....

Once again, sorry for the delay in responding,

Cheers,

[cloakfiend 995]

A little video I made recently.

off to test a new nozzle now.....

Edited July 5, 2016 by Guest

[SandervG 1,521]

What kind of nozzle are you going to test?

These prints look amazing!

[geert_2 557]

The finish and detail of your models is excellent, almost indistinguisable from real bronze sculptures. Really amazing.

If there is anything that could still be improved, I think it would be the modeling of the eyes. But that is rather a question of personal taste. Some people like the "blind eyes" style (=without pupils and iris), because it gives some sort of distance and abstraction (I don't know how to describe it very well in English), and it leaves more to the imagination.

Other people, including me, rather prefer more realistic eyes with clearly defined pupils and iris, to give the face a stronger expression, as if it is looking at you directly. To see what I mean, have a look at the video of Philippe Faraut, where he is sculpting in clay. Especially the video named "Crazy" has very expressive eyes, among the best that I have seen in sculpting (at least according to my taste, other people may have different tastes, of course):

http://philippefaraut.com/pages/video-clips

But I don't know if such eyes would print well in 3d, due to the overhangs? Maybe if the model would lean backwards a bit?

[neotko 1,417]

I just have 1 problem with that video. It's so cool quality, that looks like 3d renders! I mean, men, your processing and designs, are so cool that they look like 3d renders! !! I say this as a compliment!

[cloakfiend 995]

Thanks, yes i have thought about the eyes many times, but never got round to actually practicing them! I promise my next ones will have 'real' style eyes.

And the nozzle will be the ruby one! yay! unfortunately not the first anti vibration iteration :( but i'm still curious to see the different between the ob 04 and ruby 04?....

[cloakfiend 995]

@neotko don't worry they are real, lol, thanks for the compliment! renders look even cooler!!! because I can change materials easily

....a real render, lol. (just realised I never finished that ear!)

Edited July 6, 2016 by Guest

[cloakfiend 995]

Finally doing a FabLabLondon meetup about all my smoothing techniques on the 25th of this month 6-8pm for all those interested. Ill try to get more details, and post back when I do.

Slight hair change and new face dead eyes and all, lol. Just trying for maximum smoothness, this is the best I can do without hitting resins.

[SandervG 1,521]

On the 25th or 26th? I think I'll be there on the 26th!

[cloakfiend 995]

On the 25th or 26th? I think I'll be there on the 26th!

 

Im pretty sure its the 25th. You'll miss me by a day!

[geert_2 557]

Regarding the small size of this portrait, only a few fingers, the smoothness is impressive. I think you should write a manual (PDF) with your best techniques. It could become the "standard manual on smoothness" in 3D-printing, or something like that. :-)

For this item, let me guess: you have acetoned it, cleaned it a bit, and then polished it with some plastic/acryl polishing paste? But no paint, no varnish, I guess?

[cloakfiend 995]

@geert_2 did the eyes as suggested! lol.

sanding is the most time consuming part! but i didnt bother with this one as im getting models ready to present for a smoothing lecture, so the overhangs are not my priority atm.

and yes, only dutch orange, no paint, no varnish.

Edited July 14, 2016 by Guest

[gr5 2,167]

I think you should write a manual (PDF) with your best techniques.

That's what this 15 page topic is all about.  There's even videos if you look through it.

I think video is better than pdf in this case because people kind of have to see you actually do it and the number of seconds submerged and all that.  And how much you suffer from the fumes!

I believe acetone goes right through skin so if you try this at home wear gloves, do it only out doors and with fan blowing fumes away from you.

Edited July 19, 2016 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

do it only out doors and with fan blowing fumes away from you.

 

or just get yourself some decent protection... with the correct filter type... will cost less than a spool of filament...

get it at a hardware-store that sells to professionals (in the Netherlands almost always a better and cheaper option than the DIY stores like praxis & gamma)

-- the white filters are only for dust / woodworking --

Edited July 19, 2016 by Guest

[geert_2 557]

 

I think you should write a manual (PDF) with your best techniques.

That's what this 15 page topic is all about.  There's even videos if you look through it.

I think video is better than pdf in this case because people kind of have to see you actually do it and the number of seconds submerged and all that.

 

Yes, a forum like this is perfect indeed to discuss and develop things together, and to show progress and experiences. Or to get help or instructions in case of problems. But after a couple of years, these good posts tend to get hard to find back, as they sort of get "snowed under" all the new stuff. So the same questions keep popping-up over and over again.

That is why, in a separate section, good PDF-manuals and instruction videos also have their place too, in addition to the forum, I think. This allows us to easily point others to these references. Or to download them and store them in a convenient and easy to find place on our own harddisk, and use them as reference, even on places without internet connection. Or when you are in a hurry and don't have time to search all day in forums. It is easier to scroll through one known directory on your disk than through thousands of posts, in tens of different forum categories, on several different forums, where you don't remember where you once read that post that might now be usefull. Especially with a poor memory like me.

So, often I print interesting forum topics to a PDF file for future reference. Not just on this forum, but also for example on 3D-design, or on flight simulators, etc. But most forums are not set up for easy printing (they lack a good printing style sheet), so these PDF-prints often get messy: things falling off the page, too much white space left or right, huge gaps, etc.

That is why I do appreciate dedicated PDF manuals too, provided that they are designed to be easily readable on a computer. That is the idea.

[cloakfiend 995]

however good a pdf maybe now, it will be superseded later, i practically do nothing as described in this thread aside from the sanding in parts. the past two weeks have been a revelation to say the least. as i am preparing for a lecture on the 25th at fablab, and whilst preparing my material i have come across much faster methods and new products that produce just as good if not better quality results than before (especially dealing with the whitening on acetone!). this is unfortunately for those who are experimenting a non stop learning curve until resin printing become far more affordable. there is no one magic way to do it but for some strange reason i feel compelled to get the best quality i can with the materials i use at the moment and will share this in time, but thats just the way i am. Much like many people out there i initially came into this 3d printing game thinking i would be able to print ANYTHING, lol, i quickly realised that was not going to be the case so i simple set out to print whatever i could in the best possible quality i could. pdfs are harder to find in my own personal opinion and it was this forum in the first place that taught me to explore different techniques as is was evident from the start that with 3d fdm printing there was no exact way to get good results everyone had different advice, and you actually needed to understand what your printer and filament was doing in order to use it to your advantage.

Edited July 21, 2016 by Guest

[paul9 20]

Hi cloakfiend, what brand of filaments you used to make prints that you see in these video tutorials?

[Franny500 9]

This is a busy thread, hope you can help me, I have received an enquiry from someone saying

"What precisely we are looking for, is a 3D Printer which can print in a material such as,

or closely resembling, paper-pulp, with a result which resembles the material and texture

of the 'egg-box'."

Can anyone help?

[cloakfiend 995]

surely it would be easier to just make a mold?

and @paul9 i've clearly stated what filament i use like a million times read the thread or even just a few posts up.....

[SandervG 1,521]

I was also thinking about a mold.. I figured it also sounded familiar (@Cloakfiend, for you too maybe?) Here is an older post about it.